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Unread 02-27-2014, 12:42 AM   #61
86cj74.2L
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You can tweak the fast idle cam rod so the fast idle screw is lined up with the second step of the fast idle cam with choke closed.

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Unread 02-27-2014, 04:59 AM   #62
Mike Romain
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Your pull off has no impact on a cold start. It opens the choke slightly 'after' the engine starts. If not working, you can get a flood condition or chugging after it starts.

Gas filter is in correct, level with the return nipple up top right? This Really affects the cold start. An upside down gas filter makes for really long cranks when cold. The gas has all drained back to the tank when it sat.

With the choke closed, the fast idle cam needs to be on the second step. There is even a mark on the second step on some where the screw sits so it isn't too far back on the step.

The fine tuning of the choke really doesn't stop it from giving that first vroom if it is getting gas and spark. One of my Jeeps (got a YJ Renegade for Xmas from my son) came with a seized choke and it will still fire up at -20. Was -17C yesterday and my wife got it going at 6 am no problem. Gotta pump the gas pedal like a mad man, to keep it going but it still gives that first vroom.
My CJ with its mechanical choke took 3 pumps and fired right up first crack of the starter yesterday.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 09:19 AM   #63
moto450r
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Thanks Mike.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
Your pull off has no impact on a cold start. It opens the choke slightly 'after' the engine starts. If not working, you can get a flood condition or chugging after it starts.
Agreed. I did get my new choke pull off in the mail yesterday. The old one will not hold the vacuum. So in essence I have a vacuum leak after its running. I'll replace it tonight.

Quote:
Gas filter is in correct, level with the return nipple up top right? This Really affects the cold start. An upside down gas filter makes for really long cranks when cold. The gas has all drained back to the tank when it sat.
Yes

Quote:
With the choke closed, the fast idle cam needs to be on the second step. There is even a mark on the second step on some where the screw sits so it isn't too far back on the step.
It is.

Quote:
The fine tuning of the choke really doesn't stop it from giving that first vroom if it is getting gas and spark. One of my Jeeps (got a YJ Renegade for Xmas from my son) came with a seized choke and it will still fire up at -20. Was -17C yesterday and my wife got it going at 6 am no problem. Gotta pump the gas pedal like a mad man, to keep it going but it still gives that first vroom.
My CJ with its mechanical choke took 3 pumps and fired right up first crack of the starter yesterday.
This morning I had to jump start the CJ so I'm going to replace the battery tonight. This may be part of the problem too.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 09:45 AM   #64
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Moto,

I feel your pain, man. A failed pull-off, broken choke linkage (from bending it too much), and leaking throttle shaft bores are the reasons my BBD is at the bottom of a pond.

The last 2 pages of this thread illustrate one of my biggest pet peeves with the BBD, and why I think the design is archaic. I never liked the fact that you have to bend those linkages to fine tune. There are also small parts on the inside that require bending to adjust, as well. That always seemed a crude and inaccurate way of doing things, to me.

Anyway, good luck, you have a couple of the best BBD gurus helping you.

Matt
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Unread 02-27-2014, 09:54 AM   #65
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Quote:
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Moto,

I feel your pain, man. A failed pull-off, broken choke linkage (from bending it too much), and leaking throttle shaft bores are the reasons my BBD is at the bottom of a pond.

The last 2 pages of this thread illustrate one of my biggest pet peeves with the BBD, and why I think the design is archaic. I never liked the fact that you have to bend those linkages to fine tune. There are also small parts on the inside that require bending to adjust, as well. That always seemed a crude and inaccurate way of doing things, to me.

Anyway, good luck, you have a couple of the best BBD gurus helping you.

Matt
Yeah, these BBDs didn't move the carb inivation scale to right, thats for sure.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 10:22 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moto450r View Post
Yeah, these BBDs didn't move the carb inivation scale to right, thats for sure.
If you ever have the opportunity to tune some of the other popular Jeep carbs like a Weber, Q-jet, or even most Holleys (I think), the differences become even more apparent.

I don't mean to bash the BBD, mine served admirably for about 15 years, but those last 15 were a challenging affair. I can't say that I miss it.

