Changing a CJ rollbar to a YJ family style rollbar - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Changing a CJ rollbar to a YJ family style rollbar

Engo winches available at www.rockridge4wd.com! Free shippFS: Wranger BRIGHT License Plate LED! Just $3! Great valuePremium LED Lighting by VISION X, Proudly sold at ROCKRIDG

Reply
Unread 05-09-2008, 07:16 AM   #1
Bard
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Granite State
Posts: 2,662
Changing a CJ rollbar to a YJ family style rollbar

Here is the write up on changing the CJ rollbar to the YJ rollbar.
(Now just remember this is really no safer than the current rollbar and is not a cage and doesn’t have any supports tied into the frame.)
I originally decided to change the bar to be able to add two functions to my CJ. Number one was to have a 3-point seatbelt in the rear. Makes it easier for the car seat. The second was to give myself something to pull myself in the drivers seat verse the steering well. IMO this works well.
Now this is based on two different Jeeps, one past and current, both 80’s, but some pics were better from the first round so they are included. I might have missed something, but feel free to ask questions or add stuff to it.

Best place to get one -
Best place to find one is a junkyard or someone parting out a 92 to 95 Wrangler YJ with a family style rollbar. Make sure you get the seatbelts and the short female belts for the rear. If not you can find them afterwards locally or Ebay, etc.
The rollbar bolt holes are the same pattern for 82 to 86 CJ7 and some other years, not sure on the 76 to 82, been while since I have seen one.
Tools – Your basic tools you have, wrenches, drill, etc.

I got all my nuts and bolts at ACE Hardware and they have all the nutserts, nutsert tool and drill bits.
I got rid of all the torx, except the ones on the 3-point belts.
I replaced them all with grade 8 3/8 or 7/16 bolts, nuts, lock washers and washers for the rollbar.
4 5/16 (1/4” will work) nutserts. I think they are 18 thread for the 5/16, just get the right bolts. Make sure you see what size drill bit you need for the nutsert; it should show on the case.
1 nutsert tool 5/16
4 5/16 by 1 ¼ 18 thread bolts
4 washers
2 3/8 1 ½ bolts 2 flat washer, 1 lock washer and nut.
1 ¼ steel drill bit
1 3/8 steel drill bit
1 ½ drill bit
1 step drill bit ¼ to ¾ (not required but I like them as they are faster. very pricey though)

I remove the rear seat and lap belts now. You have to start by removing the seat belts or 3 point on the CJ rollbar; you should have one on the floor and the other on the CJ bar. You can leave the seatbelt housing on the tub if you want to.

Next get the torx bolts out, 4 on the floor by the seat and 2 in the rear of the inner tub fender. You have to get the old torx bolts out; they are going to require a lot of PB, heat and aggravation. I am usually able to get them red hot with torches and use an impact gun with a torx bit 45 or 50 to remove. I have also resorted to grinding the heads off a couple or drilling them out.

Remove the CJ bar

Clean up the rollbar floor mounting areas. Get rid of any dirt or rust; paint it if you want, etc. Your choice.

Set in the YJ rollbar. You can remove both sliders if you want. If your windshield tilts forward, it is a plus but not essential. I have done it both ways

I bolt in the bar to the floor and put the seat belts on. I replace all the torx bolts with 6 point hex bolts and all grade 8.

Next is to mark a hole 12 inches from the tailgate and go 2” up from the floor. I drilled a ¼ hole and then went up in size to the 7/16 bolt through. You drill to the outside of the inner tub. You can paint it or coat it later.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
Pull down your seatbelt from the YJ bar. (I added a washer to the outside of the seatbelt strap to give it a little play.) Put the lock washer and nut on and tighten it up.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
You put the two short female lap belts in to the center of the floor (this is where your belts should have been. You can put the two bolts back into the sides where the bolts were, if not they will just act as drain holes.

The rear is done, now for the fun stuff.

I make sure my front supports are close to the windshield. You will have to remove the visors if you have them. I put the hard doors on to make sure they will clear the YJ front bar. (Not sure of soft tops???) Line it up with the holes on the YJ front support and make my marks. Take the doors off.
[IMG][/IMG]
Drill out ¼” holes. Then go up to the size you need to get the nutsert in. DO NOT OVERDRILL THE NUTSERT HOLE, not fun to fix a screw up like that.
[IMG][/IMG]
Gather up your nutserts, tools drill, wrenches.
[IMG][/IMG]
I used a longer 5/16 bolt to set them in; I think it was 1 ½ long. Set the nutsert into the windshield, put the nutsert tool and tighten the bolt by hand. When you get close to tight, use wrenches to tighten the bolt into the nutsert tool, this will set the nutsert in. Remove tool and bolt, Proceed on to each side.
Place your front supports on and tighten up your bolts. I use flat washers or even lock washers as well. Adjust the front supports as needed.
[IMG][/IMG]

Finally it is done.
[IMG][/IMG]

Hope this clears up how to change it. I can do additional pics or measurements if needed. Install time may vary due to torx bit removal

