Can't stay low enough. ??? - JeepForum.com

 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 11 Old 11-22-2013, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
tdkask
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: St. Marys / Kingsland / Kings Bay GA
Posts: 574
Can't stay low enough. ???

I have an unusual problem in the Jeep world... I don't want my Jeep any higher than it sits.

I have 4" lift springs and am running 33's ATM. I intend to go to 37's as soon as I install my HPD44/Ford 9" combo, and have an issue.

Basically, the D44 is trussed and therefor has about 2" extra material above tube at frame. I don't want to go to more lift or longer shackles or anything, and definitely don't want to go SOA... way too much lift even if I go to stock YJ springs. I will run a high line fender/hood combo, and don't need more lift to get to 37's and not rub. I hope to go 4" up travel and 6" down travel and keep my COG where it is now. My problem is that at 4" up travel the truss will meet the frame. I'm looking for suggestions. Right now I only have thought of notching frame or ditching truss or add lift.

Any ideas or input, especially pictures, would be appreciated. Thanks.


here is the truss that has been pieced on.



.


80 CJ7_360_32RH_D300_44/9"(4.56)_custom bumpers/cage
4" lift,tube fenders,comp cut_37s on H1 rims
tdkask is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 Old 11-22-2013, 08:04 PM
brownbagg
Registered User
1930 MK Compass 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: pearl
Posts: 2,471
cut the fenders. get flat fenders for front and those metal panels for rear
brownbagg is offline  
post #3 of 11 Old 11-22-2013, 08:52 PM
twinstickd20
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: nashville
Posts: 1,898
Cut the truss down or even build a new lower profile one.
twinstickd20 is offline  
post #4 of 11 Old 11-22-2013, 08:57 PM
CSP
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Colorado
Posts: 15,514
Ditch the box tubing and build a truss that conforms better to the axle's natural shape.

Unless you're getting airborne there's really no need for a truss to begin with.
CSP is online now  
post #5 of 11 Old 11-22-2013, 10:10 PM
JRPettet
Registered User
1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Idaho Falls
Posts: 15
Agreed,
Ditch the truss. If you are serious about good suspension travel and low center of gravity you will have to modify the frame.
JRPettet is offline  
post #6 of 11 Old 11-22-2013, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
tdkask
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: St. Marys / Kingsland / Kings Bay GA
Posts: 574
I do bounce it off a hill or two every once in a while.

I want a truss, and don't know if I can cut it down much and still have a truss since the diff is so close to the frame.

I am considering notching and re-enforcing the frame above the axle.

Cutting the fenders more (and I will be) won't change the clearance between axle and frame.

If I run 10" shocks and get 4" up and 6" down I'll be good, but will only have max 4" between axle and frame as it is right now.
tdkask is offline  
post #7 of 11 Old 11-22-2013, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
tdkask
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: St. Marys / Kingsland / Kings Bay GA
Posts: 574
I just went and measured everything out again. At ride height there will be approximately 4.5" between truss and frame. Basically, I'd have no room for bump stops to protect the shocks, really. I may be able to bump stop outside frame easily enough. Shocks will be on hoops, so maybe have enough room, especially with the full width axles.

80 CJ7_360_32RH_D300_44/9"(4.56)_custom bumpers/cage
4" lift,tube fenders,comp cut_37s on H1 rims
tdkask is offline  
post #8 of 11 Old 11-23-2013, 09:09 AM
JeepHammer
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 11,180
I don't think that's unusual...
The lower the center of gravity, the better the vehicle goes down the road and trail...

Normally, you will need about 4" above axle to frame contact (BUMPSTOP!) without bottoming out the shocks.
Bottoming out shocks is the easiest way to ruin/break shocks I know of, so use bumpstops to keep that from happening.

DROOP is the big deal, and limiting straps to keep shocks from overextending is a priority if you don't have leaf springs to do that...

I have to agree, if you have really large tires with moderate or no lift, then cutting the fenders is about the only way to keep tires out of body...

You *CAN* notch the frame for your trusses, but you will have to be VERY CAREFUL about reinforcing the area once you cut into the frame... And in the front I would think clearing the oil pan would be an issue, so bump stops become critical again...
JeepHammer is offline  
post #9 of 11 Old 11-23-2013, 05:24 PM
BESRK
GROUND POUNDER
 
BESRK's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 12,285
Gotta agree with CSP with the "ditch it or cut it down" recommendation. I don't think the benefit of that tall truss outweighs the downside of hacking into the frame.

A front D44 axle will take quite a bit of abuse without bending... certainly some moderate bouncing. You'd be more likely to destroy a hub or break a shaft/ujoint before bending the axle housing.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

More Crozet
BESRK is offline  
post #10 of 11 Old 11-23-2013, 05:25 PM
MoC
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The otherside of your monitor...
Posts: 5,656
Quote:
Originally Posted by besrk
gotta agree with csp with the "ditch it or cut it down" recommendation. I don't think the benefit of that tall truss outweighs the downside of hacking into the frame. A front d44 axle will take quite a bit of abuse without bending... Certainly some moderate bouncing. You'd be more likely to destroy a hub or break a shaft/ujoint before bending the axle housing.
x3

Under A Sun Thats See It All Before...
MoC is offline  
post #11 of 11 Old 11-23-2013, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
tdkask
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: St. Marys / Kingsland / Kings Bay GA
Posts: 574
I think maybe I'll drop 1" out of the truss at that point and MAYBE notch 1/2" into frame, then put in a 2" rubber block for bump stop. Or maybe suck it up and go with 1/2" more lift. I'm going to put the perch as close to the tube as possible and still clearance the leaf center pin bolt. My long side tube is 1/2" tube, short side is just 1/4", thus the reason for the truss. I'm sure this axle will hold 37's as well as my LP D30 holds 33's.

80 CJ7_360_32RH_D300_44/9"(4.56)_custom bumpers/cage
4" lift,tube fenders,comp cut_37s on H1 rims
tdkask is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome