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Old 07-15-2004, 12:48 AM   #1
Boulder4x4
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Chocolate Color Gear Oil in Rear Dana 44

I am looking for some help and possible answers in diagnosing my rear Dana 44. I was driving down the road and kept hearing a load almost like clicking noise, but only at speeds of second gear or more. I think perhaps I didn't notice because of the high RPM's at the slow speeds. I was thinking that it might be the Tranny or case and took the rear driveshaft off, but there were no noises. I inspected the rear shaft, seems to be real solid, however the front knuckle (attched to the Tcase) seemed a bit loose, but not terribly.

I decided I should check the fluid level on the rear diff, so I took out the drain hole and it was as if someone put their chocolate shake in my rear diff. I knew immediately I had a problem because that could be related to some kind of mixture with the oil, most likely water.

I am curious what I should do to clean the rear differential and if anyone else has had a clicking noise what was the cause? I know I am going to have to pull the axels out, but does anyone have any idea what the noise could me. It was almost like a clicking noise or tinging(bolt in a glass jar).

Any help is highly appreciated, please give any suggestions or thoughts you may have regarding this issue and situation.

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Old 07-15-2004, 06:50 AM   #2
jadams68
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Ring and Pinion not set up correctly?
Dirt, sand, or debris in the differential case?

Water is a result of inner or outer axle seal or pinion seal allowing it to get into the case.
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Old 07-15-2004, 10:01 AM   #3
Jeepbeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadams68
Ring and Pinion not set up correctly?
Dirt, sand, or debris in the differential case?

Water is a result of inner or outer axle seal or pinion seal allowing it to get into the case.

You could start by dropping the inspection plate...flush out the old oil with a cleaner solution..then replace your seals.check
for gear wear..drop the driveshaft off the yoke, and wiggel it
with your hand if its loose..it can be tightened...but if worn, should be replaced.
A GOOD possibility with that "tinging sound" is deffinately the dust cover behind the yoke..it may have become unwelded and is tinging around. That happens rarely..but on older vehicles with lots of miles..it may simply have gotten unsecured. Like a cymbol on a drum set.. if you hit the cymbol..it vibrates a certain sound because of it's diameter...the dust sheild is smaller so the sound will be exactaly a "ting" as you are hearing.
I would also check your brakes in the rear..as one of the emergency brake cables may have worked loos and the adjusting
lever may have fallen off inside the drum area.
Refill your rear end with new 80-85 gear oil . YOu will have enough in the diff if you stick your pinky finger inside the hole where you put it in, and if your finger is wet with oil as soon as you put it in, it is full. Be sure fill the rear end on level ground..it will take alot of oil at first , and once it settles..it will show low ..so check it after it has set a bit...if you dont, you may shorten the life of your rear end. This oil may never need drained again..just add to it. But I always check my level once a year.
I also regrease my zerks.driveshaft . ball joints etc..every 3 months. and immediately after putting my baby in water...i pump in some more grease in the drive shafts and ball joints to push out the water.
Good luck
Keep on Jeep'n
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Old 07-15-2004, 10:11 AM   #4
ScottJ
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Chocolate milk in diff = water intrusion.

Check for bad seals and where your vent hose goes. Is it as high as it can get with a one-way valve on the end?
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Old 07-15-2004, 01:13 PM   #5
Striider
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Definitely water, change it, run it a few days, change again.
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Old 07-15-2004, 04:54 PM   #6
Boulder4x4
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I looked at my gears last night and they all look pretty tight, plus the gear oil was thick, smelled just like 80w90, but didn't have any major particles or many for that matter. What is the best solution or chemical to clean the differential out with? Carb cleaner? Diesel gas? Please advise.

What is a good differential cleaner for these axels? I just realized the rear end is from a Jeep CJ5 most likely a 73 so that could mean the wimpy 19 spline. I will be able to find out tonight when I take out one of the axels, inspect the bearings as well as the seals then count the end to find out how many sline I am dealing with.

Also, what is the best trick to putting a Dana 44 in the rear, buy from an Old Scout II or from a Jeep Wagoneer?

I want something heavier duty compared to a 19 spline wimpy rear early Jeep CJ5 diff.
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Old 07-15-2004, 05:26 PM   #7
Jeepbeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boulder4x4
I looked at my gears last night and they all look pretty tight, plus the gear oil was thick, smelled just like 80w90, but didn't have any major particles or many for that matter. What is the best solution or chemical to clean the differential out with? Carb cleaner? Diesel gas? Please advise.

What is a good differential cleaner for these axels? I just realized the rear end is from a Jeep CJ5 most likely a 73 so that could mean the wimpy 19 spline. I will be able to find out tonight when I take out one of the axels, inspect the bearings as well as the seals then count the end to find out how many sline I am dealing with.

Also, what is the best trick to putting a Dana 44 in the rear, buy from an Old Scout II or from a Jeep Wagoneer?

I want something heavier duty compared to a 19 spline wimpy rear early Jeep CJ5 diff.
The SAFEST chemical to clean out the axel area is called: BREAK CLEAN.
Don't use carb cleaner. . . it will dry out your seals and they will shrink.
What it does is act like carb cleaner, it evaporates so you dont have a different chemical left to mix with your new oil..but WILL NOT ruin or disfigure your seals...(rubber on the seals).
Champion auto Store has it..about 4 bucks a can

Put an oil pan below your diff, so the run off will not ruin the floor.
Just spray down the axel tubes and in the pumpkin area,
and spray it THICK top to bottom..let it almost wash the old junk out.
You may want to get two cans.
Hope this helps.
Keep on Jeep'n

Last edited by Jeepbeeper; 07-15-2004 at 05:32 PM..
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Old 07-15-2004, 05:59 PM   #8
Boulder4x4
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So you think the best solution is to pick up that chemical and clean out my diff?

