[Daladim]

What I'm looking for is a list of tools needed for basic upkeep and maintenance of my '82 CJ7. I am wondering about which wrenches, sockets, torx bits, alan wrenches, and so forth I will need to work on this Jeep.

I am not looking for a list that includes basic tools that are used on every vehicle, i.e. spark plug gappers, oil filter wrenches, and more complex tools for in depth engine, axle, and transmission repairs.

What I am looking to do is streamline my toolbox so that I have only the tools needed for working on the CJ, and nothing extra to clutter up the box and add weight to it.

In other words, if the Jeep requires all standard sockets except for 7/16, then I won't put that particular socket in my tool box. Or if it requires a 3/8, a 5/16, and a 3/4 inch deep well socket, then I won't buy a complete set. This would apply to all other tools in my box as well.

It may well be more expensive, but I plan on buying my tools as single pieces, so that I am not getting things that I will never use. If it happens though that my Jeep will require every socket from 1/4 up to 15/16, then I will purchase the whole set.

I know there are people out there that have torn their CJ7 down to the frame and put it all back together again, so there must be somebody familiar with the specific tools needed for the job of turning all those nuts, bolts, and screws.

Like I said, the list does not need to include those tools that are for advanced mechanics, or tools that would be obvious, like the spark plug gapper, oil filter wrench, misc. hammers and screw drivers, wrench extensions and so on. All I need is the wrenches, sockets, alan wrenches, and torx bits, and any other tools that may not be obvious to a novice mechanic.

Thank you very much for your help

P.S. I know there will possibly be questions as to the rationality of this decision, and some may point out that it could cause problems if I run into a situation where I need to use my tools on something that isn't a CJ7. I also have a basic roadside assistance kit that has a full set of standard and metric sockets and wrenches, along with the most common deep wells and other miscellaneous tools. The toolbox I am building here will just be designated for use with the CJ and become a permanent fixture either in the cab or under the hood.

[sbcranger]

just a tad bit of advice its insane to buy your tools piece by piece. and depending on what you are going to be tackling you will need different tools. and its way easier to have everything around and not need it then be under the truck at 10:30pm and not be able to get the one stupid thing that you dont have.

with that said this is a good way to start:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00934260000P?adCell=W3

and grab a set of torx sockets and youll be on your way to a toolbox to tackle most jobs.

[Daladim]

Originally Posted by sbcranger

just a tad bit of advice its insane to buy your tools piece by piece. and depending on what you are going to be tackling you will need different tools. and its way easier to have everything around and not need it then be under the truck at 10:30pm and not be able to get the one stupid thing that you dont have.

with that said this is a good way to start:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00934260000P?adCell=W3

and grab a set of torx sockets and youll be on your way to a toolbox to tackle most jobs.

That's not quite what I was looking for, but I must say, that is most definitely one impressive tool kit! I really do like it. Seriously, tools are to me as crack is to an addict. I'm drooling right now.

Which is part of the reason I want to limit the tools I carry with me.

I really can't imagine the CJ requiring 260 different tools. Man, if I had that set, I'd be taking everything apart. Imagine how the neighbors would feel about that...



I'm bookmarking that page for a possible purchase. If a can't fight the urge, I'll own that soon.

[Darthteddy]

Dont know the sizes your looking for but I know your exact reasoning.

We do the same thing with Aviation Tool Boxes. No sense having a giant tool box full of stuff you never use instead of a small box and you use every one. Kinda like Line Maintenance.

[only in a jeep cj]

Although I would carry a full range of sockets and box ends from 1/4 to 1 inch, I would say the MOST used size on a later CJ is the 1/2 and 9/16. Also the extensions and swivels too. Larger bolts such as the main eye mounts at the springs get you in the 15/16 and 7/8 range. Torx bolts are mainly in and around the body, so a full set is needed there. Take note as the dash torx is 27 (NOT 25) and some sets don't have that size. # 2 phillips will do for most of the phillips screws untill you get to the drums where a #3 is almost a must. A few Vise grip pliers will come in handy too. I would also have small items like a small flat blade screwdrivers for prying plugs or a cotter pin tool for way more than just cotter pins. A basic volt meter is a good tool to carry too.

[Targetsfromus]

Originally Posted by Daladim

What I'm looking for is a list of tools needed for basic upkeep and maintenance of my '82 CJ7. I am wondering about which wrenches, sockets, torx bits, alan wrenches, and so forth I will need to work on this Jeep.

I am not looking for a list that includes basic tools that are used on every vehicle, i.e. spark plug gappers, oil filter wrenches, and more complex tools for in depth engine, axle, and transmission repairs.

What I am looking to do is streamline my toolbox so that I have only the tools needed for working on the CJ, and nothing extra to clutter up the box and add weight to it.

