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Unread 06-14-2003, 09:44 PM   #1
cj5DOTcom
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: gulfport ms
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cj 5 rolling the rear axle back

i need every inch i can get for a driveshaft,
ive come to the point where it would be best if i
could move the axle back a couple/few inches
ive seen 4 but dont know how or what they used
to do it
does anyone know how to do this Thanks Randall

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Unread 06-14-2003, 10:41 PM   #2
OKJeepin
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Poteau, Oklahoma
Posts: 93
I removed my rear bumper, removed the rear crossmember, built a rear bumper out of 3.5" x 3.5" square tubing, mounted it to my frame rails with 1/4"x2x4" angle iron with 4 grade 8 bolts and welds on each side. I ran up the frame rails about 12" with the angle iron to make it as sturdy as I could because what your doing is extending the frame. Then I removed the fuel tank and installed a fuel cell in the bed, because when you move the axle back, the pumpkin will hit the tank unless you slide it back also.
Then you have to remove the spring hangers and move them back, I mounted my rear ones on the bumper, hence all the work on the bumper. Remember that all the weight will be riding on the bumper, so it needs to be an extension of the frame. All thats left is the driveshaft, the e-brake and regular brake lines need to be extended. Oh yeah, gotta move the shock mounts and bump stops. Also the front spring hangers will only go back about 3-4" before they get to the upswing in the frame, so if you go farther than that you have to build a support (or wedge) to level them.
I ended up with 7.5" more wheelbase but it'll take a while to do it, and I wouldn't suggest it for a daily driver, but for a hardcore offroad rig it's great. Oh yeah, you also gotsta cut out them rear wheel openings. And it's all got to be straight, so measure, measure, measure before you weld!
Whole lotta work, but it's worth it.
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Unread 06-15-2003, 12:58 AM   #3
jeepdaddy2000
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You haven't told us what your project is, but is it possable to move your drivetrain forward? I did this when I installed my T18a and didn't have to do any driveline mods. Just a thought.
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Unread 06-15-2003, 07:31 AM   #4
cj5DOTcom
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im putting a 350 /t350 into a cj 5
if i use an elec fan for the radiator, i can move the motor
forward around 5 inches(i only have around 5 inches now
between the transfer case and rear axle...so every inch counts
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Unread 06-16-2003, 03:30 PM   #5
kev1
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Kansas
Posts: 76
Would this help?
http://www.4xshaft.com/

They have a shorty double CV.
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Unread 06-16-2003, 04:54 PM   #6
rustyCJ
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Location: IL
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Quote:
Originally posted by cj5DOTcom
im putting a 350 /t350 into a cj 5
if i use an elec fan for the radiator, i can move the motor
forward around 5 inches(i only have around 5 inches now
between the transfer case and rear axle...so every inch counts
i only know of one CJ5 with a fullsize auto in it and it doesnt go offroad. actually its sitting on stock springs with a transfercase drop installed to help with the angles even with a CV rear.

my point, swap in a manual or buy a CJ7 to swap the th350 into. trying to put an auto into a CJ5 is like sticking a square peg into the round hole.
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Unread 06-17-2003, 01:56 PM   #7
cj5DOTcom
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so what you are saying is...if i have a big enough hammer,
anything will work...
in reality i redrilled the center hole in the springs and rebolted
them, then made a little longer shackles and still working on moving the engine forward...i should have around 13"
The tom woods d/s looked like what i need but for $400, ill see
what the local shop says
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