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Unread 09-14-2013, 08:06 PM   #166
Rollbar
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Well, we would have had the engine together tonight.

Question do I have to remove the inner spring when checking pushrod length or is that just w/roller rockers.



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Unread 09-15-2013, 05:55 AM   #167
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Well it would be better with a check spring but since you are only doing one valve me I would put it together and check with what you are going to run get your length and order the pushrods.
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Unread 09-15-2013, 08:06 AM   #168
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OK Thanks.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 01:29 PM   #169
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Ashley's push rod checker tool came in today.

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Unread 09-16-2013, 02:13 PM   #170
Matt1981CJ7
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I'm curious to see what length Ashley will need.

Mine needed these. 7.750"

Matt
pushrods2.jpg  
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Unread 09-16-2013, 02:15 PM   #171
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Did you use the same Cam/lobes/height ?

I guess I do need to measure the diameter of her push rods.

She ordered regular rockers from Melling.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 02:36 PM   #172
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I used a Lunati 250/256 cam and Bulltear rockers. I'm not sure how they compare to Ashley's.

Looking forward to the first fire.

Matt
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Unread 09-16-2013, 03:57 PM   #173
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Since we rebuilt the carb and then the timing will be set at TDC.

Question-When we fire it up, we might have to play w/it for a minute or two to get it going. Is that going to hurt her cam or ?

She as going to go w/the BT rockers but she decided to go w/the Melling ones from AZone.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 04:24 PM   #174
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I don't think tweaking the timing a little during break-in hurts a thing. My dyno guys did a bunch of that.

Matt
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Unread 09-16-2013, 05:01 PM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I don't think tweaking the timing a little during break-in hurts a thing. My dyno guys did a bunch of that.

Matt
I agree. You always seem to have to crank it one way or the other to get it to fire. That's normal.

My point earlier is that, once it does fire, you'd throw a light on it to make sure you had plenty of timing in the engine to keep the temp from going stupid on you. Have the light hooked up and safely out of the way. Go straight to over 2k rpm and check to see if it's at least 40 degrees and rotate the distributor accordingly.

The mistake during initial fire-up would be to idle it while you set it at 10 degrees or something.

I have an old friend that installed a numbers-matching, rebuilt 283? in a gorgeously restored '58 Corvette a year or so ago. I asked him how the initial fire-up went because he didn't build the engine.

He told me that he fired it up and simply set the idle speed and initial timing. All that was left to do was "break in the cam".

He had no idea (and I didn't have the heart to tell him) that he just killed about 90% of that cams ability to survive the first 500 miles.

You still might get lucky and need a 7.8 inch push rod. I know a guy... lol


Shawn
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Unread 09-16-2013, 05:22 PM   #176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
Go straight to over 2k rpm and check to see if it's at least 40 degrees and rotate the distributor accordingly.
Ok I got it now

Do you know where/what kind of tape I can buy to put on the H-Balancer ?

Quote:
You still might get lucky and need a 7.8 inch push rod. I know a guy... lol
Shawn
OK cool-we will see and I will post.

Thank you all again-
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Unread 09-16-2013, 05:30 PM   #177
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I'm guessing you may have seen this before but this is the most accurate way to find TDC. It will verify if the marks on your balancer are accurate or not. It got a little windy there but that's to be expected. The timing tape from Summit or even a local parts store (although they may have to order it) is only 6 or 8 bucks. If you're anywhere near Sparks, the stuff will be on the shelf at Summit.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/fi...r-tdc-1290121/
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Unread 09-16-2013, 05:40 PM   #178
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Thank you-I will read the post.
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Unread 09-18-2013, 12:41 PM   #179
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http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...s.php?ubb=cfrm
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Unread 09-20-2013, 05:50 PM   #180
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Guys, do we have to remove the inner valve spring to break-in this Cam ?

PLEASE SAY NO !!!!!!!!!!!!
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