In other words, if the Jeep requires all standard sockets except for 7/16, then I won't put that particular socket in my tool box. Or if it requires a 3/8, a 5/16, and a 3/4 inch deep well socket, then I won't buy a complete set. This would apply to all other tools in my box as well.

It may well be more expensive, but I plan on buying my tools as single pieces, so that I am not getting things that I will never use. If it happens though that my Jeep will require every socket from 1/4 up to 15/16, then I will purchase the whole set.

I know there are people out there that have torn their CJ7 down to the frame and put it all back together again, so there must be somebody familiar with the specific tools needed for the job of turning all those nuts, bolts, and screws.

Like I said, the list does not need to include those tools that are for advanced mechanics, or tools that would be obvious, like the spark plug gapper, oil filter wrench, misc. hammers and screw drivers, wrench extensions and so on. All I need is the wrenches, sockets, alan wrenches, and torx bits, and any other tools that may not be obvious to a novice mechanic.

Thank you very much for your help

P.S. I know there will possibly be questions as to the rationality of this decision, and some may point out that it could cause problems if I run into a situation where I need to use my tools on something that isn't a CJ7. I also have a basic roadside assistance kit that has a full set of standard and metric sockets and wrenches, along with the most common deep wells and other miscellaneous tools. The toolbox I am building here will just be designated for use with the CJ and become a permanent fixture either in the cab or under the hood.

unless you own an unmolested stock CJ you are probablly the only one who can answer your question. I am a profesional diesel mechanic so I own two of everything and my trail kit is quite extensive. But I bring tools to maintain anything that may get in my way IE other peoples rigs broken on the trail

[CJ Chet]

A gallon can of PB Blaster!!!!!!!!!!

[halpeters]

The Sears kit listed above is going to be half metric, which you won't need (although there is the odd metric bolt on a Jeep....). You can find smaller kits that are fractional only, so you can save some money there.

Even though you are wanting to "pick" what to buy, check the prices on the kits, and you will find it cheaper to buy a big kit of tools, and just pick out what you want to carry. Buy the kit, use it for a year, then pull out all the pieces that are still clean.

2x on the PB Blaster, and don't forget a big tub of antiseeze (the silver looking goo) for putting stuff back together. Use it on EVERYTHING!!!

[JeepHammer]

Other than basic hand tools,
Sockets sets, wrenches, screwdrivers, selection of common pliers, ect.

You will need things like,

Allen Wrenches,
Torx Wrenches,
Snap Ring pliers,
Spindle Nut Socket 2-1/8" thin wall,
6" 'C' clamp,
Jack Stands,
Small hydraulic 'Floor' jack,
Line Wrenches (Brake Lines)
Punches, Chisels, Hammers (Hard & Soft face)

If you intend to do wheel bearings and the like,
Bearing drivers or brass 'Drift' (a round brass bar or 'Punch', NEVER USE STEEL ON BEARINGS!)

For instance, I have Warn Premium hubs on my Jeep,
And I need a 3/4" deep well socket and extension to get the lug nuts off,
Then takes a small Allen wrench to get the switch cap off,
Takes a 9/16" socket and extension to get the lockout body off the hub,
Takes a set of snap ring pliers to get the snap ring off the axle without ruining it,
Then takes a punch and hammer to straighten out the lock washer over the outside spindle/hub nut,
Then takes a 2-1/8" thin walled socket to get the spindle nuts off,
Then you need a 1/4" Allen wrench, punch and hammer to get the brake caliper off the brake rotor,
Then you need the 2-18" thinwall socket again to get the inside wheel bearing preload nut loose,

Then the hub/rotor/wheel bearings will pull off the spindle.

Then you need a deep well 9/16" socket & extension to get the 6 spindle bolts loose,
And a spindle puller of some sort to get the spindle off the steering knuckle.

During that, you will also probably want to use hammer/chisel/pry bar to get the brake dust shield separated from the spindle/steering knuckle since they rust on there pretty good and put up a good fight!

Spindles can be pulled in a few different ways,
But the easiest I've seen is an actual spindle puller (OTC Tools) and a slide hammer.
A soft dead blow hammer might be necessary to help knock the spindle loose without ruining threads...
They rust in pretty good sometimes!

Once the spindle is pulled, you can pull the axle out of the axle housing...

Then on reassembly, you will need a TORQUE WRENCH, no 'If's, Ands, Or's Or Butts' about it!

If you decide to do ball studs on the steering knuckle,
Then you will need a specialty socket for the top threaded split ring.
Not expensive, but you MUST have one to properly torque the new split ring into place.

If you decide to do steering components, you will need a 'Pickle Fork' type ball joint and tie rod end separator.

Nothing but the Torque Wrench is particularly expensive,
And there are some particulars you need to know,
Like getting a good quality pair of snap ring pliers with changeable tips and can convert from 'Inside' to 'Outside' snap rings so you don't have to have several pair...

