Carter Idle Curse - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 08-24-2006, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
1984CJ
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Carter Idle Curse

1984 CJ7-258,T-5,D300,D30,AMC20. All emissions stuff seems to be intact.

I have been struck with the Carter BBD wonít idle curse.

Symptoms are: Runs at high idle with some missing. Runs ok on the road. As soon as you take it off high idle it dies. It doesnít even stumble or hesitate. The idle falls off and it quits.

I have tried in the following order:
Clean idle tubes and spray carb cleaner into the bowl
Checked vacuum lines and they seem to be OK. There were a couple of elbows that were cracked and I replaced those.
I have looked and the computer is moving the needles back and forth inside the carb.
Sprayed carb cleaner at the base of the carb while it was on high idle and the idle didnít change.

Any more suggestions?


84 CJ7 258, T5, D300, AMC 20, D30 EZ lockers F&R
33" TSL, 2.5"BDS lift, .5" shackle lift 1" body lift
Quote:
Originally Posted by ftdranger
You guys on the CJ tech page are a little to tech for me. Must be the leaf springs.
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post #2 of 9 Old 08-24-2006, 10:56 PM
Mud_Fool
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You can do what I did and get a Motor Craft 2100. Made a huge difference. My Carter did the EXACT same thing.. tried everything you did.. finially broke down and got the MC.. You can get kits on Ebay.
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post #3 of 9 Old 08-24-2006, 11:41 PM
CJ7 Vette
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gave up on mine and went with the howell TBI setup. worth every penny!
I can reach in the jeep from outside and start it(provided it isnt in gear anyway lol) and it idles flawlessly. probably gained 3 mpg and noticeably better responsiveness. it feels like it has alot more headroom at highway speeds as well. for the record I did install borla header/exhuast and that helps out too.

84 CJ7 new 258,Howell TBI, Borla header/exhaust, clutch, repainted engine compartment,frame and most of undercarriage,jks discos and a host of other new stuff under the hood :)
update: no rust, new floors, stripped, primed, filled, blocked, and repainted with PPG Concept Garnet Metallic. Hardtop freshly painted, all trim painted in black metallic with a bit of flatener mixed in. New seats, carpet, console, roll bar pad, seat belts,dash, flares, windshield, seals, tire carrier and more!
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post #4 of 9 Old 08-25-2006, 07:44 AM
famicom21
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1. do the nutter bypass

2. if that doesnt work, buy a MC2100 (which requires the nutter byapss) - Best swap i have ever done!

Yellow 86 CJ-7 Red 70 CJ-5
"Out on the road, out 'neath the stars, Feelin' the breeze, passin the cars."
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post #5 of 9 Old 08-25-2006, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by famicom21
1. do the nutter bypass

2. if that doesnt work, buy a MC2100 (which requires the nutter byapss) - Best swap i have ever done!

X2

OR go get a 1982 or earlier carb, they are not computer controlled. You can find them practically free.



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post #6 of 9 Old 08-25-2006, 09:34 AM
twmattox
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Clean the idle tubes...and open them up a little (drill larger).

Then rebuild the carb. Should help.
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post #7 of 9 Old 08-25-2006, 11:01 AM
KrazyGimp
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I would reccomend either the earlier non-computer controlled carter or the MC2100 swap. Both would probably come out to the same price. They ebay guy is selling them for too much in my opinion. I just recently did the MC2100 swap and the HEI ignition upgrade and the difference in power and response is amazing. It is easily one of the best upgrades I have done for my Jeep.

1982 CJ-5 Laredo 258, T-176, D-300
1972 240z in pieces...

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...that's why you push in that little nipple (hehe.. I said nipple on the internet :D )
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post #8 of 9 Old 08-25-2006, 08:46 PM
NCCJ7
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I rebuilt my old Carter before swapping to the MC2100. The PO had already swapped to a manual Carter, but didn't do the Nutter bypass. I rebuilt it for $20 and did the bypass and it ran perfectly. Smooth idle at 500 RPM, no misses etc. But for off road it just didn't want to perform well on inclines. I would say, if you can afford it now, do the swap, if not, pull the carb and drop in a rebuild kit.
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post #9 of 9 Old 08-25-2006, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
1984CJ
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Fixed it!
Replaced the O2 sensor and reset the idle screws!
This web page was MOST helpfull.

I will probably look into the MC2100 swap for this in the future but a $20 O2 sensor was much quicker and cheaper.

I am going to be helping a friend with a 2100 and HEI on an 87 YJ in a week or so. If it works really good then I will probably go that route.

Thanks for the help guys!

84 CJ7 258, T5, D300, AMC 20, D30 EZ lockers F&R
33" TSL, 2.5"BDS lift, .5" shackle lift 1" body lift
Quote:
Originally Posted by ftdranger
You guys on the CJ tech page are a little to tech for me. Must be the leaf springs.
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