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Unread 11-22-2013, 06:59 PM   #1
tdkask
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Can't stay low enough. ???

I have an unusual problem in the Jeep world... I don't want my Jeep any higher than it sits.

I have 4" lift springs and am running 33's ATM. I intend to go to 37's as soon as I install my HPD44/Ford 9" combo, and have an issue.

Basically, the D44 is trussed and therefor has about 2" extra material above tube at frame. I don't want to go to more lift or longer shackles or anything, and definitely don't want to go SOA... way too much lift even if I go to stock YJ springs. I will run a high line fender/hood combo, and don't need more lift to get to 37's and not rub. I hope to go 4" up travel and 6" down travel and keep my COG where it is now. My problem is that at 4" up travel the truss will meet the frame. I'm looking for suggestions. Right now I only have thought of notching frame or ditching truss or add lift.

Any ideas or input, especially pictures, would be appreciated. Thanks.


here is the truss that has been pieced on.



.

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'80 CJ7__258, TF999, D300__'86 CJ WT D44/D30's(3.54s)__GPF custom front/rear bumpers
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Unread 11-22-2013, 08:04 PM   #2
brownbagg
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cut the fenders. get flat fenders for front and those metal panels for rear
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Unread 11-22-2013, 08:52 PM   #3
twinstickd20
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Cut the truss down or even build a new lower profile one.
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Unread 11-22-2013, 08:57 PM   #4
CSP
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Ditch the box tubing and build a truss that conforms better to the axle's natural shape.

Unless you're getting airborne there's really no need for a truss to begin with.
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Unread 11-22-2013, 10:10 PM   #5
JRPettet
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Agreed,
Ditch the truss. If you are serious about good suspension travel and low center of gravity you will have to modify the frame.
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Unread 11-22-2013, 10:11 PM   #6
tdkask
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I do bounce it off a hill or two every once in a while.

I want a truss, and don't know if I can cut it down much and still have a truss since the diff is so close to the frame.

I am considering notching and re-enforcing the frame above the axle.

Cutting the fenders more (and I will be) won't change the clearance between axle and frame.

If I run 10" shocks and get 4" up and 6" down I'll be good, but will only have max 4" between axle and frame as it is right now.
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Unread 11-22-2013, 10:27 PM   #7
tdkask
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I just went and measured everything out again. At ride height there will be approximately 4.5" between truss and frame. Basically, I'd have no room for bump stops to protect the shocks, really. I may be able to bump stop outside frame easily enough. Shocks will be on hoops, so maybe have enough room, especially with the full width axles.
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'80 CJ7__258, TF999, D300__'86 CJ WT D44/D30's(3.54s)__GPF custom front/rear bumpers
4" springs__33x15s on black steelies__Galaxy DX959 CB__Cage (built onto YJ "family" bar)
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Unread 11-23-2013, 09:09 AM   #8
JeepHammer
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I don't think that's unusual...
The lower the center of gravity, the better the vehicle goes down the road and trail...

Normally, you will need about 4" above axle to frame contact (BUMPSTOP!) without bottoming out the shocks.
Bottoming out shocks is the easiest way to ruin/break shocks I know of, so use bumpstops to keep that from happening.

DROOP is the big deal, and limiting straps to keep shocks from overextending is a priority if you don't have leaf springs to do that...

I have to agree, if you have really large tires with moderate or no lift, then cutting the fenders is about the only way to keep tires out of body...

You *CAN* notch the frame for your trusses, but you will have to be VERY CAREFUL about reinforcing the area once you cut into the frame... And in the front I would think clearing the oil pan would be an issue, so bump stops become critical again...
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Unread 11-23-2013, 05:24 PM   #9
BESRK
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Gotta agree with CSP with the "ditch it or cut it down" recommendation. I don't think the benefit of that tall truss outweighs the downside of hacking into the frame.

A front D44 axle will take quite a bit of abuse without bending... certainly some moderate bouncing. You'd be more likely to destroy a hub or break a shaft/ujoint before bending the axle housing.
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Unread 11-23-2013, 05:25 PM   #10
MoC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by besrk
gotta agree with csp with the "ditch it or cut it down" recommendation. I don't think the benefit of that tall truss outweighs the downside of hacking into the frame. A front d44 axle will take quite a bit of abuse without bending... Certainly some moderate bouncing. You'd be more likely to destroy a hub or break a shaft/ujoint before bending the axle housing.
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Unread 11-23-2013, 08:02 PM   #11
tdkask
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I think maybe I'll drop 1" out of the truss at that point and MAYBE notch 1/2" into frame, then put in a 2" rubber block for bump stop. Or maybe suck it up and go with 1/2" more lift. I'm going to put the perch as close to the tube as possible and still clearance the leaf center pin bolt. My long side tube is 1/2" tube, short side is just 1/4", thus the reason for the truss. I'm sure this axle will hold 37's as well as my LP D30 holds 33's.
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USN Jeep Club Hull #135 (Retired USN 1992-2012)
'80 CJ7__258, TF999, D300__'86 CJ WT D44/D30's(3.54s)__GPF custom front/rear bumpers
4" springs__33x15s on black steelies__Galaxy DX959 CB__Cage (built onto YJ "family" bar)
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