I am still curious what could be wrong with my diff especially because there were no crumbs or pieces of metal in the pumpkin area or in the pot. I am thinking something might be loose in the 3rd member area, anyone have any idea what to look for?

The ring and pinnion all apear to be smooth and in good shape, just that ugly oil is all over the place. On my way home tonight I am going to stop by napa and pick up that solution, anything else you recommend purchasing or just a wait and see type of deal?

Also, how can you tell if your seals are damaged or in bad shape? i want to more or less rebuilt the rear end especially if there is significant damage and it is something I am able to do on my own.

thank you for the pointers
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1979 Jeep CJ 7, SOA, 1" body lift, Chevy 350 V8, NV4500, Dana 300 T-case, SOA, 35" MTR's, 15x8 AR BURST, Dana 44 F&R, Front/Rear Ox Lockers, 4.27 Gears, Avalanche high steer, Custom tire carrier, Stinger, full roll cage. Line X Bed-Liner, Warn 8274, NO RUST AT ALL, New paint (toyota- Millenium Silver Metallic), ProComp Vinyl Denim Seats, CD, 4 new Speakers, Amp, Hard YJ half doors, New Soft top, Tuffy console/glove box, new stainless steel hardware.
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Old 07-15-2004, 06:39 PM   #9
Jeepbeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boulder4x4
So you think the best solution is to pick up that chemical and clean out my diff?

I am still curious what could be wrong with my diff especially because there were no crumbs or pieces of metal in the pumpkin area or in the pot. I am thinking something might be loose in the 3rd member area, anyone have any idea what to look for?

The ring and pinnion all apear to be smooth and in good shape, just that ugly oil is all over the place. On my way home tonight I am going to stop by napa and pick up that solution, anything else you recommend purchasing or just a wait and see type of deal?

Also, how can you tell if your seals are damaged or in bad shape? i want to more or less rebuilt the rear end especially if there is significant damage and it is something I am able to do on my own.

thank you for the pointers
YET another test you can do to actually locate that noise is to
jack up the entire rear end..put it on stands ..block your front wheels front and rear of front tire..on LEVEL ground, and with a buddy near ...
With all that done, go to the outside of one of the tires, and turn it forward and rearward like a monkey gone nuts..and listen to any strange noises..have your buddy listen at the drivers side of the vehicle..this way he or she will be able to locate noises forward of the rear end.
Go to the left tire and monkey twist that one like above.
Listen for any noises... IF you hear a noise..then lessen your
manic turning of the rear tire to a minimum speed rocking it forward and rearward...this time see if one of you can actually LOCATE the noise.. this will tell you if its in the drive train..yokes..u joints...which i may mention...if they are frozen..you will get a popping sound from them..YES they can actually freeze from lack of grease..and freeze solid as a weld.
IF for some reason you cant locate the noise in the rear.
then reverse this entire proceedure..and jack up the front..
put blocks front and rear of rear wheels. set emergency break, and jack up the front and put jack stands on both sides of the fron axel.. lock your hubs...turn the steering wheel to the right..it should go all the way freely..when you get to the point you cannot turn anymore, let go of the wheel..(this is if you have no power steering.) If when you let go of the wheel..and the tire wants to turn back by itself , then you have a frozen u joint.
They will have a pop sound when turning.
Same for turning to the left proceedure.
SORRY im stuck on popping sounds.
Also.. just cleaning out the oil will not stop that popping sound.
I dont believe you put any amount of torque on that rear yoke..
It may not give with your hands...you may need to put vehicle in neutral and put your big ole' foot at the yoke and give it a slight push..if it moves your problem is in your yoke. If it really moves..
you may need to replace some bearings back there.
So if i were you...i'd do some good pushing to really test them joints and yoke...let alone you may need to drop the rear drive shaft at the axel and test it.. dont think you will get away with
"Awww its just the oil". ..or something you WISH was easy..
dont plan on that..
Lastly..check your transmission mounts they may be broken or loose and causing the drive train to buckle..
good luck..im outta things..lemme know what you find and we can continue when we find the REAL problem..ok..
later
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Old 07-15-2004, 09:43 PM   #10
sircampsalot2
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I've heard that if your axle gets too hot it can make the oil chocolate colored...I dont know if thats true but thats what I was told.
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Old 07-15-2004, 10:01 PM   #11
Jeepbeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sircampsalot2
I've heard that if your axle gets too hot it can make the oil chocolate colored...I dont know if thats true but thats what I was told.
Not true.
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Old 07-15-2004, 11:54 PM   #12
ScottJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sircampsalot2
I've heard that if your axle gets too hot it can make the oil chocolate colored...I dont know if thats true but thats what I was told.
No too hot makes the oil very runny and smell like a bag of cheap charcoal briquets.

I learned that when I got the shims in my Bronco's 8.8 mixed up setting the backlash too tight during a bearing change. Schedule didn't permit me to take it back apart so I put 800 miles on with it howling away.
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