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Unread 01-05-2010, 01:43 PM   #1
82CJ_Chemist
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Carter BBD#2: won't idle when warmed up

I have a carter bbd that won't idle after the engine warms up...and also dies at stop signs. Seems like i need to clean idle tubes? Is that correct?

Also, does anyone out there have some good diagrams on the carter bbd so I can try tuning the thing up...setting fuel mixture at idle and adjust idle screw? I have searched internet but no good diagrams for beginners

What is the difference between the fast idle and idle set screw?????

Thanks!!

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Unread 01-05-2010, 04:18 PM   #2
JeepHammer
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It won't really matter what you do if you have a carb that looks like this on the inside...
That's why I always STRONGLY recommend a $13 rebuild kit when I hear things like this!




-----------------------------------------

Does this help explain the linkage and set screws a little better?



Now, remember,
You need to set the TIMING before you start all this,
Then you need to check the idle mixture screws to make sure they are EVEN and properly adjusted,

Then once that is done,
Try to set the CURB IDLE,
And the HIGH IDLE settings...

Also remember you only get one shot at the High Idle settings before the engine warms up and the choke pulls the high idle off...

You will often have to set the CURB IDLE,
Then allow the engine to cool down before trying again for the High Idle settings...

Here is another picture of the Idle Speed screws from a different angle...

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Unread 01-05-2010, 04:27 PM   #3
BioTex
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Here is a link that has great info on setting the carb.

Sol-Vac
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Unread 01-05-2010, 04:38 PM   #4
82CJ_Chemist
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THANKS Jeephammer and Biotex:

The linkage and set screw diagram helped a lot! The carb was rebuilt about 1.5 years ago and the jeep hasn't been driven much since. Course another rebuild might be necessary.

If the Solenoid vacuum is not hooked up and hasn't been for years i imagine and the little rubber gasket in front of idle adjust screw (which is missing!) is worn out.!

A mechanic at an offroad shop said the sol-vac was an anti diesel solonoid and was NOT needed. Is this true?

Looks like i have a host of issues...and may or may not have clogged idle tubes....
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Unread 01-05-2010, 04:52 PM   #5
82CJ_Chemist
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After looking at a wiring diagram i realize that the idle speed switch is destroyed which would not allow the carb solenoid to work even if it weren't hooked up. i could run a power wire to the solenoid though...

I admittedly took out the idle spd switch because at the time i thought it was part of some emissions system. The wiring is still there and I could wire it back up if i can buy a new idle spd switch.

Is there another way to make the carter work w/o all this wiring? I guess that's the blessings of the 80's!!

This carter is getting complicated and i know why others get rid of them now. Mine seems to work fine other than idle issues..
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Unread 01-06-2010, 05:35 AM   #6
BioTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82CJ_Chemist View Post
After looking at a wiring diagram i realize that the idle speed switch is destroyed which would not allow the carb solenoid to work even if it weren't hooked up. i could run a power wire to the solenoid though...

I admittedly took out the idle spd switch because at the time i thought it was part of some emissions system. The wiring is still there and I could wire it back up if i can buy a new idle spd switch.

Is there another way to make the carter work w/o all this wiring? I guess that's the blessings of the 80's!!

This carter is getting complicated and i know why others get rid of them now. Mine seems to work fine other than idle issues..
1-Drill out the idle tubes. (documented on this forum)
2-Perform the Nutter Bypass (documented on this forum)

The BBD is not that bad of a carb when properly set up.
The idle solonoid also helps keep the engine from dying when you suddenly let off the gas. The solonoid plunger holds the throttle open a tad longer.

I would drill out the tubes first, and then set the idle per that link I gave you, and see if you still have problems. Just cleaning the tubes will help for a Month or so. Also verify there is no vacuum leak. It would be wise to get a vacuum gauge and learn how to tune the carb with it. (also documented)

Once you get the fuel system working, then you can work over the ignition syastem with the Team Rush Upgrade. Guess what? (also documented)
Welcome to the world of CJ's
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Unread 01-06-2010, 06:29 AM   #7
Mike Romain
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I am up in Canada and none of the BBD's I have seen on CJ's except one automatic even had the screw installed for the sol vac. The automatic and AC use it to up the idle on Canadian CJ's. I have seen it hooked up on YJ 258's that get the higher emission packages.

I would do the test for the plugged idle tubes first, carefully look down the carb throat when running to see if you have drips of gas. If you do, the tubes have issues. Most of us that clean the tubes, also oversize the crimped end to 0.032" which stops them from plugging up again usually. Welding torch tip tools or dremil tool bits come this size. Here is a link on cleaning them:
Easy Fix for Jeep 258 Carter BBD Idle Problem - - Jeep at Off-Road.com

As others have mentioned, putting a kit in is a good idea and not too hard to do.

