CJ Heater Box Restoration...pic heavy!! - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
rixcj
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CJ Heater Box Restoration...pic heavy!!

NOTE....The McMaster-Carr foam rubber part numbers used in this restoration are as follows:

86225K53 - 1/4" foam
86225K57 - 1" foam ....(PLEASE REMEMBER THIS INFORMATION IS LOCATED HERE!!)

Now, back to the thread...


I've started a frame-off restoration. What I've done is take all the spare components that I've had in stock, and rebuild them, so that when it comes time to do the swap, it will go quicker.

This thread is the rebuild of a spare heater box that I had.

This is what I started with...





.

Here is a NAPA '73 Blazer blower motor that I bought over a year ago, for this project...



I also bought a new heater core cheap on ebay, from a private party...



Started the teardown...



Mouse condo...





Other inside stuff...









Took the flaps out...



Bead blasted them...



The rusty metal backplate...



Blasted...



Primed and painted...



I prepped the box for painting...





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'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".

Last edited by rixcj; 03-01-2017 at 06:25 PM. Reason: I've been asked about the foam part numbers 27 times so far!
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post #2 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
rixcj
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...and painted it with NAPA Underhood Black...





I wanted to replace all the foam sealing pieces, so I bought a 24" square sheet of waterproof self adhesive poly foam, 1/4" thick. Here are some of the old pieces that I want to replace, and some others that were missing...



Here are the replacements...



...and glued to the primed and painted flaps...



I use a heat gun to warm up the metal parts so that the glue sticks well...



I also bought a piece of the same foam, 1" thick...



...to make the seal around the new blower...





Notice the hole in the housing. A rubber hose is meant to snap in there, and go into the heater box...got one from a salvage yard (free!).





These rubber cushions needed replacing, so I took some rubber I had and laid out the new ones. I didn't have a hole punch big enough, so I made a punch out of a piece stainless tube...











Two of the tabs that locate the end of the heater core had broken off, so they got hot glued back..



After comparing the original heater core to the aftermarket one, there's no comparison. The old one is much better quality, so it went to Dip's Radiator for a flush, and to check for leaks. That's the one going back in.

So, I cut a strip of foam to wrap around it...

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'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".

Last edited by rixcj; 02-21-2010 at 02:08 AM.
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post #3 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
rixcj
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Time to start re-assembly...





After the heater core and flap are in, it's time to put the sheet metal back on. There was some sort of sealant there, when I took it apart, so I put some Permatex#2 non-hardening sealer all around the lip...





It's a good idea to use some sort of sealant, because the sheet metal had gaps in it between the screws. I thought about adding a screw in between each one, but opted to push more sealant in the large spaces with my finger.

Sheet metal's back on...



My re-assembly instructions......



NOTE: FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO HAVE READ THAT A '73 BLAZER MOTOR W/AC IS THE CORRECT ONE...TAKE IT FROM ME...IT DOESN'T WORK FOR EVERYONE!!

I found out the hard way that it was wrong for me, anyway. So, I called NAPA and ordered NAPA PN 655-1039, and this was the right one.

The difference...



Moving forward, once again...



After installing this flap, I didn't like the way the top of the flap sealed, so I added a foam strip along the top edge...



Now it seals nice...if you notice, I also added some extea teflon washers onto the pivot shaft, on each side of the flap to keep it centered...



There should be some sealant when attaching the vent piece, too, but I decided to cut a piece of the 1/4" foam, and make a nice, clean seal...





...and attached...



Well, it's mostly done (I ordered a new heater core seal...not here, yet). So here are some final shots...









This baby better put out some heat!!

Rich
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'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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post #4 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 03:39 PM
Bow-hunt-er
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Great job!

1978 CJ7, AMC360, D30 front, D44 rear, lock-rite lockers front & rear, 3.73 gears, Dana 20 transfer, T-18 4speed tranny
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post #5 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 03:59 PM
Ken4444
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Fantastic work! Great photos. Let us know how it runs.
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post #6 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 04:06 PM
trebor3009
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Nicely done...the 'definitive' heater box restoration how-to. This warrants a sticky under the "CJ STICKIES THREAD (FAQs)"
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post #7 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 04:06 PM
thord
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great work and awesome write up

Thanks!!!
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post #8 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 04:47 PM
chet44
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This is great timing! In the next week or so I was going to do just what you've done. Now I've got some great pics to follow.
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post #9 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 05:24 PM
fireman72737
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Great picture thanks getting ready to do this my self.

"You can let people think you are a dumba** or open your mouth and prove it."
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post #10 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 05:25 PM
IdahoJeeper
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Wow...great job!! I did mine a couple weeks ago. I used RTV (put a bead on, spread it out, let it set up) to seal the box up and like the OP, added a bit extra to those areas that didn't seal so well. After all that effort, I didn't want ANY air escaping anywhere except the ducts.

'95 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, Auto, 225K, Forest Grn
'98 ZJ Laredo, 4.0L, Auto, 210K, White
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post #11 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 06:02 PM
Cutlass327
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I imagine y'all have heard this by now, but since RTV is acidic, it can corrode metals... The Permatex #2 seems to be a good choice, was going to use that, but I forgot it at work, so I went to Walmart and got some of that rope caulking and put a double strand around the box to seal it. When I tightened it down, I made sure there were no gaps. It was like 3/16" - 1/8" thick, so I didn't have any issue with gaps between the screws.

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


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post #12 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
rixcj
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Thanks for the kind words, guys! I take a lot of pictures for several reasons...the main one being that I need them to remember how everything goes back together!

This would definitely help people out with future restorations. I don't think many guys tear into them this deep.

I didn't plan to go this deep, but one thing leads to another... plus, I enjoy it.

Rich
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'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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post #13 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 06:11 PM
CJ Chet
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I just finished the same project. It was a real pain in the butt, but the results were spectacular! Sounds like I have a little tornado behind my dash, and it actually defrosts my windshild. My box had so many leaks and holes I'm suprised it ever worked. BTW: you would not believe the trash I pulled out of it! I have a Kentrol stainless cowl vent cover. To it I glued a piece of plastic screen, trimmed it around with a razor blade and installed it. No more trash in the heater box!

'86 CJ7
'04 AEV RUBICON
2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
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post #14 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 06:17 PM
Cutlass327
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Quote:
I have a Kentrol stainless cowl vent cover. To it I glued a piece of plastic screen, trimmed it around with a razor blade and installed it. No more trash in the heater box!
I was thinking about doing that too, just to save the crap from dropping in there..

After you resealed it all, do you still get air out the defrost when you have it on floor, and vice versa?? I think mine is only directing 70% to whichever way I put the mode selector... I even added foam to the doors to help seal..

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy


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post #15 of 368 Old 02-20-2010, 06:47 PM
_Kyle_
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I just did the same rebuild and sealed it all up like you did. I am VERY pleased with it.

-Kyle

1996 Grand Cherokee
2005 Wrangler Rocky Mountain Edition
RIP Troy (bigbluezj94)

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