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Unread 09-20-2013, 06:04 PM   #181
roboto65
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Ok NO

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Unread 09-20-2013, 06:06 PM   #182
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The main concern is getting it running and up to about 2000 rpm and keep it there for about 20 minutes or so they should have sent break in info with the cam.
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Unread 09-20-2013, 06:07 PM   #183
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Thanks-Now we are going to the garage to measure push rod length.
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Unread 09-20-2013, 06:10 PM   #184
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Almost done lol Oh when your done with the pushrod checker I need it next LOL
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Unread 09-20-2013, 07:22 PM   #185
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Ok, Ashley's Push Rod length is: 7.850

7.800 + .050 = 7.850

We turned the Com Cam 7703 checker 1 turn (same one used in video).

Please check our math

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Unread 09-20-2013, 07:29 PM   #186
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The Comp Cam paper said we could have .020-.080" in clearance ????

I mentioned 1 turn on the pushrod checker. It was .25 past the one turn. So actual was 1.25 actual turns but we don't count that part (.25) according to comp cams.

Thanks again for all the help. Now, valve-train setting.
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Unread 09-21-2013, 07:15 AM   #187
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Mornin' fellas

Robo's right. That inner "spring" is just a dampner. How did you measure your lifter preload to come up with your final length?


Shawn
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Unread 09-21-2013, 10:21 AM   #188
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Mornin' fellas

Robo's right. That inner "spring" is just a dampner. How did you measure your lifter preload to come up with your final length?


Shawn

I don't know

The preload is .020-.080 according to comp cams and that is the .25 spin on the push rod length checker I guess.

I'll look for a video to help explain it to me a little better.



Is this the same thing/video ?

Since we don't have adjustable studs, then we would need shims ?



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Unread 09-21-2013, 10:30 AM   #189
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Ok, Ashley's Push Rod length is: 7.850

7.800 + .050 = 7.850

We turned the Com Cam 7703 checker 1 turn (same one used in video).

Please check our math

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqx8Cs6O6Vo

We did exactly how this guy explains it in the video to get our AOLength.

Did that adjust the preload for us ?

So if wrong then what?

And if wrong then our push rods would need to be a little longer correct?

Thanks,
Jim

P.S. This engine building stuff is pretty easy until you get to a few sections if you modified your engine components. Learning a lot though.
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Unread 09-21-2013, 11:15 AM   #190
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On your video, rather than running the adjusting nut down, which you can't do, you would expand the push rod tool to get zero lash. Once you get to that point, my thought is that you would then pull the rocker arm back off and get the push rod tool out. Expand the tool another .030 and that should be the push rod length that you'd need.

Maybe Matt, Roboto or someone else can verify that as a good option.


Shawn
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Unread 09-21-2013, 11:19 AM   #191
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We installed the rocker and snugged down the rocker.

We then rotated the motor and kept adjusting the push rod tool to get the rocker in the center of the valve stem.

Once in the center of the valve stem, we pulled the rocker and then the tool counting the turns like the video reads.

By doing this we should be good, correct, unless I'm missing something.

Thanks again guy for your patience and help on this project(s), it really means a lot to my kids and myself.

Jim
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Unread 09-21-2013, 11:24 AM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
Expand the tool another .030 and that should be the push rod length that you'd need.

Maybe Matt, Roboto or someone else can verify that as a good option.


Shawn
Shawn, we turned the tool 1.25 turns to close for measurement, BUT the video says to turn (on the initial turn) to the tool mark on the push rod tool (see video) then turn to count the turns for the measurement which we did.

I'm thinking that the.25 of the 1.25 of the total turn is our additional length needed.

Question on our calculation-how can we add the .25 to the 1, it wouldn't be that much more and .............

??
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Unread 09-21-2013, 11:33 AM   #193
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Hey guys, Ashley said she wants to join the double flusher clan.

She said we need shirts that read I double flush or courtesy clush.

SO, just to make sure-when she drains the initial oil she puts the break-in oil back in for 500 miles then the Brad Penn for 1500, then regular changes at 3K.

Sorry for the redundancy but she just wants to make sure after spending all money.

Thanks,
Jim
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Unread 09-21-2013, 12:50 PM   #194
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swatson is right.to check pushrod length you first need to get the lifter you are checking on to the base circle of the cam.this can be done by rotating the crank untill the lifter has reached full lift,then rotate the crank one full turn.this will be close enough for what we are doing.only install ONE lifter for this.
install the checking pushrod with it at its index marks,then install the rocker arm and tighten to spec.expand the pushrod untill you reach ZERO lash.be carefull not to preload the lifter.Remove the rocker and pushrod and check pushrod length.Add .050"-.060"to that length and that is your new pushrod length.you may not be able to find a new pushrod in that exact length.a pushrod that is within .010"-.020" of your length will be fine


For cam break in,it is best to follow the cam maufacturers instructions,but as a general rule,start the engine and run for 20 mins at 2000-2500rpms.
I usually run the engine at 2000rpm for 10mins then 2500rpm for another 10mins.
the reason for running the engine at 2000rpm is to ensure enough lubrication for the cam lobes,as the cam is lubricated by the oil being cast off of the crank.changing the rpm during break in changes where the oil is being splashed and helps to ensure the entire cam is being lubricated.
it is best to have a fan in front of the vehicle to help with cooling during cam break in.

change the oil immediately after cam break in while the engine is still hot.cut open filter and inspect for metal.after 500 miles,remove filter,cut open and inspect.if the filter is clean,install a new filter,top up the oil and your good to go.you can change the oil as many times as you want, but unless you find a lot of contaminents in the filter or oil,there really is no reason to.if it makes you feel better then by all means go ahead and change the oil.

common contaminents found in the first oil filter that are normal and not a concern are,paint chips,plastic bits, cotton /lint from rags,gobs of grease/assembly lube.
a small amount of metal may be present,but a large amount or flakes should be investigated.
the second oil filter should be clean with little to no contaminents.
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Unread 09-21-2013, 02:40 PM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruteboy View Post
install the checking pushrod with it at its index marks,then install the rocker arm and tighten to spec.expand the pushrod untill you reach ZERO lash.
OK did that.


Quote:
be carefull not to preload the lifter.
Did that.


Quote:
Remove the rocker and pushrod and check pushrod length.Add .050"-.060"to that length and that is your new pushrod length.you may not be able to find a new pushrod in that exact length.a pushrod that is within .010"-.020" of your length will be fine.
OK, instead of measuring the full length-we used the calculations in the Comp Cam video so we should be good-we are achieving the same thing correct?

Sorry guys-not fighting you all just seems the same unless I'm confused and that's not hard.
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