The Haynes manual also has good carb drawings and setup directions.

To set the base idle mix, I start with the screws about 5 turns out each. I then turn each in, in 1/4 turn increments with a rev of the gas to set them each time. I might have to adjust the idle speed screw while doing this to keep it at 650-700 rpm or so. When the last 1/4 turn makes the engine start to stumble, I then back off the screws 1/4 turn. This gives the 'best lean' idle mix. If going for ther emissions sniffer, I only back the screws off 1/8 turn.

Once this best lean idle mix is set, I then go after the fast idle setting. I do it on a fully warmed up engine and I set the fast idle screw on the second from the top step. I then turn it to get 1700 rpm. Doing this when fully warmed will end up with about 800 rpm when the engine first starts cold, eventually climbing up as it warms up. When it gets high and you tap the gas pedal, it drops down a step, then the speed comes up agan, then you tap the gas and it goes to idle.
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Unread 01-06-2010, 09:37 AM   #8
82CJ_Chemist
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Thanks everyone for the help. I definitely needed diagrams and help on how to set the idle!

I tried to do idle test last night, and did see gas dripping into one of the venturi chambers but not the other? Is that from the idle tubes (the ones with in the two screws closer to front of jeep)?

I will clean the idle tubes and then do a rebuild soon!

I am sorta scared to rebuild this carb since i've never done that before...guess i'll do some reading on basic carb operation first, then try it. I'll definitely learn a lot, which is part of the process!!


Do the carter bbd carbs that were put on Dodge 318 v8s and the venerable 225 slant six work on a jeep? They look like the same exact carb but maybe jets?? are different?
I've seen some for sale cheap and was thinking of investing in a spare in case I screw something up?
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Unread 01-07-2010, 06:23 AM   #9
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82CJ_Chemist View Post
Thanks everyone for the help. I definitely needed diagrams and help on how to set the idle!

I tried to do idle test last night, and did see gas dripping into one of the venturi chambers but not the other? Is that from the idle tubes (the ones with in the two screws closer to front of jeep)?
There are two idle tubes, one of yours is blocked by the sounds of it. The idle tubes are in the top center of the carb:
Easy Fix for Jeep 258 Carter BBD Idle Problem - - Jeep at Off-Road.com
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 05-29-2010, 11:55 PM   #10
lotharofthehill
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Thanks for the link. This is two I owe you guys. I recently filled up with 92#

Kwik Trip gas and had problems with inconsistent speeds. It would lurch and

wayne while keeping a steady throttle. Near the end of the tank it would stall

at stop lights and eventually wouldn't even maintain an idle at all. It would not

idle unless I maually set the idle cam to two steps. I cleaned the venturis
and

idle tubes with carb cleaner. I ran speaker wire, 2 or 3 pieces spun togther, in the

tubes and blasted the tubes and nozzles with carb cleaner, X3. Put it back

together and fast idled and curb idled perfectly.

Easy Fix for Jeep 258 Carter BBD Idle Problem - - Jeep at Off-Road.com

This link says it all, takes about an hour if your taking your time. I needed a

little help from a needle nose to remove the venturi from the carb body. I

also saw no gaskets. Not sure about that, but it works great. From now on

its BP 93#. No problems ever with that stuff.

Peace to the oil covered bird. Thanks for taking another one for the team!
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Unread 06-28-2010, 03:00 PM   #11
crzdmnky
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That site no longer works . I just recently rebuilt my carb, and it worked awesome! Then I went wheeling this weekend, and its crapping out on my again, tried a different ICM, so now I am positive its the carb again, I have the same symptoms as stated above, spuddering and dying at a stop.
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Unread 09-03-2010, 07:41 PM   #12
meramec
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Carter BBD: won't idle when warmed up

This site doesn't work anymore. Is there anywhere else to get this information?
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Unread 09-03-2010, 08:24 PM   #13
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82CJ_Chemist View Post
I've seen some for sale cheap and was thinking of investing in a spare in case I screw something up?
That's what I did when I rebuilt my BBD. It is very helpful to have a fully assembled unit on the bench to refer back to. The printed guides and manuals don't always have the detail needed for a first-timer.

I put together a step-by-step web page guide to rebuilding a BBD but it's only about 1/3 done I haven't had the energy to go back and finish it, but maybe this weekend since I have an extra day off.

Edit: oops.. I see I'm about 8 months late with my reply
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