Matt
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Unread 02-27-2014, 12:41 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moto450r View Post
Yeah, these BBDs didn't move the carb inivation scale to right, thats for sure.

Well the BBD were used from 1954 until everything went to fuel injection in 1991.

That is a heck of a run in my book.

The metering design was quite unique for it's day.

But I understand that 60 year old's are just getting in the way of progress and should be replaces with a Hot Spaniard Super Model.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 01:29 PM   #68
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If you get no joy with the new battery

Pull the top of the carb off and look for more dirt.

If all passages are clean, and it was put together correctly it should work.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 08:38 PM   #69
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New battery installed. Charging it up over night




Installed the new choke pull off but didn't do any adjustments to it.

Received the new jets today in the mail. They will stay on the bench until my weekend.




As a note of interest.......I pulled the air cleaner lid off to look at the stepper motor position at idle. The motor was warm from the kid driving it but it had been sitting for about an hour-ish. The metering pins pull way back into the stepper motor. If I work the throttle, the pins move in and out but they will move way back to the stepper every time it's idling @680 rpm. Does that mean it's running lean or rich at idle?
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Unread 02-27-2014, 09:25 PM   #70
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Its rich at idle.

With engine fully warmed up slowly turn in the idle mixture screws until the average position of the stepper pins is around 1/8 inch shoulder showing.

They will always be moving in and out. Just try and get it to where you see 1/8 inch most of the time

I have two YouTube videos showing the stepper pins at idle.
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Unread 02-28-2014, 07:27 AM   #71
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Here is what I saw this morning 54* and the choke plate not completely closed.




I gave the gas pedal two pumps and the engine almost started but didn't. I pumped the gas pedal a couple more times and it's started. So tomorrow morning I'll get the choke plate re-adjusted.

Another note from this morning....... The sole-vac started pulsing when the choke plate was fully open and the fast idle screw was off the cam. This lasted until the 135* coolant switch closed and the eng was in Closed Loop. Sooooooo I think I have, no clue.
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Unread 02-28-2014, 07:34 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L
Its rich at idle. With engine fully warmed up slowly turn in the idle mixture screws until the average position of the stepper pins is around 1/8 inch shoulder showing. They will always be moving in and out. Just try and get it to where you see 1/8 inch most of the time I have two YouTube videos showing the stepper pins at idle.
Thanks! I saw a video on the stepper but wasn't sure which way meant lean and rich.

Also, I adjusted the idle mixture screws using a vacuum gauge an got the vacuum up to 18" right before the RPMs started to drop. That is where I left them, about 3.5 turns out. Should I turn them in more and adjust the curb idle back up as it drops?
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Unread 02-28-2014, 07:37 AM   #73
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Moto,

Tune the mixture screws to the highest vac reading and leave them, then adjust the idle.

Matt
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Unread 02-28-2014, 07:57 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moto450r View Post
.......................

Another note from this morning....... The sole-vac started pulsing when the choke plate was fully open and the fast idle screw was off the cam. This lasted until the 135* coolant switch closed and the eng was in Closed Loop. Sooooooo I think I have, no clue.
That is kinda what it's suppose to do. With the manifold heater running you need some RPM increase to up the output of the alternator so the solvac will kick in increasing the speed slightly (900 rpm).

Once the water temp reaches 160* the coolant switch will open shutting off the manifold heater and the solvac will stop operating unless you turn you AC on.

You need to adjust the Solvac idle speed also after everything else is adjusted also but it's simple. Make sure it's not adjusted wrong effecting your other adjustments on the idle speed.

http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/solvac.htm
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Unread 02-28-2014, 08:57 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moto450r View Post

Thanks! I saw a video on the stepper but wasn't sure which way meant lean and rich.

Also, I adjusted the idle mixture screws using a vacuum gauge an got the vacuum up to 18" right before the RPMs started to drop. That is where I left them, about 3.5 turns out. Should I turn them in more and adjust the curb idle back up as it drops?
I normally have to adjust the idle several times when setting up a fresh rebuild.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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