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Unread 09-21-2011, 01:56 PM   #1
Skerr
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Captured Nut Repair- Frame

I had to replace a couple of captured nuts on my fame for the transmission crossmember. I showed this in my build thread, but it's been many pages ago! I thought I would do a thread in case anyone was interested. This process works very well and eliminates the need to cut a hole in your frame. It's easy and you don't need a lot of experience to be successful. In this demo I was on my creeper looking up. The hardest part for me was overhead welding! Just take your time, be GENTLE, and it will come out great.

I hope this is useful to somebody.


These two nuts are stripped. I stripped them out while torquing them after reinstalling my crossmember. Glad it happened now! These are the two closest to the front spring hanger at the rearend.


Grind off the old paint.


I'm using the stripped factory nut to hold this bolt with the new nut in place.


Using a Sharpie, mark the lobes of the new nut.


Remove the bolt and nut... this is what you have.


I had to sharpen my chisel! Notch the hole at each lobe. The factory nuts broke out while notching.


After notching the lobes.


I tried to use my air chisel, but it didn't work for me. If you try this, go slow! Don't cut TOO much.


Hold the new nut in place. The bolt is nothing more than a handle at this point.


Using my shop hammer (3#) I carefully beat the nut into the notched hole. You can sort of "feel " the nut as it countersinks. Be careful NOT to knock the nut into the frame. If you do that, unscrew the bolt and get another nut!


The new nut is countersunk to the desired depth.


Leave the bolt in place while welding to protect the nut threads. You will probably have to clean the threads with a tap when you finish.


Welded and ground down.


Primed


Painted and done. When paint dries I can bolt my crossmember back up. The whole thing took me about an hour and a half.



I hope this is helpful to somebody! Good luck. PM me if you have questions.

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Unread 09-21-2011, 02:11 PM   #2
FLynes
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Great write up, Scott! I know I have some bolts missing from my crossmember, so now that the powerplant and tranny are out, I can crawl under and look to see what kind of mess I have and use your thread to redo mine, if needed.
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Unread 09-21-2011, 02:18 PM   #3
Jim1611
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Hey if you put a flat washer in bewteen the nuts you don't have to worry about driving it in too far.

That turned out really nice.
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Unread 09-21-2011, 02:23 PM   #4
CJ7ROB
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Yea this is good. I need to do this for one of mine, except the nut just spins in the frame so I had to cut the bolt head off.
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Unread 09-21-2011, 02:24 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLynes View Post
Great write up, Scott! I know I have some bolts missing from my crossmember, so now that the powerplant and tranny are out, I can crawl under and look to see what kind of mess I have and use your thread to redo mine, if needed.
Thanks, Fred. If you can do the repair from above it will be eaiser. Don't know if your frame is stripped down that far yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Hey if you put a flat washer in bewteen the nuts you don't have to worry about driving it in too far.

That turned out really nice.
That's a GREAT idea, Jim. It would set the nut at the correct depth. Hadn't thought to do that.
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Unread 09-21-2011, 02:35 PM   #6
FLynes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Thanks, Fred. If you can do the repair from above it will be eaiser. Don't know if your frame is stripped down that far yet.
It's getting there...I've had long work days this week and just haven't felt like doing much. I still need to finish taking the short block apart, so I can hot tank the engine and mike it to figure out how much I need to hone or bore. The frame is still rolling, for the moment, but I want to take the axles out this weekend and put it on jackstands. If there any repairs to be made, it would make sense to do them, before I get it blasted.
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Unread 09-21-2011, 03:36 PM   #7
Skerr
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Originally Posted by CJ7ROB View Post
Yea this is good. I need to do this for one of mine, except the nut just spins in the frame so I had to cut the bolt head off.
Rob, in your case, since you don't have the factory nut to hold the bolt, you will need to hold the nut in place with the bolt, then mark the lobes.
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Unread 09-21-2011, 04:25 PM   #8
agear
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I think I gotta couple loose nuts(captured). I'm might be able to use this
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Unread 09-21-2011, 04:48 PM   #9
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Great job Scott!!

ps - Really enjoyed talking with you the other day!
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Unread 09-21-2011, 05:29 PM   #10
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Scott something else that needs to be mentioned on this type of repair is making sure the welds penetrate almost completely through the frame. Here's why. The welds need to be ground flat with the bottom of the frame and if the welds don't have proper penetration they may not be strong enough to keep the weight of the transfer case/tranny from pulling the nuts out of the frame. After all they have quite a bity of weight to hold up. A good way to help out here is to grind the outside edges of the nut with a bevel. That way you have more weld in the area around the nut.
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Unread 09-21-2011, 06:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611 View Post
Scott something else that needs to be mentioned on this type of repair is making sure the welds penetrate almost completely through the frame. Here's why. The welds need to be ground flat with the bottom of the frame and if the welds don't have proper penetration they may not be strong enough to keep the weight of the transfer case/tranny from pulling the nuts out of the frame. After all they have quite a bity of weight to hold up. A good way to help out here is to grind the outside edges of the nut with a bevel. That way you have more weld in the area around the nut.
That would be exactly my worry. Me being a self taught welder trying to get good penetration on a overhead weld. What if one welded pieces of 1/2 inch flat bar down the side of the frame and across the bottom and then tapped new holes. I could probably do a decent job of this. This would drop the tranny an additional 1/2 but is that a big deal?
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Unread 09-21-2011, 07:38 PM   #12
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Nice job.
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Unread 09-22-2011, 12:36 PM   #13
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This is a great Idea, as long as you get good penatration in the frame. As mentioned before, it is holding up pretty much the tcase,tranny and somewhat the motor. If the welds break, it would be a mess.
Not trying to steel the thread, but has anyone tried nutserts ? They have some that actually would spread on the inside of the frame and be pretty much perminent. They also have ones that would spread inside the frame as you tighten, but would retract as you loosen. I was thinking of trying them but got impatient and just welded a coulple pcs of angle iron to my crossmember, then thru bolting them thru the frame. I am not restoring mine, so I wasnt looking for pretty.
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Unread 09-22-2011, 12:51 PM   #14
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I had asked the local bolt and nut house about nutserts, because I was trying to figure out how to bolt the rear of a winch plate down when it comes time for that. He said they are aluminum, so they wouldn't be a good idea for a winch plate - they'd probably pull right out. Are there any that aren't aluminum?
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Unread 09-22-2011, 12:54 PM   #15
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cr@p. I hope I don't have to do this. Looks great Scott!
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