You will need a set of snap ring pliers and a 6" 'C' clamp to replace U joints in the axle if they are 'Bad'...

Cheap torque wrenches are worth absolutely NOTHING,

Get a 'Sears' 1/2" drive, adjustable 'Clicker' type or better.
Tool sale and 'Discount' sore brands aren't worth the packaging they are in, so don't even bother,
And DO NOT forget to let the pressure off the adjuster on the torque wrench as soon as you are done using it,
BUY THE CASE FOR YOUR WRENCH!
They are worth their weight in GOLD to keep the wrench from getting knocked around!

Three things every Jeep owner should have and know how to use...
1. A long handle 1/2" drive ratchet with a lifetime warranty,
You WILL be using a 'Cheater Pipe' on that handle from time to time, so a LIFETIME warranty from someplace that doesn't ask questions is a MUST... (Sears for one...)
Sears Item# 00944816000 | Model# 44816



.........................

2. 1/2" drive IMPACT DRIVER...
Works like a Impact Wrench, but you don't need an air supply to use it, just a hammer, and it doesn't take up much space in the tool bag.
Once you learn how to use one, you will not know how you ever got by without one!
Sears Item# 00947641000 Model# 47641



Don't forget IMPACT SOCKETS or you will be trading in broken sockets all the time!
This thing can REALLY put the torque on rusted/stubborn bolts!

........................

3. A good set of rounded/rusted bolt/nut removers.
Anyone that hasn't had to do battle with rusted, chewed up or rounded bolts/nuts has never worked on their own vehicle!
Some of the smaller removers for screws isn't a bad idea either.
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100513

[Redmanchew]

DItto hammers write up....
one of the wierd things i found that cost me a trip to sears was the U joint straps were 12 point 1/4" and all the 1/4" sockets i had were 6 point.

[Daladim]

Thanks for the great info guys, but what about the nuts and bolts on the 258? What sizes of torx do I need for body parts and other stuff? Specialty wrenches for those tight spots like the nuts on the speedo? Bolt sizes for the dif covers, or the tranny and t-case housing? What size are the bolts holding the seats to the floor, or the seatbelts for that matter? How about the roll bar? The gas tank?

These are the kind of sockets and wrenches I speak of. Right now, I am honestly not advanced in my mechanic skills enough to deal with axle repairs and rebuilding the drive train parts. Nor do I have a shop to do this kind of work. Hell, I don't even have my own home for that matter. So my personal wrench turning is going to be limited for a while. The thing I need is to be able to have the tools to replace things like the power steering pump if the need arises, or to install a new sending unit into my gas tank, which of course needs to be done.

There are a few items that you guys have listed here that I never did think about, and I can see will be necessities, But a list of socket and wrench sizes is the main thing I am looking for. Now that I know I will not need any metric tools, that will definitely narrow down the amount of tools I end up buying. That's kind of the info I am looking for here.

So, are all sizes of standard nuts and bolts from 1/4 up to 15/16(possibly larger?) present on this CJ7, or are there some sizes I will never use? And what about torx and alan wrenches? Are all different sizes present as well?

I want to make sure that I have the tools I need in case of an emergency roadside repair like replacing a radiator hose or removing the carburetor to fix a problem, or loosening a bolt to replace a broken fan belt. That kind of stuff will be most important in the short term, as this rig will be seeing mostly pavement until I can afford to upgrade the suspension and tires. I want to reduce size and weight of my tool box, because of a lack of room in the Jeep. And aside from the seriously rare circumstance, I don't really foresee a major component breaking on this thing. I could be wrong, but it is my experience that the parts most likely to break on a vehicle that sees mostly road use is usually under the hood, or involving electrical.

The only times I have ever broken u-joints or hubs, or busted up other drivetrain parts was when putting excessive stress on a vehicle in offroad situations. I know that breakage is always a possibility with any part on such an old vehicle, and I don't have any experience with this Jeep yet, so don't have a firm understanding of it's condition, but I want to make sure that I cover the main bases of tool sizes to begin with, and then buy the other goodies like the tork wrench or snap ring pliers.

I understand perfectly well that these things will be necessary in the future, especially if I plan on working on my own rig, but for now I am building the core of the tool box.

Thank you all for your help, and especially Jeephammer. I thank you for informing me of the impact driver and nut removers specifically. The need never crossed my mind at all, but I know for a fact that I will need those!

[jeepinarkansas]

Start working on the jeep and take notes on what you use. Unless your the original owner you may be suprised with the wide range of nuts and bolts used to get the job done. Make sure you have some vice grips.

