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Unread 08-11-2013, 07:25 AM   #16
swatson454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spottedfrog View Post
On the subject of what oil to run with a "cam" is there a synthetic that is recommended?
To my knowledge, no. At least not any synthetic that meets all of today's requirements (API/blah blah...). There may be a racing blend but I bet it's just stupid expensive.

I guess we should find out what spring pressures you guys are going to be running. Do you have a part number for your replacement springs?


Shawn

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Unread 08-11-2013, 07:48 AM   #17
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454

The EPA has done a fantastic job of turning our oil into garbage. Even the industrial blends like Rotella are already on the chopping block and aren't the oils they were a couple of years ago.

I'd highly recommend running Brad Penn 10W-30 for break-in and either their 15W40 or 20W50, depending on your summer heat and oil pressure, for the final or Joe Gibbs BR, now "Driven" oils for break-in and HR-1 for the final.

I know it's more expensive but not nearly as bad as a wiped-out cam. Think of it as cheap insurance.

Wix, Napa Gold and K&N oil filters are the way to go, as well. What ever you do, don't break the cam in on one of those orange things. You should be able to cross-reference the K&N number over to a Mobil 1 and save a couple of bucks. They're the same filter.

It's always a good idea to mic the bearings and journals to make sure nothings out of whack but I'm just as guilty of a cam swap without even looking at the cam bearings as the next guy

Shawn
I would X2 what Shawn said!!! With the exception of the Rotella, the zinc package it had, was changed a couple years ago.

I also agree with additives statement,With a exception. I still use Rotella in my flat tappet 7.3 Powerstroke, with a zinc additive.

Brad Penn 10w-30 is a semi Synthetic.

Bill
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Unread 08-11-2013, 07:57 AM   #18
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Not sure about the valve springs-do they have to match the Cam/Lifters she buys ?
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Unread 08-11-2013, 08:08 AM   #19
swatson454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
Brad Penn 10w-30 is a semi Synthetic.

Bill
Mornin'

Did you mean the "Driven" oils from Joe Gibbs? I know they have some semi-synthetics but I'm pretty sure Brad Penn is 100% dinosaur juice.

Oil Extreme Concentrate is probably the only additive I would ever consider using and that's only because I trust David to tell the truth. I was at the seminar in Sept. '11 when the test at TPIS was run so I can say with certainty that it's true where I can't with any other additive. Only hear-say on my part.


Shawn
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Unread 08-11-2013, 08:14 AM   #20
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According to the speed shop where I buy the 10w-30, it is a semi syn. (Brad Penn) The bottle says it is also. I don't believe the other oils are. I did ask if the 10w-30 came in a regular oil, the shop manager said no.

And morning to you Shawn.

B
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 08-11-2013, 08:19 AM   #21
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Mornin'
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Unread 08-11-2013, 08:33 AM   #22
swatson454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
According to the speed shop where I buy the 10w-30, it is a semi syn. (Brad Penn) The bottle says it is also. I don't believe the other oils are. I did ask if the 10w-30 came in a regular oil, the shop manager said no.

And morning to you Shawn.

B
Well that's interesting. Maybe it's grouped in their "today's passenger car..." section mentioned in this paragraph:

"The American Refining Group, Inc. offers a comprehensive line of BRAD PENNŽ lubricants such as gear oil, grease and other items to meet the majority of High Performance needs. We also offer a complete line of lubricants for today’s passenger car, fleet, commercial and industrial applications."

The stuff I was referring to isn't (well, isn't supposed to be) but it's definitely good to know so you make sure you end up with the stuff you were hoping for. Personally, I'd steer clear of synthetics on an old, flat-tappet engine. The Comp Xtreme and Lunati Voodoo lobes are fairly aggressive, too.


Shawn
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Unread 08-11-2013, 08:46 AM   #23
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You should make sure that the bind lift hight of the valve spring is higher than the cam's total lift.
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Unread 08-11-2013, 08:57 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454

Well that's interesting. Maybe it's grouped in their "today's passenger car..." section mentioned in this paragraph:

"The American Refining Group, Inc. offers a comprehensive line of BRAD PENNŽ lubricants such as gear oil, grease and other items to meet the majority of High Performance needs. We also offer a complete line of lubricants for today&rsquo;s passenger car, fleet, commercial and industrial applications."

The stuff I was referring to isn't (well, isn't supposed to be) but it's definitely good to know so you make sure you end up with the stuff you were hoping for. Personally, I'd steer clear of synthetics on an old, flat-tappet engine. The Comp Xtreme and Lunati Voodoo lobes are fairly aggressive, too.

Shawn
I do know the 10w-30 has zinc, but I'll double check the bottle, and post a picture in this thread.

Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 08-11-2013, 11:18 PM   #25
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Found this-is it to much? Comes w/lifters but not sure what valve springs to get IF she can use this one.

If not then she is looking at the two already suggested.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k8600

Thanks again,
Jim
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Unread 08-12-2013, 06:13 AM   #26
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Before you change your springs you need to make sure your retainers are up to the job of holding a higher pressures valve spring down. You don't want to drop a valve...
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Unread 08-12-2013, 06:26 AM   #27
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You should go ahead an get a spring and retainer kit with whatever cam kit you chose.That spring kit will come with all you need. The cam makers/sellers can tell you what spring kit they recommend for each cam they make/sell.
There really isn't much difference in the specs between the 3 cams. All are aimed at low midrange torque,which is a good thing.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 06:45 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texian View Post
There really isn't much difference in the specs between the 3 cams. All are aimed at low midrange torque,which is a good thing.
There is a HUGE difference in the two I mentioned and the Summit cam he just asked about.

Rollbar,

289 degrees of duration is an awful lot for a 304. Here's 280 degrees in a 350. Fast forward to 1:20 if you want. The one you mentioned will be pretty ugly.

http://jeepspace.jeepforum.com/video...2351#video2351


Shawn
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Unread 08-12-2013, 06:50 AM   #29
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Be advised, the springs that came with my Voodoo 250/256 kit didn't fit my 360. The inside diameter was much too large causing a sloppy fit over the spring seats. I ended up using a set of Comp Cams springs with the correct spec.

Also, be sure to check the pushrod preload upon reassembly. My new cam/lifters/springs required slightly shorter pushrods.

Otherwise, I've liked the Voodoo 250 cam. It provides a nice smooth idle, plenty of vacuum, and gobs of torque.

Good luck,

Edit: Mornin' Shawn.

Matt
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Unread 08-12-2013, 07:01 AM   #30
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I look at a cam's duration @ .050", not what they advertise the duration as. Apples to apples.
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