camshaft replacement - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 08-20-2017, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
pjaskins
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Garage
camshaft replacement

I have a 79 CJ5 - 304. Can I replace the camshaft without removing the engine?

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post #2 of 17 Old 08-20-2017, 10:47 AM
waynaferd
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Sure can just have remove everything in front of the engine to pull it out thru, radiator, grill, timing cover, water pump etc.

A 55 '5 and a 77 '7
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post #3 of 17 Old 08-20-2017, 12:30 PM
pedal2themetai
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HI, when replacing the cam you should always replace the lifters too. or you can wipe out a new cam with old lifters because of ware pattern... Most cams are sold as a cam and lifter kit.
You would have to pull the head to replace the lifters but you don't have to pull the motor. just remove everything up front.
good luck
tim
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post #4 of 17 Old 08-20-2017, 12:46 PM
chris989604
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There is no need to pull the head to change lifters, Just the intake needs to come off.


The only bad part of changing it in the jeep is the oil pan. Trying to get a timing gear cover to seal to the front of the pan is not the easiest when the pan is installed first.. If you can drop the oil pan, I think it is worth the extra few minutes of work.
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post #5 of 17 Old 08-20-2017, 03:33 PM
gmakra1
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Quote:
There is no need to pull the head to change lifters, Just the intake needs to come off.
This is incorrect on a 4.2 engine.
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post #6 of 17 Old 08-20-2017, 03:57 PM
swatson454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmakra1 View Post
This is incorrect on a 4.2 engine.
It's a 304: too much time standing next to your still


Shawn
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post #7 of 17 Old 08-20-2017, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
pjaskins
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Got it, thanks for the input, new lifters came with the cam and an Edlelbrock manifold and carb are being installed also. Oil pan is off, it leaked badly, I think putting it on after the timing cover is installed will be the most effective in stopping leaks. Suggestions? pja
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post #8 of 17 Old 08-20-2017, 10:04 PM
chris989604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjaskins View Post
Got it, thanks for the input, new lifters came with the cam and an Edlelbrock manifold and carb are being installed also. Oil pan is off, it leaked badly, I think putting it on after the timing cover is installed will be the most effective in stopping leaks. Suggestions? pja
THe pan will go on after the front cover. Make sure everything is squeaky clean. Use a dab of rtv in the corners of the pan.

If you have the time and $, switch from using bolts to studs for the oil pan. most hardware stores like ace have them or order them from summit. for ~20$ it will save a lot of headaches.
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post #9 of 17 Old 08-20-2017, 10:59 PM
TIPPEDITOVER
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Please please please use a break in oil with tons of ZDDP formulated in it when you break it in, so your cam/lifters can live a long happy life.

Shaun

1978 CJ5 to CJ6 - Build in progress......


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post #10 of 17 Old 08-21-2017, 03:16 AM
gmakra1
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[QUOTE][It's a 304: too much time standing next to your still /QUOTE]
Yupe I maybe next to my still too much you though spend way too much time in your coffin.
Dang Shawnster for once and only once you are correct!
BTW you owe me a call Yankee!
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post #11 of 17 Old 08-21-2017, 10:58 AM
swatson454
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[quote=gmakra1;38773841]
Quote:
[It's a 304: too much time standing next to your still /QUOTE]
Yupe I maybe next to my still too much you though spend way too much time in your coffin.
Dang Shawnster for once and only once you are correct!
BTW you owe me a call Yankee!
Sorry I missed you, Georgie but you know how cocaine, Russian gymnasts and strippers can be- livin' the dream! I'll try to give you a call when we chopper from the yacht into my private resort in Aruba.

Stay thirsty, my friends! Lol!


Shawn

Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.
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post #12 of 17 Old 08-21-2017, 07:52 PM
80cj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris989604 View Post
There is no need to pull the head to change lifters, Just the intake needs to come off.


The only bad part of changing it in the jeep is the oil pan. Trying to get a timing gear cover to seal to the front of the pan is not the easiest when the pan is installed first.. If you can drop the oil pan, I think it is worth the extra few minutes of work.
A number of years ago I changed the timing chain on a 76 CJ-5 with 304 without having to drop the oil pan. As I remember there were some specific instructions in the FSM. One thng I do remember was using a liberal amount of RTV. No problems with leaks.
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post #13 of 17 Old 08-22-2017, 06:35 AM
shadoow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIPPEDITOVER View Post
Please please please use a break in oil with tons of ZDDP formulated in it when you break it in, so your cam/lifters can live a long happy life.
any suggestions on a specific oil brand/weight ??
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post #14 of 17 Old 08-22-2017, 08:03 AM
STJP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadoow View Post
any suggestions on a specific oil brand/weight ??
Here is one brand of break-in oil for flat tappet cams.

Crane Cams 10W-40 Part Number 99300-1, Driven Break-In Oil

On the Crane website there is also a good explanation of break-in procedure.

http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/breakin/548e.pdf

Cheers,

JS
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post #15 of 17 Old 08-22-2017, 05:35 PM
258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris989604 View Post
THe pan will go on after the front cover. Make sure everything is squeaky clean. Use a dab of rtv in the corners of the pan.

If you have the time and $, switch from using bolts to studs for the oil pan. most hardware stores like ace have them or order them from summit. for ~20$ it will save a lot of headaches.
Is there specific kit for the ('85) 258 4.2L as far as studs go for the oil pan? I am dropping my oil pan in the next couple months and would like to look further into this. Which brand is preferred?
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