__________________
85' CJ7 Laredo, 383 GM, Turbo 350, NP 203. SOA, 2" frame lift, 34" TSL swampers, Dana 30 open, AMC 20 w/ detroit locker, 4:10's, 1 Piece Mosers, 35" boggers to abuse when needed.
Bard is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-09-2008, 07:23 AM   #2
NHwheelin
Registered User
1991 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NewHampshire
Posts: 526
Another thing on my long list of to do or want to dos. Thanks for the write up.
__________________
91 XJ Limited (stock for now)
NHwheelin is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-09-2008, 09:12 AM   #3
CjinPA
Web Wheeler
 
CjinPA's Avatar
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Dickson City, Pa. (North East, Pa), Pa
Posts: 1,079
You can adjust the length of the spreader bars (the bars that attach to the windshield) to set your windshield angle. There is a safety torex bolt (torex bolt with a pin sticking up in the center of the head of the bolt) in the top rear part of the spreader bar. Just loosen it and a small insert in the bar slides in and out to adjust the length. I couldnt find the safety torex bit for sale by itself so I had to buy a set of safety torex bits at sears for $40. I bought the front sport cage that MORE sells for a YJ, for my CJ because I didn't want to bolt the spreader bars to my fiberglass windshield. I figured it would only be a matter of time before the fiberglass windshield frame would crack.
__________________
84 CJ7 Northstar V8
91 YJ Renegade, I have owned it since it was new.
97 TJ daily driver.

Jeeps that I am currently parting out;
1994 Jeep YJ 4cyl 5spd
1992 Jeep YJ 4cyl 5spd
CjinPA is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-09-2008, 09:27 AM   #4
spoonkilr
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: california
Posts: 162
Conversion

Hey bard that looks great. I am trying to do the same thing to my 86 cj. Do you have any pics of how the inside came out. just curious?? By the way what is my best bet on a cage? I have gone junk yarding and in my area they are few and far between. Any suggestion? be gentle I leaning as I go!! thanks Bob
spoonkilr is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-09-2008, 09:34 AM   #5
j33pman
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Cobleskill, NY
Posts: 936
I'm planning the same for my '84. I pick up my rollbar on sunday. I might hold off a little while, because I have a possibility of picking up a YJ tub as well, no need to install twice
__________________
Bill H. - 1984 CJ-7
Now with Fiberglass!
My Rebuild thread
http://www.schohariecountyjeepclub.org
j33pman is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-09-2008, 09:39 AM   #6
Bard
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Granite State
Posts: 2,662
Quote:
Originally Posted by CjinPA View Post
You can adjust the length of the spreader bars (the bars that attach to the windshield) to set your windshield angle. There is a safety torex bolt (torex bolt with a pin sticking up in the center of the head of the bolt) in the top rear part of the spreader bar. Just loosen it and a small insert in the bar slides in and out to adjust the length. I couldnt find the safety torex bit for sale by itself so I had to buy a set of safety torex bits at sears for $40. I bought the front sport cage that MORE sells for a YJ, for my CJ because I didn't want to bolt the spreader bars to my fiberglass windshield. I figured it would only be a matter of time before the fiberglass windshield frame would crack.
Very good point, maybe I should go back and edit it. I forgot I adjusted mine before I marked the hole. Nice catch.
__________________
85' CJ7 Laredo, 383 GM, Turbo 350, NP 203. SOA, 2" frame lift, 34" TSL swampers, Dana 30 open, AMC 20 w/ detroit locker, 4:10's, 1 Piece Mosers, 35" boggers to abuse when needed.
Bard is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-09-2008, 09:49 AM   #7
Bard
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Granite State
Posts: 2,662
Quote:
Originally Posted by spoonkilr View Post
Hey bard that looks great. I am trying to do the same thing to my 86 cj. Do you have any pics of how the inside came out. just curious?? By the way what is my best bet on a cage? I have gone junk yarding and in my area they are few and far between. Any suggestion? be gentle I leaning as I go!! thanks Bob
Thanks. Only other pics are from the old Jeep below. I will do new ones as soon as I put mine completely back together.

My advice is best to be patient and wait. I payed $100 for mine and it was complete with the belts. I have also seen them as high as $500. You can find them on craigslist, Ebay or just buy a parts Jeep. You should be easily be able to recoup your costs back.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
__________________
85' CJ7 Laredo, 383 GM, Turbo 350, NP 203. SOA, 2" frame lift, 34" TSL swampers, Dana 30 open, AMC 20 w/ detroit locker, 4:10's, 1 Piece Mosers, 35" boggers to abuse when needed.
Bard is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-09-2008, 11:22 AM   #8
spoonkilr
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: california
Posts: 162
thanks

thanks BARD thats what I needed!!!Bob
spoonkilr is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-09-2008, 12:22 PM   #9
CJ Chet
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Yorktown, Virginia
Posts: 2,575
I found the nutserts. But I'm still fuzzy on how you set them in. Could you elaborate on that some. Keep in mind you're talking to an Electronic Geek!
__________________
Beer is the answer - it doesn't matter what the question is!

