HELLO, And WELCOME!
15 years old and have a '65!
Boy, are you in for a lifetime of mental illness starting this young!
CJ Jeeps take a special kind of mental illness to start with, and the older CJ's take so much more maintinance and care than the newer ones!
Run of the mill gas charge Monroe shocks will do you fine.
You don't have the spring on the outside of the shock on the front do you? (Coil Over Shock?)
Earlier Jeeps used a coil over the shock, but you shouldn't have one,
But you never know what a PO (Previous Owner) has swapped on there down though the years.
Take the old shocks into the store and check the new ones for proper size and ends.
Some of the books at the parts stores are wrong, so make sure the new ones are proper before you take them home and get them banged up!
(Since you are 15, that's good advice all around! Always take the old part in and compare it to the new one... You will be amazed how often the POs have swapped junk around,
And how often the parts store books are wrong!)
Usually, the standard gas charged shocks will work fine,
Just be sure you soak the crap out of the attachment nuts and use a wire brush to clean the threads out before you try and remove the nuts...
If you don't, you stand a VERY good chance of twisting the studs off, and that is VERY BAD! Hard to find replacements,
And replacing them often involves welding.
Wire brush the threads, then use keep soaking them with penetrating oil,
Kano brand 'Areo Kroll' penetrating oil is the best I've used in 40+ years of doing this, but it's expensive and hard to find...
This stuff works GREAT, but it's expensive, so the discount stores don't carry it, you have to order it.
I don't use it all the time, but when you have REALLY RUSTED parts, it just can't be beat!
PB Blaster is pretty good, but takes MUCH longer before it works...
You can get PB Blaster at about any of the discount stores,
WD-40 as a last resort...
They sell that stuff at Wally-World, but it's slow, and it doesn't get into really rusted places like the Kroll oil does.
It's mostly for rust prevention and water displacement...
Squirt those studs/nuts down a couple of times a day for about a week before you try and take the nuts off, and that will help a bunch.
When you put the new ones on, don't mash the crap out of the rubber mount blocks!
Just snug them up, use a locking nut of some kind so it doesn't come back off and you will be fine.
Lock washers don't work very well in this situation,
A large flat washer will keep the rubber on the stud, and a lock nut is the way to go.