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Unread Yesterday, 08:36 AM   #1
karenmascaro
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Join Date: Dec 2008
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CJ Driveshaft

Ok no it is not a true Jeep with this drivetrain but it is what is here and I am looking for an answer any help appreciated.

1986 CJ7, 4.3 Chevy with a 208 Transfer case and a 700R4 Auto Tranny, rear Driveshaft has snapped, I assume I will need to have one custom made??
Thanks
Karen

86cj1.jpg

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Unread Yesterday, 08:50 AM   #2
Mike Romain
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1986 CJ7 
 
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Looks like a Jeep from here.... I think I would find a local driveshaft builder and have a stronger one built. Unless you just blew an ear off a yoke? That can happen when a u-joint blows out. Then another of what you have in there would do with u-joints you can grease every run. I get water out of mine every time I grease it after a run.
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89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread Yesterday, 08:51 AM   #3
karenmascaro
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Thanks Mike
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Unread Yesterday, 09:10 AM   #4
dg6772
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Personally,I think I would take this opportunity (maybe) lose that 208 and put in something with a yoke for the rear driveshaft. Or a kit to convert it. As you know; lose the rear shaft and you're done....

That said....d&r driveline makes an awesome driveshaft. I've seen them in car magazines,but they are local to me. Comparable to Tom Woods? Well,I don't know about that, but reliable and reasonable. Most of all,I've never had one fail( knock, knock,knock) yet.

(616) 667-1308 is D&R's contact number,if interested.

If using a local vendor,take the time to do some research. I used one right here in town and had to keep returning it because the welder did a crappy job. Even accused us of having too much power. Ha,that CJ7 had a 258 backed by a 999 with a body lift and 33's. Too much power?? I think not!

Good luck.....

Dave in Muskegon using JeepForum
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Unread Yesterday, 09:57 AM   #5
karenmascaro
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Thanks Dave
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Unread Yesterday, 10:54 AM   #6
Cutlass327
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Also, verify that your angles are ok. If the length of the driveline makes the rear driveshaft too steep, you may be binding it up and causing issues. When I put the T177/D300 in my '5 I had issues with the yokes binding at the rear axle. I had to clearance the one yoke a little with a grinder just so I could move it without them hitting each other. I have since went to a double cardan style shaft from a XJ. Pull-a-part front driveshaft, had the local builder shorten it to the needed 15.25 inch length, and angled the rear axle as needed. No more vibrations or worries.
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

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Unread Yesterday, 11:07 AM   #7
80cj
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I've seen the drive shafts that Tatone builds. He uses very heavy duty components.
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