[silentmike29]

yeah i have the wheel puller at home, just need to get a tap and die set to retap the bolt holes for the wheel puller....then i can finally take the dash off and tackle the garbage PO(s) wiring.

[GlennLever]

Originally Posted by keith460

I'm not so sure that one measurement for the tachometer opening should be 18-3/8" from panel edge to centerline. Mine is 18" only and if it were 18-3/8" the tachometer would come in contact with the plastic gauge overlay. The other dimensions are correct and are easy to determine.

5-3/8" from bottom of dash to center of Defrost Control knob x 18" or centerline of Wiper Switch knob.

Same for the Clock, 5-3/8" from bottom of dash to center of Defrost Control knob x 7-1/2" or centerline of Headlight Switch.






Maybe someone else can verify these measurements too.

Don't know the hole sizes offhand but a little research could find them if you still need them.

I have carefully laid out the suggested centerlines for the tach and clock.

There was no questions raised on the left hole (clock), but there were questions on the right hole (tach).

I find some clues in the picture that Keith sent of his dash, although I have to take them with a grain of salt because of parallax induced in the picture. Directly above the tach is a screw which appears to be dead center of the tach.

Also both gauges appear to be centered directly above the light and wiper knobs.

If I use the 7 ½ inch measurement in for the clock that vertical centerline is not centered on the knob but about 1/8 inch outboard of the center of knob (towards the outside of the Jeep).

If I measure to the vertical and horizontal centerlines of the clock that center is 2 3/8 inches from the center of the upper left Philips screw that holds the steering column bezel.


Now.

The right side

If I use the 18 3/8 measurement supplied by DoubleD Fabrication

I find that the center of the tach is almost directly below the screw in the dash (just as in the picture that Keith provided).

If I use the 18 3/8 inch measurement in for the tach that vertical centerline is not centered on the knob but about 1/8 inch inboard of the center of knob (towards the inside of the Jeep).

If I measure to the vertical and horizontal centerlines of the tach that center is 2 3/8 inches from the center of the upper right Philips screw that holds the steering column bezel (using the 18 3/8 inch measurement).

If I use 18 inches instead of 18 and 3/8 I am off by almost 3/8 of an inch in the measurement to the Philips head screw.

I will be using the following measurements, although when it comes time to punch the hole I may center on the knobs.

Clock is 7 ½ in form the outside edge and 5 3/8 up from the bottom edge.

Tach is 18 3/8 in form the outside edge and 5 3/8 up from the bottom edge.

I have an electrician friend who will be lending me a panel punch tomorrow and If that comes through will be punching the hole at about 2:00 PM

We will know for sure than.

I will recheck my measurement before punching the holes.

When I look at the close up of my dash I realize I will someday have to go the route Keith went, remove the dash and redo it.

[BlkCJ7Laredo]

Use Keith's measurements. I've already been over this with him when I was considering a Double D dash like what you originally pictured.

I have a completely unmolested Laredo dash out in the garage but there's a little rust jacking going on between the reinforcement piece that's welded on the bottom of it so I'm not sure if I want to use it or not since the one in my Jeep has the radio hole cut out to DIN. I can measure that if you want a 3rd confirmation on locations of the holes.

[GlennLever]

Originally Posted by BlkCJ7Laredo

Use Keith's measurements. I've already been over this with him when I was considering a Double D dash like what you originally pictured.

I have a completely unmolested Laredo dash out in the garage but there's a little rust jacking going on between the reinforcement piece that's welded on the bottom of it so I'm not sure if I want to use it or not since the one in my Jeep has the radio hole cut out to DIN. I can measure that if you want a 3rd confirmation on locations of the holes.

Information is power.

If you would would you measure it up and post the measurements?

[keith460]

I think the most important measurement in any layout is the Center Line.

It makes finding distances from the edge more accurate. On our dash for the Jeep CJ, from the edge of the dash to steering column CL it is 12.75" (12-3/4"). Edge to clock CL is 7.5" (7-1/2"). CL of clock to steering column CL is 5.25" (5-1/4"). CL of steering column to tachometer CL is 5.25" (5-1/4").

Add up the distances 7.5+5.25+5.25=18" from edge of dash to CL of tachometer.




The screw locations for the dash pad are irrelevant in this matter. Its an add-on. But you can measure the distance from edge of dash to its location and find it will be 18" also. Same for the passenger side, 18" from right edge of dash panel. You know it will be centered on the dash panel because the holes are equally spaced on both the left and right side.

