CJ 7 with a small problem (I hope it is small) - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 16 Old 12-30-2006, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
TennesseeRunner
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CJ 7 with a small problem (I hope it is small)

Got this 84 CJ7 a few months ago want some help on a small (I hope it is a small problem)





want some help on a small problem (I hope it is a small problem)

Has a small crack (circled in red) can that be welded or what? It stopped leaking for awhile but has started again. It is a real small leak.


more of the motor anything else you see that needs to be addressed?





Plans are for this to be a run around vehicle (I have another) and moderate off-roader.

Thanks for your insight, help and ideas.
JP

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post #2 of 16 Old 12-30-2006, 07:47 PM
hfjeff
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Is the leak/crack on the block or the water pump? I can't really tell from the pics. It looks like the block.

MINE: 1995 YJ/2.5L/115K/Completely Stock
MY DAD's: 1978 CJ7/ AMC 360 .030" over/ Motorcraft 2100/ Edelbrock Performer/ Proform HEI Ignition/ Hedman Headers with dual Flowmaster 40's/ Taurus Fan/ FK-35 Control/ Painless Harness/ Rebuilt T150 & Dana 20/ 4" Lift/ 31" Procomp Mud Terrains/ All Fiberglass. (SOLD)
MY BROTHER's: 1996 ZJ Limited/5.2L/117K & Completely Stock.(SOLD)
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post #3 of 16 Old 12-30-2006, 08:15 PM
tscuda
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Clean the area good. Counter sink the hole with a drill. And putty it up with some JB Weld. But the question is how can you get a hole there?????
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post #4 of 16 Old 12-30-2006, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
TennesseeRunner
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It is in the block
it is a hair line crack that leaks water. It leaked when I first got it then stopPed for a while. I had plans of flushing and and all but I think the grime is plugging the leak. LOL

Not sure how it got there, it was there when I bought it. Looks like it has over heated or something at one time. The plastic air horn is melted along with some wire connecters.

I am also thinking of doing one of those "painless wiring harnesses"
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post #5 of 16 Old 12-30-2006, 09:08 PM
toates89
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duct tape does wonders
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post #6 of 16 Old 12-30-2006, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
TennesseeRunner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toates89
duct tape does wonders
Trust me I know - I limped out of the woods in a 79 subaru brat. If it was not for the tape I would have had to walk home.

I don't think i want to go that route on this (not yet anyway)
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post #7 of 16 Old 12-30-2006, 09:36 PM
BESRK
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How long is the crack? Depending on the size, I might be tempted to drill and tap it for a pipe plug... or maybe an expansion plug. If it's too long, then grind a "V" along it and have it brazed or fill with JB Weld. Then, I'd start looking for another engine...

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #8 of 16 Old 12-30-2006, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
TennesseeRunner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK
How long is the crack? Depending on the size, I might be tempted to drill and tap it for a pipe plug... or maybe an expansion plug. If it's too long, then grind a "V" along it and have it brazed or fill with JB Weld. Then, I'd start looking for another engine...
about an inch and a half long

no one has mentioned welding is there a reason?

why do you say start looking for a new engine?
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post #9 of 16 Old 12-30-2006, 09:45 PM
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First, be sure that is a crack and not a seeping head gasket. The only way to really "repair" it is to drill and pin it. Starting at one end of the crack, you will need to drill then brass screw it. Cut the screw off flush with the block. Continue drilling overlaping holes and adding screws till you hit clean metal(no more crack). You might check with your local machine shop. There used to be kits available to do this.
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post #10 of 16 Old 12-30-2006, 11:01 PM
molsenice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TennesseeRunner
about an inch and a half long

no one has mentioned welding is there a reason?

why do you say start looking for a new engine?

welding is possible but most folks want the block to be striped before they will work on it - usually requires pining each end of the crack and then tig welding with cast iron rod. the reason to look for a new engine is because cracks tend to grow, not get smaller. Not claiming Brazing will not work but in my opinion Brazing will most likely crack as it is very brittle and does not expand at the same rate as the block (think flexing beer can). I have attempted on several occasions to braze holes (cracks) closed on old water heaters to use them as a class project for solar energy - have never yet successfully sealed one of them god forsaken holes (but I am not a certified welder - just a shop teacher) - have seen plenty of cracked blocks successfully welded by pinning and tig welding..

Jib weld will do in the short term but it will eventually fail and that would rot if it happened back in the woods or far from help - clean the area real good first and do not be surprised if the hole gets big when ya clean it out
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post #11 of 16 Old 12-31-2006, 01:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TennesseeRunner

more of the motor anything else you see that needs to be addressed?





JP

I'd say from the state of the underneath, you've got an oil leak to have a look at to.

Mine had a crack in almost exactly the same place, which the shop didn't find until they'd nearly finished rebuilding the motor , they didn't even entertain trying to fix it as they said it would only get worse the longer they left it, so as Besrk said start looking for a new block

'86 cj7, 360 cui, msd ignition, hedman htc's and still upgrading
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post #12 of 16 Old 12-31-2006, 03:20 AM
BIGM
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Maybe its time to drop in a new engine???
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post #13 of 16 Old 12-31-2006, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
TennesseeRunner
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Thanks for all the insight.

I am thinking I will use some of that block sealer and JB weld, then drive it till something else goes. Then I will probably do a swap.
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post #14 of 16 Old 12-31-2006, 01:52 PM
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Most shops don't like to weld cast either... I'm concerned when you tap that it's going to fissure even worse.

-----------------------
I used to own two CJ's...Perhaps a 3rd is in the future?
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post #15 of 16 Old 12-31-2006, 02:18 PM
JIMMYM
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I had a crack in the same spot on my block i ran a sealer made by heartland you put 2 pellets in for ever gallon of collant after fluching it and it stopped the leak...
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