Carb spacer need? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 11 Old 09-09-2013, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
wsmutch
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Carb spacer need?

When I first bought my jeep, about 4 months ago, I took it to a mechanic because it was running very poorly. I don,t usually go to this shop but it was convenient and they could take it at the time. When I got it back, it was running better but not great. They told me the intake gasket was leaking, and wanted over $400.00 to fix it. I thought the price was excessive, plus I didn't trust them so I said I didn't have the money (which I didn't). When I got home I found the carb spacer along with some other parts that they had removed. I took for granted that they had removed it for a reason, and I put it in the basement. I never throw away parts like this. Anyway now I read that this part should not have been removed. That it was there to keep the carb cooler, and it helps atomize the fuel? Should I put it back on? What gaskets do I need, and can I just block the port?

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post #2 of 11 Old 09-09-2013, 08:51 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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What carb are you running?

Please fill out your profile so we don't have to guess at your setup.

Matt
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post #3 of 11 Old 09-09-2013, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
wsmutch
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Sorry I thought I had updated. I have the stock 258 with a Motorcraft 2 barrel carb.
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post #4 of 11 Old 09-09-2013, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
wsmutch
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The spacer marked 289
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-09-2013, 11:54 AM
jeepwhore
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I don't use one with the MC2100 on my 4.2L. The adapter plate used to mount the MC isolates the carb more than the stock carb ever was and mine seems to run fine.

Maybe post up with what your jeep is doing and we can help isolate the issue. Typically, not having a spacer doesn't make a vehicle "run poorly". I'm guessing the issue is something else, although it could very well be fuel related.

'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her.
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post #6 of 11 Old 09-09-2013, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
wsmutch
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issues

Oh I've got lots of issues.....lots of issues. We are replacing the valve cover gasket Wednesday, clutch and throw out this weekend, intake gasket soon I hope. I start to sob when I think about the electrical system. She's got a beautiful body though and I love her.
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-09-2013, 12:11 PM
Texian
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Originally Posted by wsmutch View Post
Oh I've got lots of issues.....lots of issues. We are replacing the valve cover gasket Wednesday, clutch and throw out this weekend, intake gasket soon I hope. I start to sob when I think about the electrical system. She's got a beautiful body though and I love her.
Reminds me of a blonde girlfriend I had.
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post #8 of 11 Old 09-09-2013, 12:12 PM
jeepwhore
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Lol, ok. What are the issues regarding the poor running that relate to this thread? Does it idle fine but bogs under throttle? Does it not idle but runs fine with your foot to the floor? Is the idle through the roof? Dead spot in acceleration? Dies on deceleration?

C'mon man, details!

Sounds like you have a place to start (the intake gasket). Confirm it's leaking (if you don't know how just ask) and replace if needed. Then if it still runs poorly you can move to the next step in diagnosis.

'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her.
:-D
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post #9 of 11 Old 09-09-2013, 01:11 PM
uptillnow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmutch View Post
When I got home I found the carb spacer along with some other parts that they had removed. I took for granted that they had removed it for a reason, and I put it in the basement. I never throw away parts like this. Anyway now I read that this part should not have been removed. That it was there to keep the carb cooler, and it helps atomize the fuel? Should I put it back on? What gaskets do I need, and can I just block the port?
In the past, I have removed the "spacer" for some reason or other, and used the below 1/4" thick mounting gasket.

I would ask them why they removed the spacer. Possibly chasing the mysterious vacuum leak and came up with the intake leaking, which is very possible and not unusual.

I think I paid $3.00 for this base gasket 10 years ago or so, and I have 6 or 7 left over in my garage.

Previous post suggest start at the manifold and end up at the carburetor looking for leaks.

Good Luck..

UPTILLNOW
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post #10 of 11 Old 09-09-2013, 02:22 PM
LSUtiger
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I had a spacer like that on an old 304. I think it ws a 1972. Anyways. It's been awhile but pretty sure the pcv plugs into that. Where is your pcv plumbed to now?

1980 cj5 401, t-176, p/s., YJ p/b, tfi/hei hybrid, 3.73 30/44
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post #11 of 11 Old 09-09-2013, 02:39 PM
MoC
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Not needed. That spacer was stock with the older AMC V8's and never installed on a 258.
Furthermore you should have a similar spacer / adapter already, since the 2100/2150 carb you have was not designed to bolt to the 258 manifold. It's purpose is solely to mate the carb to manifold.

Only reason I could think it would be there is someone wanted it for a vac port. There are easier ways for an addition port, but who knows. Like someone else mentioned the shop likely took if off as a way to try to knock out a potential vac leak.

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