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Eliminate Hood Flutter!!!WJ Shackle Tabs: Tow-Hook Replacements2014 Spartan Locker Special - While Supplies Last! Dana 3

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Unread 09-13-2013, 08:46 AM   #151
swatson454
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Personally, Jim, I'm a double-flusher

I don't get more than an hour or two after the break-in flush before it gets dumped and another filter installed. Then no more than 500 miles and it gets another change. From there, whatever normal cycle you prefer.

That's just me, though.


Shawn

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Unread 09-13-2013, 08:55 AM   #152
Matt1981CJ7
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I'll call Shawn's double-flush and add another.

I've changed mine 3 times in the first 3K miles.

Probably overkill, but I wasn't taking any chances after all the coin I dropped on the build.

Matt
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Unread 09-13-2013, 09:32 AM   #153
swatson454
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Another thought, Jim. Do you have a dial-back timing light or a balancer with the timing degrees marked out to over 40*?

If so, when you fire it up and get it over 2000 rpm, get the timing light on it and make sure it's reading between 40 and 45* of timing. We don't care about the balance of centrifugal to vacuum advance, what the curve is or whether it's on ported or manifold vacuum at this point, we just want to make sure that you have enough timing in the engine at the break-in rpm to keep if from dumping unnecessary heat into brand new rings, exhaust valves, guides and seals.

You can come back and adjust all of that stuff later. This is just for the break-in.


Shawn
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Unread 09-13-2013, 10:20 AM   #154
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OK, sounds like we are a double flusher as well

Shawn, we do not have a timing light or a balancer tape and not 100% sure I understand. I get the theory but .

Since we are on the topic of timing:

1. Which cylinder head AND valve is the intake (second one/small valve) ? D-Side Cyl head right.

So if I set the #1 piston on TDC and look at both lifters to be ?? (level w/the block=closed, right)(I can also look at the valve stems and rockers to be the same), then I am at TDC-I can then look at the H-Balancer to see if I am in time-then add the tape ?

Thanks,
Jim

Pics coming.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 01:14 PM   #155
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Ok now the fun begins.

Note: the machine shop said to run the Break-in oil for 500 miles.

Cam break-in for 30 min then change the filter and add one Qt of the 10w30 for another 500-1k miles ( depending on how we want to do it).

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Unread 09-13-2013, 01:41 PM   #156
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Well, like Matt mentioned on the break-in oil thread a day or two ago, everyone's got their own tweak on the process.

Personally, my oil gets dumped after the initial break-in. The filter is cut open and inspected for anything other than what looks like Barbie had a little glitter party in there. If it passes, it gets new oil and a new filter for no more than an hour or two (this would include several light to medium-throttle runs from 2,000 rpm to maybe 4,000 rpm) and is dumped along with another filter inspection. From there, new oil and filter and no more than 500 miles. Repeat.

That's just me, though. I'm getting anxious to hear it and I sure hope she likes the cam


Shawn

Edit: Yes, TDC on the compression stroke will have both lifters bottomed out. How's the short block look? Purdy?
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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:02 PM   #157
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Thanks Shawn-will pass on the info.

Future posts will be on her build posting unless etc.

We will post the final break-in here and on her original post.

Thanks again for all the help guys,
Jim & Ashley
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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:04 PM   #158
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P.S. She just ordered these front fenders - http://www.ccfabs.com/store/#!/~/pro...=0&id=24092357 Free Shipping. Same ones we installed on Jr's '74.

Not her Jeep, just a pic off the mfg web site.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 03:43 PM   #159
swatson454
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Very cool.

Hey, I was told recently via PM that I "take over threads". I sure never meant to and I hope you don't feel that way. I was just giving you my experiences and opinion. Either way, I can't wait to see a video of it running


Shawn
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Unread 09-13-2013, 05:18 PM   #160
Rollbar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
Very cool.

Hey, I was told recently via PM that I "take over threads". I sure never meant to and I hope you don't feel that way. I was just giving you my experiences and opinion. Either way, I can't wait to see a video of it running

Shawn
Hey-Jack Don't you worry about that and or taking over my threads-I don't see it. You have my permission to take over any thread of mine as far as the context goes and trying to help us you all have been very helpful and we (my family) really appreciate it.
Most people just won't bother because they have either heard it before or answered the same question before.
I wonder how many people were born w/all this Jeep knowledge and how many learned the same way I do/people on this forum from people on this very post helping.

IMHO you all just keep doing what you are doing and thankfully there are people like you who will help/tell it like it is so someone like my daughter doesn't spend a ton of cash or do something that she will regret.

We will post a few videos when we get that far and

Jim
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Unread 09-13-2013, 07:10 PM   #161
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Shawn taking over threads thats a good one guess it takes all kinds but I myself cannot wait to see her driving the Jeep.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 08:08 PM   #162
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Question-Do I need to put Assembly Lube on the cylinder walls before I crank it/turn it over (if the machine shop didn't do it) ?

I am going to put it on the valve stems etc.

Machine shop already put it on the cam/crank.

Tomorrow is the big assembly day, or getting started.

Thanks,
Jim

P.S. This engine builder builds all the circle track race engines in this area and in know to be very good.

Ashley's build thread - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/as...4-auto-1441950
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Unread 09-13-2013, 11:26 PM   #163
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no assembly lube should be used on the cylinder walls as it would gum up the rings.only a light coating of oil if the engine is going to be stored and not run right away.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 11:35 PM   #164
Rollbar
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Thank you very much
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Unread 09-14-2013, 06:02 AM   #165
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Not that I don't trust the machine shop what kind of guarantee do the give on the crank install you guys are doing so much that it makes sense to check the crank with plasti gauge but thats just me at the least put a torque wrench on the main caps and check them.

I am paranoid that way sorry carry on more pics unwrap that block
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