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Unread 02-10-2011, 02:52 PM   #61
turbogus
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1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Albany~town, Oregon, Oregon my home and for 200 billion slugs
Posts: 1,460
Update: Got the brass/copper heater core and looking it over I found that the reason my old core had sprung a steam leak is that the top bracket that's brazed to the core had broken loose, this allowed the core to move around where the top tank (firewall side) had abraded against the heater box enclosure. Looking at the new core and the brazing looks better'n the old one. Glad the local shop chief was able to find one of these, he like myslef are disdianful of aluminum radiators and thier inherent fragility not only from physical damage but from electrolysis of the coolant over time. For as long as I can find them, I'm sticking with the 'old school' brass copper radiator and heater cores.
Also when lubing the internal cable I noticed how the cable end was secured with a 'push nut' after I reassemble the box into the Jeep going to get some and secure those slipping cable ends once and for all.

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Unread 03-29-2011, 11:11 AM   #62
Clemmohb
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Dexter, New Mexico
Posts: 1
This is a pretty easy one person job EXCEPT for when you re-install the heater/ventilation system. That's when you need somebody guiding you from the engine side so you can stab everything back where it needs to be. As soon as you have it lined up, silicon the heck out of the opening and draw it up tight. Some posts have said the hole needs to be enlarged about 1/4". I had to go at least 1/2" and I had to take out the hole that the plug fits through (just ground it bigger). You have plenty of motor flange to work with, so don't worry too much. Did mine on a 86 CJ-7 with the 4-banger. Screws are in the same place as on the six. The one hidden behind the engine is kind of hard to see, and it hides under a vacuum manifold on my unit. Two screws held the manifold and it was easy to remove. Removing the battery tray makes the whole process simpler as well. Took out the passenger seat (4 screws/bolts) and that gave me plenty of room to work inside without removal of the dash or anything. This would be a really good time to replace the Defroster duct hose! Mine had turned into confetti, but its over 25 years old.

Last edited by Clemmohb; 03-29-2011 at 11:12 AM.. Reason: wrong year model referenced!
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Unread 12-30-2012, 02:26 PM   #63
Truck633
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 1,483
Just my .02
I just finished installing the upgrade, I went with the PM102 (China) and an autozone heater core. The diameter of the pm102 was larger, no doubt. I figured that in itself was enough for me because my blower motor on high is about as crappy a you could get. I used an air saw and cut out 1/4 in all the way around the opening, then stretched the original foam seal around the new motor.

It certainly moves more air than I thought possible!! I just drove around and was plenty comfortable on speed selection 2..up all the way it sounds like a 747, so unless I need to really defrost the heck outta something #2 is fine!

I would recommend this upgrade for sure, and to add to the posts in here, there are a total of 4 bolts (nuts) you have to get from the firewall on the engine side. and when you cut the new hole, make sure to cut a little extra up and towards the passenger side, the bolt restricted me from going in and the sleeve on the motor wouldn't let the unit come up...A perfect catch 22! I was able to pry the motor out a little using the sleeve, and pushed the unit up at the same time. It "popped" into place and held just fine, however if I was going to do it again, I would have trimmed that up so I wouldn't have to be a contortionist next time!!!

All and all, I love it. Chinese crap and all, it works for me.
Thanks again to all the contributors to this thread, I swear I have saved more than my membership could have ever cost!!!


Tom
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