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Unread 02-25-2002, 05:21 PM   #1
Guy Hollister
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Carter BBD Problem... is this bad ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...465941&r=0&t=0

See this pic of a Carter... see the wire at the front ... i dunno what it is but the wire goes into that rubber boot ... on MINE... its busted inside that boot and i can see the contact that it should [i believe] be connected to...

Do you KNOW if its a bad thing or not ?

MY carb has probs all the time... but never enough to stop me fixing at the time... mostly the air intake stays closed on starting and i have to hold it open with a twist tie while starting... then its fine ! yikes. Don't laugh...

Cheers
Guy

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Unread 02-25-2002, 07:41 PM   #2
1911shtr
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It could be too the electric choke. looks similar to my two barrel holley.
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Unread 02-26-2002, 03:46 AM   #3
Guy Hollister
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That could be a good reason why the air stays shut on start !! Any CJ heads can confirm this is the choke ?

Guy
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Unread 02-26-2002, 03:24 PM   #4
Jeep Daddy
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It's the choke The white thing on the back is the place your computer is wired to
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Unread 03-02-2002, 11:31 AM   #5
AeroViper1
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I dissagree w/ Jeepdaddy, Have the same Carb and the choke is a round black piece that is missing from the picture. The wire, in my opinion it's the Anti-desiel solonoid, no clue what it does, but I bought a new harness and did the Nutter Bypass and that wire is obsolete.
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Unread 03-02-2002, 08:27 PM   #6
Jeep Daddy
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I stand corrected. The black thing isn't the choke, but it has something to do with high idle as it is warming up. I believe it is designed to work at 3 different RPM speeds depending on the engine and air temp. It works with vacuum and the computer.

It's called the Sol-Vac and you can find much needed information here: Idle speed adjustment

Sorry to missinform you.
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Unread 03-11-2002, 09:22 PM   #7
johny1i
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I thought I'd throw in my two cents worth because that Sol-Vac gave me a fit when it decided to start acting up on me. The "certain conditions" that JeepDaddy's idle adjustment article mentions are mainly when the AC compressor is on or when the hardtop's rear window defroster (who has one of these?!) is on. It is supposed to compensate for the drop in engine RPM's due to the load of these two accessories being turned on. However, my Sol-Vac would get stuck on (extended) and when the AC compressor would cycle off, the RPM's would then be around 1100 RPM because of no engine load. Long story short, I just took the thing off and even when I run my AC, the RPM's just drop about 100 RPM and I can live with that. If you don't have an AC, my advice is to just get rid of the thing. Hope this helps!
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Unread 03-11-2002, 09:56 PM   #8
Bob K
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I'm using a universal choke cable conversion kit from AutoZone. Less than 5 bucks. Installs in about an hour. No more choke hassles. Fast idle anytime I want it.
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Unread 03-12-2002, 05:05 AM   #9
Guy Hollister
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What was the part number from Autozone ?

AND... i get the remove it bit... but how ? as in - what to 'tie off' what to not touch... etc

cheers
g
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Unread 03-12-2002, 09:28 AM   #10
johny1i
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As far as removing it, just take those front two carburetor screws off and the bracket that holds the sole-vac will then come off (Make sure to put the screws back in then!). Yours looks a little different than mine only in that the other side of the bracket extends and has a hole in it (bottom of e-bay picture)--I'm not sure what that hole is a mount for, so make sure you don't need the sol-vac's bracket for another purpose. If you do, you could just take out the sol-vac adjustment screw and it wouldn't matter if it was working or not because it wouldn't come in contact with anything. I just put electrical tape over the electrical plug to the sol-vac after removing it so that I could reinstall it in the future if necessary. Trace back the vacuum line that goes to it after you remove it, and just cap off the line at its source.

Regarding the choke problem, though. The round gold-tone "thing" on the far left of the e-bay picture is the vacuum diaphragm (choke unloader) responsible for regulating how far that butterfly valve in the carb closes when the choke is on. First make sure that the diaphragm contracts when vacuum is applied to it (the engine is cranked). That went out on me last winter and it was fairly cheap to replace. Mine didn't quit entirely, it was just getting weak and wouldn't hold the butterfly open. If it is working well, though, you adjust how far open the butterfly is by bending the metal rod connecting this choke unloader to the butterfly when the choke is on. BE CAREFUL because that rod will snap in half if you work it too much.

When the choke is operating correctly (trying to close the butterfly) and the unloader is correctly holding it open, you should have about 9/32" (7mm) clearance from being closed.
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