"CJ Lean" - Line the tub up with the rear crossmember? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 23 Old 01-12-2016, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
CherryCj7
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"CJ Lean" - Line the tub up with the rear crossmember?

Hey guys, so I started to mount my fiberglass tub. I cut the middle four (4) body mounts to the same size (within .0625") and plopped the body down on the frame. I looked from the back and I think I am plagued with the CJ lean. The body is straight, but the body compared to the rear cross member is not parallel (Off by about an inch). My question is, should I add an inch of body mount to the passenger side to make the tub parallel to the frame or what is the "normal" to do when installing a new body (fiberglass or steel)?

Here is a pic of what it looks like from the rear. Also, I know the gas filler location is crooked and the tail lights are questionable. I bought this tub secondhand and it is in need of some fiberglass work. Thanks for any advise guys!

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post #2 of 23 Old 01-12-2016, 11:52 AM
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I'm in the same place as you....just beginning to install a used fiberglass tub onto a jeep that I'm building. I bought the tub a long time ago, and it needed a ton of work.


Here's a thread about that...maybe it'll help you out.


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/fi...itory-1421336/


Meanwhile, I just put this tub onto the frame last weekend, so I'm in the process of fitting it, locating holes, etc. Then, it will get taken off for paint.


So...we're pretty much at the same stage.


I cut the front and rear mounts after deciding on the proper rocker panel heights, and getting level. Then, I measured the height of the "missing" mounts, and cut them, one-at-a-time. No 2 were alike.


So, if you could get your tub blocked up to where you like it, including compensating for the jeep lean, you can custom cut your rubber mounts.


This is a perfect opportunity to level the tub out....or at least compromise. You may not like the look of the gap across the rear, between the bottom of the tub, and the rear cross member.


Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

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post #3 of 23 Old 01-12-2016, 12:15 PM
jeepwhore
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Is the rear cross member the same height from the floor on both sides? If so, I doubt it's jeep lean. I'd confirm the frame side mounts are welded on symmetrically. AMC wasn't known for the tightest of quality control and if the mounts vary by +/- 1/8" on the frame it could easily translate to alot more at the very back of the jeep.

If it's not, then disregard the above and embrace the lean!

'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

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post #4 of 23 Old 01-13-2016, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
CherryCj7
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Rich, sounds like we are exactly at the same steps! So you started at the rear crossmember mounts and the front two under the firewall? That sounds like a good way to go seeing that my rear crossmember is off so much. I hate to have a leaning Jeep after the rebuild, but I think leaning is a better option than having the tub not be parallel with the crossmember. I think that would look worse in my opinion. Do you happen to have some pics from the back and front? From the front with just the tub on (No fenders/radiator). I'm definitely going to have to check out your thread! Thanks for sharing!




Jeepwhore, I definitely have the lean. I measure about an inch or so high on the passenger side compared to the drive side.
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post #5 of 23 Old 01-13-2016, 07:15 PM
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The only pictures without a radiator in are in the thread that I posted above.

If you level out the tub to compensate for the "jeep lean", and don't like the look of the gap between the tub and the rear cross member, maybe you could "camouflage it with a bolt-on bumper that covers the rear cross member.

Just bolt the overlay bumper on level. It will be mounted crooked on the cross member, but it will be parallel with the level tub. No one will see the rear cross member after that anyway...

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

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post #6 of 23 Old 01-13-2016, 09:53 PM
TMoore83
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Isn't the "jeep lean" is always to the drivers side? and its usually the whole frame and body, not just the body leaning in relation to the frame? you might have something else going on there with your body mounts on the tub...
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post #7 of 23 Old 01-14-2016, 06:06 AM
Mike Romain
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Sounds like you have tub issues. The glass sounds warped or not well made. Maybe that is why it was for sale?
That said, glass tub's as not even close to perfect shape. I had to use different height mounts all over to square mine up. I use fender washers and stainless ones as shims. There are tricks to it. For instance the mount behind the door affects how wide the door opening is at the striker point. Add a shim and the opening gets longer. Add a shim everywhere except there and the opening gets shorter. Same for the back I had to add thin, then thick shims so the rails set so the hardtop fit the windshield.
You for sure want the tub even with the frame. If it leans then, you add a lowering block to a rear spring perch.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
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post #8 of 23 Old 01-14-2016, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMoore83 View Post
Isn't the "jeep lean" is always to the drivers side? and its usually the whole frame and body, not just the body leaning in relation to the frame? you might have something else going on there with your body mounts on the tub...
Yes, the actual "Jeep Lean", that the factory addressed with a TSB, was to the drivers side. The OP has something different going on.

The Jeep Lean was caused by the passenger side frame rail being higher than the drivers side in the rear.

The factory fix was a 1/2" steel shim at the rear passenger side spring perch.

Matt


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post #9 of 23 Old 01-14-2016, 10:59 AM
SilverAnnCJ5
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I have the actual "Jeep Lean" going on. Anybody use the 1/2" shim to correct this? If so, what were the dimensions (length and width) of the block that you used. I'd like to fix this eventually. Bugs me every time I look at the back of the Jeep.
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post #10 of 23 Old 01-14-2016, 11:20 PM
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I'd level the frame on stands with the tub off then check across the frame at several points with a level, then measure diagonally between the spring hangers front to rear to determine if the body or the frame is the problem then address the problem. It isn't uncommon for a frame to end up with a twist and it's fairly easy to fix if it turns out to be the problem.
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post #11 of 23 Old 01-15-2016, 07:02 AM
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On post #20 of this...

... it shows how I analyzed and fixed my jeep lean...

Rich

For whatever reason, you'll have to click on the pics for them to show up...


EDIT: Link does not show the appropriate thread!! It keeps changing!!

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

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post #12 of 23 Old 01-15-2016, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
CherryCj7
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I'll have to go through your thread Rich, I haven't had any time this week to do anything unfortunately.... Thanks again for the help!


Matt, my rear cross member is high on the passenger side and low on the driver side like you said. Why would it not be the "CJ Lean"?
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post #13 of 23 Old 01-16-2016, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
=Matt, my rear cross member is high on the passenger side and low on the driver side like you said. Why would it not be the "CJ Lean"?
Your pic appears opposite of that.

The "Jeep Lean" causes the tub to be lower on the driver's side.

Matt


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post #14 of 23 Old 01-16-2016, 09:00 AM
Mike Romain
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The CJ lean is a spring and frame issue. It will have it with no body on. The rear cross member to the ground measurement won't be the same on either side.
You need your tub to be parallel with the frame. If it "all" leans, then you can think on a shim.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #15 of 23 Old 01-16-2016, 09:21 AM
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The lean is because the wheel well arch bend is not the same between R & L frame rail sides. The L side is "overbent".

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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