Changing under fluids this weekend - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 35 Old 05-17-2013, 01:58 PM
Davis77Cj
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If it were me i would fix the known leak and clean everything up and go from there. That way you arent replacing seals that aren't leaking


Only in America do you have the God given right to be loudly opinionated about something that you are completly ignorant of.
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post #17 of 35 Old 05-17-2013, 02:51 PM
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
All manual transmission have fill and drain plugs on them as far as I know.



okay. i see

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #18 of 35 Old 05-17-2013, 02:54 PM
agear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexThePhotoGuy View Post
Thanks for the detailed pics!

I looked up under there today to spray some PB on the bolts and really got to noticing... so much is covered in gunk! I know I have a decent valve cover leak up top (another project) that is leaking below to what appears to be the bell housing and perhaps the driveshaft (maybe slinging it everywhere). While I'm up under there, does it make sense to fix a few more seals? In particular, I'm looking at the rear of the transfer case in the attached pic. Are there TWO inspection plates that I should re-gasket? The one on the bottom looks hard to get to with the skid plate on... and I've heard the skid plate holds the T-case it in place. Any ideas? Thanks team!
The transfercase bolts to the transmission and is other wise hanging there but the tranny is bolted to the skid plate. The bottom cover on the transfercase is gonna be the only inspection plate.
If I were you I would put on some cheap clothes buy some brake cleaner and scrape all that gunk off the skidplate and transfer case with a scraper after I sprayed everything down with some brake cleaner the spray it off again with brake cleaner and hit with a pressure washer. Id help you do it if I was there but it's gonna be nasty

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #19 of 35 Old 05-17-2013, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
AlexThePhotoGuy
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Those are good suggestions. I like getting dirty as long as it means I can find these leaks! Question- I installed a new starter a couple of months back- should I have put a gasket/sealer on where it mounts? I definitely didn't and wonder if that could be a source of leakage.
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post #20 of 35 Old 05-17-2013, 06:27 PM
agear
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That's not part of installing the starter but if youre leaking oil and don't want it to end up in the bell housing or in the starter you could. But it would take a ton of oil and is not likely at all that enough oil would fill the bottom of the bellhousing and spin oil everywhere on your clutch disc which you do not want. The bottom of the bellhousing isn't even sealed. Oil could seep in the bellhousing from the top , like the valve cover, but i've had some dandy leaks before and never had an issue with my clutch from the clutch disc being contaminated. I think you're alright. But I got off track. That's not a source of leakage.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #21 of 35 Old 05-18-2013, 12:15 AM
sanctified
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
You can buy a little pump which resembles and works the same as the ol' softsoap bottle in your house.just hose clamp a hose on the siphon tube anda stick it in your 1 gallon container gear oil comes in.
Wish my buddy would have told me this when he suggested a pump for my diff fluid. I made a mess and totally ruined a pair of okay cargos.

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post #22 of 35 Old 05-18-2013, 10:19 AM
agear
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The part fluid comes out of the pump has a hose with a little nozzle that will go into the fill hole.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #23 of 35 Old 05-20-2013, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
AlexThePhotoGuy
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It rained all weekend and I sadly have no garage, so hoping to do the work tomorrow afternoon. Anyone have a pic of my transfer case fill hole? I was under there the other day and only saw a clear drain hole. I think it's a dana 30 (whatever was stock on my 85 CJ 6cyl)
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post #24 of 35 Old 05-21-2013, 01:21 PM
RamblingCJ
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I can't because I'm away from my Jeep. However, it's a Dana 300 transfer case. That should help your search for information.
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post #25 of 35 Old 05-21-2013, 03:12 PM
LumpyGrits
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In the T5, use ONLY 75W-80 syn. tranny oil. NO ATF!
Use STD 85W-90 GL4 gear oil in the diffs and t'case.
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=417376
LG
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post #26 of 35 Old 05-21-2013, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
AlexThePhotoGuy
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T5 fluid change a (messy) success! Whatever the PO had in there was STINKY. I put Royal Purple Synchromax in there. For the diff, I have purchased 75w-90 that is rated "GL4 or GL5". As soon as I can confirm where the fill hole is I'll change that... unless someone screams and tells me that I NEEEED the 85w-90 GL4 that I can't find in big box stores.
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post #27 of 35 Old 05-21-2013, 05:52 PM
frhrwa
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IF you have posi trac, use the posi fluid for the differential, IF you have lockers or a normal 3rd member, use regular (not posi!) fluid in it.. I found out that posi fluid in lockers make them crunch like there going to throw the ring and pinion out the case.. I'm not a synthetic oil person, I think there are better natural oils, like Rotella for instance.. and in the motor, I put Rotella for diesels motor oil, because it has the ingredients that have been stripped from all of your motor oils to satisfy the ENVIROMENTALISTS..

I want to die in my sleep like my grandfather, not screaming in terror like the passengers in his JEEP!...
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post #28 of 35 Old 05-21-2013, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
AlexThePhotoGuy
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Dana 300 fluid change also a (messy) success! From looking more around there, it appears the TC is leaking somewhere. Perhaps where it connects to the shaft that goes to the front diff (it's the thickest/wettest part). I pulled out about a liter and a half of fluid and put in about 2 and a half liters. Also, saw this on the drain plug... not good. I'm hoping it's just been a while since the PO had changed the fluid. No telling what kind of damage lies inside. Out of time today, but hope to get to the differentials in the next week. Any thoughts on the TC?
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20130521_173509_029.jpg  
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post #29 of 35 Old 05-21-2013, 08:57 PM
LumpyGrits
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Somewhat normal t'case maggie drain.
Good choice on tranny oil.
Put about 5K miles in the entire driveline and change it again.
LG
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post #30 of 35 Old 05-21-2013, 09:09 PM
Eddie800
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If its been a while, don't forget brake fluid and coolant.

1982 JEEP CJ7 258 W/MOPAR FI, AMC20 & D30 w/4.10, T5, D300, 32"
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2179578
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