||01-13-2012 06:20 PM
I know this topic has been beat to death but I wanted to share my experience in the past couple of days with Chassis Saver. I am in the middle of a frame off restoration on my 1983 CJ7 and I have replaced the entire cowl, both wheel wells, floors, supports, and misc areas of the body panels. I would typically use epoxy primer first and then build from there to the final finish but I had a thought. "What if I used CHASSIS SAVER first to cover the entire tub, inside, outside, underneath, etc, etc". The thought process was, if I seal the entire tub from moisture and air, It will NEVER rust again, EVER. So I called the manufacturer and spoke to them three times over three weeks for reassurance that this can be done with no campatibility issues with the proceeding top coats and on top of my now rust free body. Those top coats over the chassis saver being, epoxy primer, then my body filler, followed by a 2K high build primer surfacer, epoxy sealer, and then base coat/clear coat. Seems reasonable right?
I removed ALL the rust from the tub. Chassis saver is designed to adhere to rust. The nature of my phone calls to chassis saver was to confirm that I could get it to adhere to bare, clean metal. According to the instructions, it will adhere to sandblasted clean metal. I, as Im sure many of you are in the same boat, do not have the rescources to sandblast at my home, or the extra funds to outsource (I got a quote of $750). The manufacturer then stated to me that if I use 60grit sandpaper on a d/a sander to create a "profile" in the metal, it will adhere to bare clean metal as if it were sandblasted.
The end result:
The preceeding paragrahs were just a longwinded way of saying DON'T DO IT!!!!!! The concept works in theory but not in reality. I am a skeptic by nature so I only did the driver side of the tub to test first. I followed the application instructions to the letter as well as the verbal instructions from the manufacturer. 60 grit d/a sand, thoroughly solvent clean with a quality pre paint prep, reduce up to 10% with S8 reducer, use the smallest hvlp paint tip I had available (1.2) and spray two THIN coats aprox 3 hrs apart. I let my final coat dry for two days (by the way, I live in Florida, so temperature was not an issue) and then went to sand it with 320 grit to prep for the epoxy primer. All the chassis saver flaked off as I was sanding. I'm just glad I found out now instead of 6 months from now when my paint job blows down the road behind me.
I hope this answers some questions, assuming some of you out there had the same "brilliant" idea that I had. One day we may have a product for this purpose but we are not there yet. Epoxy is the way to go for now. I am by no means saying that Chassis saver is a bad product, but it has to be used for its intended purpose which is painting OVER rust. By the way, it does adhere very well to old paint which, i guess is to be expected being that it is a urethane based product. I am a little pissed that the manufacturer assured me that the method he reccommended would work. He would have cost me a ton of time and money had I not been a little aprehensive and not done a test area first.
I appologize for the lengthy post, but I just thought it would be informative and hopefully save someone from making a BIG mistake.
BTW, I would have to assume a simillar result from POR15 since they are almost an identical product chemically.