[Daladim]

Yeah, the work will be starting in June, most likely. I live in a very remote part of the mountains in Montana in the summer, so I would like to have all the tools to begin with so I am not spending untold amounts of money on gas to run back and forth the 50 miles into town every time I find I need a new tool. There are actually many factors that play a role in my wanting to have just the tools I need. For instance, I will be getting on a train to travel the 700+ miles to my summer job location, where I will live in the woods for 4 months. I need to gather the tools before I go, so that I can start work on my Jeep immediately. I have a bunch of parts to install already, which will be shipped to my summer address come spring.

So I will most likely need to ship the tools to myself before I leave also, as taking them on the train will prove to be very difficult. Shipping tools I don't need will be a waste of money. And, as I am nowhere near my Jeep right now(700+ miles away), I don't have the option to start tinkering at this time.

Thus, every little bit of advice on tool sizes will help me get right to work when I arrive this spring.

In hindsight, I should have brought my Haynes manual out east with me. I could have studied it and most likely found out the tool sizes from it's pages over the winter. Oh well, at least it will be there when I return!

[sherlocktk]

Some "Special" tools that you might need.

12 pt 1/2 inch socket to take off brake caliper mounting bracket if neccessary (I rebuilt my whole front axle and did not need to take it off)

7 mm allen wrench to remove brake calipers youll definately want this.

Tap and die set to clean up threads when re-assembling. Make sure it has fine thread options too. Ditch the small ones, Keep 1/4 up to 1/2 both fine and normal pitch.

[JeepHammer]

I usually buy 6 point sockets, since they grip the bolts better than 'Universal' sockets do.
Getting 'Impact' sockets means you won't break them as easily when you are using them in 'Heavy' situations...
Like with a 3' cheater bar on the ratchet handle or breaker bar!

Metric sockets/wrenches make for 'Half Sizes' when bolts are odd sized or rusted. That makes things MUCH cheaper than buying a particular 'Undersize' remover socket when you can use what you already have...
..........................

As for 'Torx' you will need TWO sets,
Small screw driver size, and a contained set is a good idea,
And you will need standard and metric Allen wrenches.

Sears has a set of small standard, metric and torx fold out tools that store in the handle for cheap, around $30.






-------------------------------------------

As for the larger Torx, and the larger Allen type fasteners,
BUY A SET OF SOCKETS!
If you are smart, you will be the 'Impact' grade of sockets and make sure they have a lifetime warranty.
'Impact' rated will live longer than the regular hand tool versions.



Nothing worse than having to stop work because you only got ONE drive tool and it's not the right size for what you are working on!

------------------------------------------

For the larger sockets/bits that are specific to one part on a Jeep...
Like the 2-1/16" inch THIN WALL socket for the spindle nuts,
Then it's perfectly OK to buy just one of those without buying the very expensive set of sockets that contain it.
(2-1/16" socket Usually around $10 at jeep supply places)



-------------------------------------

Brake lines will be LINE WRENCHES to get them loose at the compression fittings, And you WILL need a set of at least 3 wrenches to perform any brake line compression fitting work since it takes TWO wrenches to brake any given brake line compression fitting loose.
You have to hold BOTH sides of the lines to get them loose most times.



And the brake caliper bolts are usually an 'Odd Ball' head,
They are the 'Star' (Correctly know as 'Inverted Torx')
And you should have those in any comprehensive common tool box set.

-------------------------------------

If you are trying to save space for a trail tool set,
Then consider things like the 'Dog Bone' wrenches for holding a nut while you are trying to get the bolt loose...



Long bolts will pass through the heads so you can hold nuts, and they do about 8 sizes of bolts/nuts on one wrench.

These do NOT take the place of a regular wrench or socket set, but they are handy for holding the nut/bolt while you use a socket/wrench on the other side for removal/install.
---------------------------------------

I CAN'T STRESS THIS ENOUGH!
MAKE SURE WHAT YOU BUY HAS A LOCAL DISTRIBUTOR FOR WARRANTY RETURNS!

Sears is in easy driving distance for most of us,
But make sure you have a LOCALLY AVAILABLE DISTRIBUTOR for what ever you buy!

Wally-World sell Stanly tools, and they will exchange for single items,
Like when you break a ratchet you bought individually,
But they WILL NOT replace a broken tool from a set!
You have to send your tool off to Stanly and wait for replacment,
And you wind up paying shipping at least ONE direction!
Adding to the cost of your tools.

Most of the home centers (For example, Husky brand tools) will take your broken set piece, but you have to wait for the replacment to be mailed to you or the store to pick up...

If you buy off the 'Tool Trucks' (Mac, Snap-On, Matco), then you have to wait for that guy to show back up to get warranty exchange.
That meas up to a week of waiting for replacements when you break something!

If you buy off the internet, you may have to send your broken tools off,
And wait for return,
And wind up paying shipping both ways!

You can walk into any sears store and get immediate replacment on Craftsman tools, and that means a lot to me.
S&K has distributors in many towns, and they will make immediate replacment exchanges.