[RetiredSERE]

Well have been asked by a few to see the progress on my 1980 CJ-7 build. So here I go.

Started out as a general fix-it as I had had it for 2 years and all it did was sit in the drive. Which of coarse made the wife just happy as ****, so last December decide to put it into the garage for general repairs and get it on the road.

Thats when the issues started.

The front diff was completely ground and the axle bearings had rusted solid, wish I had pics of that mess. The tub had a lot of heavy rust, electrical was shot and just could not stand the way it ran or bounced.

Here are som pics of the initial problems.

[RetiredSERE]

More of the old pics. You can see the leaks and rust that are normally found in a jeep. Should have stuck with my old 69 SS

[RetiredSERE]

So let the shopping list begin.

Replacement Tub (fiber glass $600)
Steel for frame repairs and fab work
Brake / Fuel / Vac Lines
Replacement gears (were 3.07 but since the front was ground I was given a set of 3.55 for front and back)
New Brakes (will shift to disc rear sometime in my life time)
New Oil pump (was missing parts)
Rebuild kit for Dana 300 and T-176
Bearings, Seals, Gaskets, Races, ect......
Replacement windshield and frame
Hardware (this alone will probably bankrupt me)
Tires and rims

And what ever else comes up....

Plus I might need a new ladder as the Red Neck one wasn't safe...

[CJ Chet]

Let the dominoes fall!!

[RetiredSERE]

And there falling. Just wish I could figure how to post a pic, then text, then a pic in the same message, instead of all my text being on top. Well let me continue the saga.

Stripped the frame all the way down, and once the frame rot was repaired, painted it with POR. They aren't kidding when they say it will stick to anything. Replaced the rear shackle nuts with plate steel and tapped them. Ground off the old frame mounts and had a friend weld on the replacements. Re-build / re-geared the front and rear diffs (the front was a challange and the only proble I had with the AMC-20 was getting the inner seals installed without crushing them.

Rebuild and cleaned the T-176 (this took multipule times as I would some how forget to add the needle bearings. Think it was the Capt talking)

Cleaned and rebuilt the D-300 and added a sight level with disconnects.

[poppatello]

I like the orange. I guess that is your paint theme?

[RetiredSERE]

Didn't rebuild the engine as there was no compression loss and it was a re-man installed 20,000 miles ago, or so I am told. Head and valves redone, new oil pump installed (note to self, prime pump prior to install and make sure all oil openings are sealed before priming with a drill).

Also replaced timing gear, chain and cover. Decided to be creative and hi-lite the timing marks with white paint and then coat it with a clear coat. Decide to go with an electric fan (once I have the green). Something about having a clutchless fan moving under the hood makes me nervoius. Also had to replace the PS pump and pulley. Why is it that they list a pump for the 80 CJ-7 but not the pulley???? Also the PO decide that he didn't need a front bracket on the PS pump so got to play fabricator. Dropped in the distro and should have it close to TDC, will find out once I get the electrical hooked in. Have also started on the exhaust install (need to see if I can bypass a cat, if not will core one out.)

TBI also installed.

[RetiredSERE]

Seems to be. I like colors that show oil leaks. Besides I got a good deal on Hemi Orange. I also plan on representing every auto manufacturer on this build.

[poppatello]

Sounds great, and boy it sure is a beauty so far!

[RetiredSERE]

Now for the engine mounts, seems the PO only used 3 bolts per mount and they were grade 5, replaced the mounts and bolts with grade 8 and though it is not seen in the pic, used 4 bolts per side.

Brakes have become another issue as the replacement calipers were too large for the rims, had to do some grinding on both calipers for clearance. Thinking of switching to different rims down the raod but for now they are providing support. Also replace all brake lines with SS, just have to wait for the proportion valve to read line. Wrong one was sent and Classic Tube has been a little slow on turn around.

Fuel lines run along with new tank skid and sending unit. Ran both the feed and return on the passenger side to keep them away fron the exhaust. Nothing like having gas vapors next to a hot exhaust.

[RetiredSERE]

Finially got the old tube out of the yard. It was fixable but decide to for go issues down the road. Picked up a slightly used fiberglass tub. Current having my boss do some repairs and the he will prime it.

The last pic is my shadow, who by the look on his face, thinks I'm nuts, it was either that or he had just finished off my Capt n Coke.

[RetiredSERE]

Now do I consider a lift or just see about replacing the springs??

Rear shackles to hanging the same, plus the passenger side looks like on of the leafs has slipped. Took some measurements and on spring is 1 inch shorter than the other. Guess this means I need to save up some cash for replacements, that is unless I can find someone with a set laying around.

[RetiredSERE]

Well have learned some more time saving ideas.... just wish I would have thought about them before I started this project...

#1 Take plenty of pictures before you remove parts.... saves alot of research later in life.

#2 Take the time to organize the parts you remove. This will help identify what something is for replacement.

#3 Remember where you stashed the parts.... just spent 3 weeks looking for the CTO

#4 Have plenty of lubricating fluid available....... Capt Morgan would be mine..

#5 Never loose sight of your goal... should have been done with this build 2 months ago.

#6 Last but not least.... seriously think about the project before you start to see if it is even worth it.

Well just finished some of the smaller items, as I am still waiting on the rest of the brake hardware. Install a twin shift for the transfer case, painted and installing the shock (gabriel yellow just wouldn't work), installed the rebuild starter, and most of the fuel system. Need to track down the roll over stuff for the tank. Also need to re-install the front drive shaft.

Add to the shopping list:

New Valve Cover - old on warped
PS Lines
Steering Coupling Boot
Clutch Linkage Kit

[RetiredSERE]

Decided to upgrade to a hydralic clutch system. After figuring the angle requirements, ended up welding a tack to the face of the slave cyclinder near the top bolt. Also had to add 2 washers between the slave and the bell housing for the bottom bolt. This gave me the proper angle of attack to keep the slave inline with the clutch fork.

Need to work on some type of heat shield for the slave, plus thinking of adding a shield to the front exhaust pipe. Only have 1 inch clearance between slave and exhaust pipe. Will finish the clutch master install once the tub is mounted.

[Ziptie2k2]

Subscribed... All I needed to read was all of the Captain & Coke references!

Very nice work, wish I could help.