CJ-5 Shocks - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-22-2010, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
CJTravis
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1965 CJ5 
 
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CJ-5 Shocks

I'm 15 years old and have just bought a 1965 CJ-5. I was going through it and found the shocks are shot. Not sure about the lift on it currently but does anyone have any suggestions on shocks?

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post #2 of 6 Old 05-22-2010, 11:03 PM
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
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HELLO, And WELCOME!
15 years old and have a '65!
Boy, are you in for a lifetime of mental illness starting this young!
CJ Jeeps take a special kind of mental illness to start with, and the older CJ's take so much more maintinance and care than the newer ones!
-----------------------------------------

Run of the mill gas charge Monroe shocks will do you fine.

You don't have the spring on the outside of the shock on the front do you? (Coil Over Shock?)
Earlier Jeeps used a coil over the shock, but you shouldn't have one,
But you never know what a PO (Previous Owner) has swapped on there down though the years.

Take the old shocks into the store and check the new ones for proper size and ends.
Some of the books at the parts stores are wrong, so make sure the new ones are proper before you take them home and get them banged up!
(Since you are 15, that's good advice all around! Always take the old part in and compare it to the new one... You will be amazed how often the POs have swapped junk around,
And how often the parts store books are wrong!)

--------------------------------------------

Usually, the standard gas charged shocks will work fine,
Just be sure you soak the crap out of the attachment nuts and use a wire brush to clean the threads out before you try and remove the nuts...
If you don't, you stand a VERY good chance of twisting the studs off, and that is VERY BAD! Hard to find replacements,
And replacing them often involves welding.

Wire brush the threads, then use keep soaking them with penetrating oil,
Kano brand 'Areo Kroll' penetrating oil is the best I've used in 40+ years of doing this, but it's expensive and hard to find...

This stuff works GREAT, but it's expensive, so the discount stores don't carry it, you have to order it.
I don't use it all the time, but when you have REALLY RUSTED parts, it just can't be beat!

LINK: http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA




PB Blaster is pretty good, but takes MUCH longer before it works...
You can get PB Blaster at about any of the discount stores,

WD-40 as a last resort...
They sell that stuff at Wally-World, but it's slow, and it doesn't get into really rusted places like the Kroll oil does.
It's mostly for rust prevention and water displacement...

Squirt those studs/nuts down a couple of times a day for about a week before you try and take the nuts off, and that will help a bunch.

When you put the new ones on, don't mash the crap out of the rubber mount blocks!
Just snug them up, use a locking nut of some kind so it doesn't come back off and you will be fine.

Lock washers don't work very well in this situation,
A large flat washer will keep the rubber on the stud, and a lock nut is the way to go.
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post #3 of 6 Old 05-23-2010, 12:47 AM
iluvcowjuice
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When you get new shocks its good to replace the bushings at the same time. If you replace them with poly bushings which are stiffer and last longer, don't try to put them in dry, its a pain. When I did mine, my dad told me to suck on them for a few seconds, and the spit lubricates them real well so they'll go in easy.
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post #4 of 6 Old 05-23-2010, 07:08 AM
IDK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
HELLO, And WELCOME!
15 years old and have a '65!
Boy, are you in for a lifetime of mental illness starting this young!
CJ Jeeps take a special kind of mental illness to start with, and the older CJ's take so much more maintinance and care than the newer ones!
-----------------------------------------
I'm 17 and I think my CJ has given me a mental illness! Daaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

JpThang
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post #5 of 6 Old 05-23-2010, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
CJTravis
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Join Date: May 2010
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Posts: 7
Thanks a lot for the feedback. Yes, I am fully aware of the wrenching to come but very excited to start the project. I went to advanced auto and they had some monroe shocks in stock so I'll definitely do some research on them.
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post #6 of 6 Old 05-23-2010, 09:48 AM
JeepHammer
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iluvcowjuice View Post
When you get new shocks its good to replace the bushings at the same time. If you replace them with poly bushings which are stiffer and last longer, don't try to put them in dry, its a pain. When I did mine, my dad told me to suck on them for a few seconds, and the spit lubricates them real well so they'll go in easy.
"Stiffer" isn't always better.
If you intend on trail riding and not highway driving, then 'Softer' is better since the suspension can flex more for the obstacles.

As far as bushings go,
Spring bushings in rubber are usually stiffer and give better handling on the highway,

Urethane bushings are usually softer and give you more flex on the trail,
But Urethane is subject to UV damage, oil and chemical damage,
And on spring applications, they normally cut the heads off the bushings as the springs flex sideways where the factory rubber type sleeved bushings don't.

For shocks, you won't get a choice, you will have to use what comes in the kit.
A little lubrication is a good thing when you are putting the bushings in,

BUT,
I sure wouldn't suck on them!
The crap they are coated in to keep them from oxidizing in storage is some pretty nasty crap!
I don't even like getting it on my hands, I darn sure ain't going to put it in my mouth!
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