'86 CJ7, 265 CI, DUI, TF999, Borla, Weber, 4" BDS Lift.
'04 AEV RUBICON.
'00 TJ Sahara.
CJ Chet is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-09-2008, 03:26 PM   #10
Bard
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Granite State
Posts: 2,662
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ Chet View Post
I found the nutserts. But I'm still fuzzy on how you set them in. Could you elaborate on that some. Keep in mind you're talking to an Electronic Geek!
Sure, you drill your holes where you need them, Do not go to far or overdrill the hole for the nutsert ( I will explain my fix when I do it at a later date. )

The nutsert has a round cylinder with splines on it. The inside has the thread pattern. You insert the spline side into your hole and get it flush as possible by hand. You take the nutsert tool and place the side with the lip, see pic, facing the threads of the bolt. Set the bolt into the nutsert and tighten by hand. I used a 9/16 socket on this nutsert tool and a wrench to tighten the bolt. It will tighten forcing the splines out and grab onto the windshield frame. Just go until it is tight enough. Back out the bolt. (If the nutsert spins, stop and tighten just a little bit more) Back out the bolt and nutsert tool and pull the nutsert tool off the bolt. Do the other nutsert and repeat. After the other ones are done, remove the nutsert tool and save it for future use.

Hope this helps. If not I can do a step by step.

[IMG][/IMG]
__________________
85' CJ7 Laredo, 383 GM, Turbo 350, NP 203. SOA, 2" frame lift, 34" TSL swampers, Dana 30 open, AMC 20 w/ detroit locker, 4:10's, 1 Piece Mosers, 35" boggers to abuse when needed.
Bard is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-09-2008, 03:33 PM   #11
CJ Chet
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Yorktown, Virginia
Posts: 2,575
That makes sense after seeing your labeled photo. The guy that sold them to me talked about a real big tool that was needed to set them (almost like a pop riveter). Just didn't sound right! I was thinking that I should be able to use a good quality nut and bolt to do the same thing - OR?
__________________
Beer is the answer - it doesn't matter what the question is!

'86 CJ7, 265 CI, DUI, TF999, Borla, Weber, 4" BDS Lift.
'04 AEV RUBICON.
'00 TJ Sahara.
CJ Chet is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-09-2008, 03:42 PM   #12
Bard
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Granite State
Posts: 2,662
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ Chet View Post
That makes sense after seeing your labeled photo. The guy that sold them to me talked about a real big tool that was needed to set them (almost like a pop riveter). Just didn't sound right! I was thinking that I should be able to use a good quality nut and bolt to do the same thing - OR?
No, he was right. There are 2 ways to do it. They do have a pop rivit gun which you can change the head to do the same thing. I just prefer the nutsert tool since it is easier to gauge the pressure from spinning the nutsert and smaller to work with. Plus it is less expensive to do it this way if you do not own a pop rivit gun. The tool is like 3 to 5 bucks. It can be done either way.
__________________
85' CJ7 Laredo, 383 GM, Turbo 350, NP 203. SOA, 2" frame lift, 34" TSL swampers, Dana 30 open, AMC 20 w/ detroit locker, 4:10's, 1 Piece Mosers, 35" boggers to abuse when needed.
Bard is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-09-2008, 04:06 PM   #13
xj89
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: New jersey
Posts: 904
Hey great write up! im actually doing this this weekend and didnt relize what mounting it to the windshield entailed!. can u go into a little more detail on how you use the "nutserts" and what the nutsert tool is? thanks for the help if u can
__________________
74 CJ5
86 CJ7
89 Cherokee
xj89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-09-2008, 04:15 PM   #14
Bard
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Granite State
Posts: 2,662
Quote:
Originally Posted by xj89 View Post
Hey great write up! im actually doing this this weekend and didnt relize what mounting it to the windshield entailed!. can u go into a little more detail on how you use the "nutserts" and what the nutsert tool is? thanks for the help if u can
Thanks, a nutsert is a steel fitting that clasp against the holes you drill into the windshield. Ideally the splines of the nutsert grab into the steel and by using the nutsert tool, it pushes the spline into the steel to form a seal and a tight fitting and won't spin when you install the bolt. The nutsert tool doesn't have threads, has a outer lip to allow it to spin freely in the nutsert. The tool is open inside and allows the bolt to torque and tighten the sert to the windshield frame, then you can back it out. This help?
__________________
85' CJ7 Laredo, 383 GM, Turbo 350, NP 203. SOA, 2" frame lift, 34" TSL swampers, Dana 30 open, AMC 20 w/ detroit locker, 4:10's, 1 Piece Mosers, 35" boggers to abuse when needed.
Bard is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-09-2008, 09:28 PM   #15
bigjoe
Registered User
1977 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Paltz,NY
Posts: 2,047
Nice write up Bard. Question about the rear bar and the front stringers. Are they bolted to the center bar? I want to do this in My '77 but it has the old style "A" bar bolted to the top of the wheel well and the tub has no holes at the bottom of the tub of course, why would it So I was thinking if the YJ bars unbolt I could either weld or bolt them to the factory bar an then attach to the rear of the wheel well and windsheild. Or my other option could be to remove factory bar and them bolt the whole YJ bar in it's place. That would only leave me with the issue of 4 holes on each side of the tub.
Any suggestions?
bigjoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.