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Unread 09-22-2011, 12:55 PM   #16
mtnbikeidaho
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I used a variation of a nutsert called a weld-nut from McMaster-Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=e6c3n7

The 1/2" round-base fits right in the original frame hole and provides a 1"+ diameter integral washer to weld to the frame. The new 1/2 bolts would be stronger than stock, too. If you have to re-do, you can grind the welds off and put in another. (Preheating the frame with a MAPP torch helps tremendously with the welding of the different thicknesses - ask me how I know!)

The drawback is the nuts are no longer flush, so I had to shim my crossmember plate with washers on the ones that were still good. Turned out great.

Also, the strength difference in E70 (70ksi) weld vs. mild steel (A36) means you only have to get good penetration on "some" of it for it to stick. (1/8" fillet weld is good for 1600-1800# per inch of weld). Skerr's fix method will hold up forever unless you are a REALLY bad welder...

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Unread 09-22-2011, 01:40 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611
Scott something else that needs to be mentioned on this type of repair is making sure the welds penetrate almost completely through the frame. Here's why. The welds need to be ground flat with the bottom of the frame and if the welds don't have proper penetration they may not be strong enough to keep the weight of the transfer case/tranny from pulling the nuts out of the frame. After all they have quite a bity of weight to hold up. A good way to help out here is to grind the outside edges of the nut with a bevel. That way you have more weld in the area around the nut.
What Jim says, is why I didn't mention this in the other thread, I didn't know how thick your frame was, and not much room to weld to on the nut. On the plus side, with 6 bolts holding things up, and approximately 300 pounds total. ( my wag) Its only 50 per bolt.

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Unread 09-22-2011, 04:29 PM   #18
82JeepCJ7
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Great write up.

I had a few bolts twist off or strip out over time. My solution was to drill and tap some 1" wide, 1/2" thick flat bar about 2" long. I got rid of the nut in the frame with a 1" hole saw. I then drilled two 1/2" holes about a 1/2" to either side of the nut hole. I fished the flat bar down in to the frame from one of the many factory holes. Once I got the flat bar into place, I welded around the hole and the two plug welds. Ground it all smooth and painted.

By the way, a wire snake works great for this!
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Unread 09-23-2011, 06:12 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnbikeidaho View Post
I used a variation of a nutsert called a weld-nut from McMaster-Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=e6c3n7

The 1/2" round-base fits right in the original frame hole and provides a 1"+ diameter integral washer to weld to the frame. The new 1/2 bolts would be stronger than stock, too. If you have to re-do, you can grind the welds off and put in another. (Preheating the frame with a MAPP torch helps tremendously with the welding of the different thicknesses - ask me how I know!)

The drawback is the nuts are no longer flush, so I had to shim my crossmember plate with washers on the ones that were still good. Turned out great.

Also, the strength difference in E70 (70ksi) weld vs. mild steel (A36) means you only have to get good penetration on "some" of it for it to stick. (1/8" fillet weld is good for 1600-1800# per inch of weld). Skerr's fix method will hold up forever unless you are a REALLY bad welder...
Sounds like a good fix. How thick is weldable flange on the nutsert?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
What Jim says, is why I didn't mention this in the other thread, I didn't know how thick your frame was, and not much room to weld to on the nut. On the plus side, with 6 bolts holding things up, and approximately 300 pounds total. ( my wag) Its only 50 per bolt.

Bill
Jim's point is a good one. You would definitely have to make good welds. One could leave the nut slightly protruding and weld it in. It would be easier to do, I think.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
Great write up.

I had a few bolts twist off or strip out over time. My solution was to drill and tap some 1" wide, 1/2" thick flat bar about 2" long. I got rid of the nut in the frame with a 1" hole saw. I then drilled two 1/2" holes about a 1/2" to either side of the nut hole. I fished the flat bar down in to the frame from one of the many factory holes. Once I got the flat bar into place, I welded around the hole and the two plug welds. Ground it all smooth and painted.

By the way, a wire snake works great for this!
This also sounds like a good fix. Lots of variations I hadn't thought of...
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Unread 09-23-2011, 09:09 PM   #20
mtnbikeidaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Sounds like a good fix. How thick is weldable flange on the nutsert?
It's about this thick: 3/32" to 1/8" for the 1/2"-13 size
100_1975sm.jpg   100_1974sm.jpg  
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Unread 10-03-2011, 05:56 PM   #21
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Great write up!! I used this this afternoon with one addition. I drilled some holes around the nut to increase the weld strength. Just don't do what I did, you can kinda see in the second picture where I got a little hammer happy and bent the frame inwards. oops


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Unread 10-03-2011, 06:24 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bojon View Post
Great write up!! I used this this afternoon with one addition. I drilled some holes around the nut to increase the weld strength. Just don't do what I did, you can kinda see in the second picture where I got a little hammer happy and bent the frame inwards. oops

Beautiful job, Jered! Thanks for posting that up. And good idea about the additional holes.
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Unread 10-03-2011, 09:48 PM   #23
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Nice post, I might have to do this.

I broke this nut off when removing the power steering gear box.

I have not gotten back to it yet to try and remove it.

I have been soaking it with PB Blaster.

This weekend I will hit the frame around it with some heat and then water to try an break the rust, and then cross my fingers and try and turn it out with vise grips. If that does not work I will grind it flush and drill and tap. If that doesn't work I will use your method.
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Unread 10-03-2011, 10:12 PM   #24
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I know a guy that just got a piece of 1/2" x 1 1/2" flat stock, drilled and tapped holes in it and welded it to the bottom of the frame. Worked out fine for him since he had his skid plate shimmed down anyway to correct U joint angles.
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Unread 10-04-2011, 04:19 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80cj View Post
I know a guy that just got a piece of 1/2" x 1 1/2" flat stock, drilled and tapped holes in it and welded it to the bottom of the frame. Worked out fine for him since he had his skid plate shimmed down anyway to correct U joint angles.
Bob, that makes perfect sense and would probably have been a smart fix in my case... but I thought of it after the fact. I'm slow that way! You should have told me before I had to do it!!
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Unread 10-04-2011, 05:44 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
I'm slow that way! You should have told me before I had to do it!!
Don't feel bad. I stripped out 2 nuts on my skidplate last year, and my solution was to drill them out, and then drill a matching hole on the TOP of the frame.

So I then use a huge bolt (6"?) that goes completely through the frame, so I can use a nut on the top.

It occurred to me that this is going to stress the frame in weird ways, and its going to make any crack bigger..... but reading this thread makes me realize I should have welded in a new nut. That weldable nutsert looks like the easiest way?
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Unread 10-04-2011, 10:29 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hp_lovecraft View Post
Don't feel bad. I stripped out 2 nuts on my skidplate last year, and my solution was to drill them out, and then drill a matching hole on the TOP of the frame.

So I then use a huge bolt (6"?) that goes completely through the frame, so I can use a nut on the top.

It occurred to me that this is going to stress the frame in weird ways, and its going to make any crack bigger..... but reading this thread makes me realize I should have welded in a new nut. That weldable nutsert looks like the easiest way?
I have to agree the nutsert looks like a mightly convenient way to fix it. It's not too late for you to make that repair!!
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