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Unread 08-12-2013, 02:14 PM   #46
swatson454
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Running the plunger up and down a couple of times in a bucket of oil is a good thing but I don't believe the surface tension of the oil will allow it to pass through the tiny hole in the lifter so the overnight soak deal is up for debate.

If you get the adjustable rockers and assuming your push rod length is correct, when you go to install the rockers and push rods, just spin the push rod back and forth with your fingers as you run the rocker adjustment nut down. When you feel through the push rod that it's made contact with the lifter and the rocker, consider that "zero lash". Give the adjustment nut another half turn and call it good.

After the cam has been run in for at least a half-hour at 2,000+ rpm, you can do a final adjustment of the rockers. You can remove one valve cover at a time and throw some oil stoppers on the rocker arms. They won't block the oil completely but they'll help keep the smoke down.



With the engine idling, back off the rocker arm nut until you hear it clacking. Slowly tighten it back up until it's quiet and then go another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Personally, I'm a quarter turn kind of guy. Just go down the line from front to back. The engine usually complains a bit when you crank the nut down so be patient and let it recover. It's just the lifter preload holding the valve open for a second. It'll stabilize.

If you stay with the AMC rockers, do three Hail Mary's and a random act of kindness and hope that you guessed the right push rod length because it is what it is


Shawn

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Unread 08-12-2013, 02:49 PM   #47
Matt1981CJ7
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If memory serves, I think the lifter pre-load on a 304 should be around .050" plus or minus .020".

It's very easy to measure either with a dial-indicator, or by using the adjustable rod from Comp Cams, or by scribing marks on the rod itself.

For what it's worth, several experienced mechanics told me it was an important step that is often overlooked.

Matt
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Unread 08-12-2013, 03:04 PM   #48
Rollbar
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Wow thanks-didn't know that.

Jim
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Unread 08-12-2013, 03:19 PM   #49
Rollbar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
If you get the adjustable rockers and assuming your push rod length is correct, when you go to install the rockers and push rods, just spin the push rod back and forth with your fingers as you run the rocker adjustment nut down. When you feel through the push rod that it's made contact with the lifter and the rocker, consider that "zero lash". Give the adjustment nut another half turn and call it good.
Are those roller rockers adjustable? I looked on their site/page but it doesn't say.
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...de=A8CAMSHFTXE

Quote:
After the cam has been run in for at least a half-hour at 2,000+ rpm, you can do a final adjustment of the rockers.
Is that to break the cam in? I thought by adding the break-in oil and running the engine/driving would do that.


Quote:
If you stay with the AMC rockers, do three Hail Mary's and a random act of kindness and hope that you guessed the right push rod length because it is what it is
That's funny

Thanks,
Jim
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Unread 08-12-2013, 09:30 PM   #50
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Well Ashley is going to replace what we have been talking about

She asked about replacing her cam bearing since she is putting the $ into the motor. I have to call the machine shop.

Do I have to remove the pistons so they can install the Cam bearings, or how do they do that on the v8?

Sorry, never been that deep in the bottom end.

Question, do they need to mic the cam bearing journal/where they go before she buys them?

I tried finding them on their site http://www.compcams.com but came up empty-guess I have to call again.

Thanks,
Jim
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Unread 08-12-2013, 09:40 PM   #51
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Without her spending to much more money, I was telling her this is the time to get rid of her old distributor (1980).

I did notice some HEI on eBay and I also told her she needed to get new cam gear/dist gear as well.

As for the coil, I mentioned the MSD but that costs to much so I was thinking of a MSD or Accell canister coil.

Can you all give me a heads up on what to do/what would work.

Thanks,
Jim
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Unread 08-12-2013, 10:03 PM   #52
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Also, does Ashley have to buy certain dist springs w/this cam/setup?
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Unread 08-12-2013, 10:55 PM   #53
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Is there anything wrong with her original distributer? If not, the "Team Rush" upgrade would be cheaper than swapping in an HEI. Google it.

You can customize the advance curve on her original dizzy, as well, but you'll need the engine running to do it. That's a fine-tuning thing.

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Unread 08-13-2013, 12:12 AM   #54
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Original Dizzy ok.

Can I buy a Cam/Dist gear to match for her OEM?
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Unread 08-13-2013, 06:13 AM   #55
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If I were in your position. I would take the block to the machine shop. Allow the to install the new cam bearings. While it is there have them check the bearing clearances. You don't want a lot of money is this and then have problems..
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Unread 08-13-2013, 06:25 AM   #56
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Quote:
I tried finding them on their site http://www.compcams.com but came up empty-guess I have to call again.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/m...e/cam-bearings

Quote:
Can I buy a Cam/Dist gear to match for her OEM?
http://www.summitracing.com/search?S...m%20gear&dds=1

Hope that works and yeah replace as a set and the cam bearings are press fit and should be checked by the machine shop and when you get it back make SURE to check the bearings for the cam as if the oil hole is not lined up it will make short work of cam and the bearings and then the other parts.
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Unread 08-13-2013, 06:54 AM   #57
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Jim, I have a 304 (154K miles)with a Davis Unifed Ignition HEI distributor, and their Proprietary plug wires.
Another with a 304,( 85k miles) TeamRush, factory ignition box, and a Ford E-core coil, the factory distributor, with wires from NAPA. Both of these are stock engines with a 2bbl carb.

Also a 360 ( 1971 with unkown miles)that has the factory distributor, Stealth HEI, and the TeamRush. This one now has a MSD 6, the same distributor, and the same coil. This one also has cut to fit MSD wires. This one also has a Edlebrock intake with a Quadrajet. But is otherwise stock.


In all honestly I don't fell any seat of the pants difference between the 3. They are also geared Appropriately for the tire size.

All 3 use the factory cast exhaust manifolds.
The advantage of the HEI distributor is the ease of install, it's just 1 wire.

IMO, I would run the Stealth HEI, ( this is basically the GM ignition module in the Motorcraft box) the big cap and adapter with quality plug wires (teamrush) on the Factory distributor. And the Ford E-core coil. I feel this will be the best bang for the $. Then tune the advance curve like Matt said.

Bill
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Unread 08-13-2013, 07:15 AM   #58
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollbar View Post
Original Dizzy ok.

Can I buy a Cam/Dist gear to match for her OEM?
Unless they show excessive wear, you can re-use what's already there. If you go new, be sure to buy a matched set.

I agree with Pete, have a shop install the cam bearings. Papa Bill has also given some sage advise.

Matt
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Unread 08-13-2013, 08:18 AM   #59
lucdog
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Just a FYI. The cam bearings are smaller towards the rear of the engine, as are the journals on the cam. I believe this is to make a cam install easier, this may not be the only reason.

Matt, didnt you have a problem with this, or it may have been someone else.

Bill
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1973 J 4000,
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1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
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Unread 08-13-2013, 08:41 AM   #60
Matt1981CJ7
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Bill,

It must have been someone else. My cam install went smoothly.

One tip on installing the cam is to stick some kind of "handle" into the snout of the cam. I think I used a piece of all-thread. This will prevent gouging one of the bearings as you slide the cam in.

Also, care must be taken when installing the cam gear, so that you don't knock the rear cam plug out.

Matt
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