12.75" (12-3/4") is the key measurement in finding center lines for those two gauges, light switch, wiper switch, dash lights and plastic steering column cover.

Want to know what the Center Line measurement is from the edge of the tub to steering wheel and the seat you sit in? 13.75" (13-3/4").
You won't even need to measure that because the distance from tub edge to dash edge is 1" + 12.75" = 13.75" (13-3/4")

[GlennLever]

So as not to continue to hijack Keith's thread here I have placed my comments in a new thread that can be read at this link.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ta...found-1354467/

[BlkCJ7Laredo]

I'm going to place my replies over in the other thread.

Keith's measurements are right on the money "IF" you have the newer dash that the left and right edges aren't rolled.

If you have an earlier dash that the left and right side is rolled, when measuring from the left side you add 1/8". All other measurements remain the same.

Pictures in the other thread as well.

[GlennLever]

Originally Posted by BlkCJ7Laredo

I'm going to place my replies over in the other thread.

Keith's measurements are right on the money "IF" you have the newer dash that the left and right edges aren't rolled.

If you have an earlier dash that the left and right side is rolled, when measuring from the left side you add 1/8". All other measurements remain the same.

Pictures in the other thread as well.

That would explain some of the problems

[keith460]

For Glenn's 1984 model Jeep, I can't see it being anything but the measurements I posted. His would not have the folded edge at the ends of the dash like earlier models.

[GlennLever]

I do not know why my dash is different.

If I had drilled a 2 and 7/8 in hole 7 and 1/2 inches in and 5 and 3/8 inches up I would have hit the right upper mount for the speaker. The hole I drilled for the clock is in that location but only2 and 1/2 inches in diameter.

[BlkCJ7Laredo]

Clock hole is not 2 7/8" only the tach. The clock hole is 2 5/8" on the factory dash.

[keith460]

Originally Posted by BlkCJ7Laredo

Clock hole is not 2 7/8" only the tach. The clock hole is 2 5/8" on the factory dash.

That's correct.

[MightyLampshade]

This might make me brave enough to take apart my clock. It sure felt like a plastic face instead of glass like the other guages. Do you know of any place to find the black with white stripe lining or sorts for the clock? I suppose it could be paint but the way mine is peeling almost makes it seem like it could be a sticker?

[Daddy_Stew]

Keith,

I have really enjoyed crawling through your rebuild. Great work obviously but taking the time to document it will benefit so many others! I have a few immediate questions based on your experience. I am about to embark on a dash restoration and I have a few questions.

1. What appear to be studs above the Clock, Tach and Right Speaker Grille... what are those exactly and what are their purpose?
2. Where did you find bumpers for the Glove Box?
3. What exactly are the upgrades you've done to your heater assembly? I have a daily driver in Western PA that I want to maximize it's performance.

I have an original dash, painted & ready, but still gathering parts and walking through the layout, as I am missing a few small items. Any info you can offer would be most appreciated!

[keith460]

Originally Posted by Daddy_Stew

I have a few immediate questions based on your experience. I am about to embark on a dash restoration and I have a few questions.

1. What appear to be studs above the Clock, Tach and Right Speaker Grille... what are those exactly and what are their purpose?
2. Where did you find bumpers for the Glove Box?
3. What exactly are the upgrades you've done to your heater assembly? I have a daily driver in Western PA that I want to maximize it's performance.

I have an original dash, painted & ready, but still gathering parts and walking through the layout, as I am missing a few small items. Any info you can offer would be most appreciated!

1. I believe you are referring to the PEMS which I used to screw the dash pad to the dash panel. Factory just drilled a hole for sheet metal screws and the problem with them is the hole starts to rust and causes the paint to vein and rust underneath. PEMS are a stainless steel threaded insert (8-32) that are pressed into a specified diameter drilled hole for certain thicknesses of sheet metal. They take the place of sheet metal screws that would cause rusting and they are available from McMaster-Carr.com

2. Glove box bumpers are the originals from AMC/Jeep. They were dry so I soaked them in motor oil overnight before inserting them back in the dash panel. Oil makes them for pliable so they don't crack - learned that from an old timer who restores cars for over 50 years. You can get replacement from eBay for Chevy trucks from the 70's era - they are the same.

3. Heater assembly, again the word Chevy comes into play. Chevy Blower Motor upgrade is the only modification I have done and there are plenty of write-ups on how to do this. Blows air like a hurricane.
Good seals are also a must if you want water leak free performance. I used 3M rubber byte strips as it is soft and easy to apply. Available at NAPA.