Cam Help for Ashley's 304 - Page 6 - JeepForum.com

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post #76 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 03:07 PM
CSP
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There's no way to tell if you can get away with just new bearings without mic'ing each journal first.

This is quite a can of worms to be opened up just for the following intention:
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Originally Posted by Rollbar View Post
Ashley keeps telling me she wants to be able to off-road w/no problems/engine problems of power etc.
I would have changed the fluids, checked the compression, and maybe done an intake/carb swap and called it good. With the right gears and consistent fuel delivery/spark, power shouldn't ever be a problem given the nature of this CJ.

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post #77 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
Rollbar
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Thanks I will ask him, I'm sure he will ??

we were set to just install the new cam w/old bearings but we are this far.

The reason for the cam, the old one I was told is messed up by the bent push rod or ?
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post #78 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 03:14 PM
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That makes sense then. I would have stopped with the cam, especially since you still see cross hatching indicating it doesn't have a ton of miles on it.

But hey, not my rig (or my wallet)!
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post #79 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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One other one was bent as well but not so bad.

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post #80 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Question, should she put assembly lube on the cyl walls since it will be hot tanked?
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post #81 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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On the suggestion of Break-in Oil.

Is that One quart added to the other four quarts, or is that six quarts total of break-in oil?

Thanks,
Jim
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post #82 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 05:29 PM
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Well no on the assembly lube on the cylinder walls just a light coat of dino oil for them, assembly lube goes on the bearings and lifter bores and cam bearings not on the lobes that has it's own lube. As far as break in oil well not much help from me I just run dino on break in guess I need to catch up with the times LOL

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post #83 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 05:37 PM
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All the oil should be break in oil in the oil pan.

B

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post #84 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
Rollbar
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Thanks.

Question, she is going to run her stock heads and will the rocker arms work on bridged rocker head? Wouldn't you have some machine work done and use guide plates.

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...de=A8CAMSHFTXE
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post #85 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roboto65 View Post
Well no on the assembly lube on the cylinder walls just a light coat of dino oil for them, assembly lube goes on the bearings and lifter bores and cam bearings not on the lobes that has it's own lube. As far as break in oil well not much help from me I just run dino on break in guess I need to catch up with the times LOL
I'll second the motion.

A light coat of oil on the piston skirts is all that's needed. Just make sure that the ring pack isn't dry.

As far as the break-in lube is concerned: wrist pins, rocker arm pivot balls, push rod cups and the obvious cam lobes is usually about it. Bearing surfaces really don't need it as they have a dry lube attached to them anyways.

Of course, there certainly isn't anything wrong with coating everything.


Shawn

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post #86 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollbar View Post
Thanks.

Question, she is going to run her stock heads and will the rocker arms work on bridged rocker head? Wouldn't you have some machine work done and use guide plates.

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...de=A8CAMSHFTXE
Is this right or ?
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post #87 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 06:40 PM
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I will add.....

If you have your heads bead-blasted, as my machinist did to mine, make damn sure the dust is completely cleaned from inside the heads. If you don't, the dust will coat the cylinder walls. creating friction that will prevent the engine from cranking freely.

That little detail cost me $1400 after my first failed attempt to fire the engine at the dyno shop.

Matt
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post #88 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Matt, good tip. We will wash them out w/H20 and then spray them down w/WD-40.

How does that sound ?
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post #89 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollbar View Post
Is this right or ?
I was told that adjustable roller rockers would require additional machining on the heads. At that point of my rebuild, I was stressing over the budget, so I went with new non-adjustable bridged rockers from Bulltear.

Perhaps there's a bolt-on product that doesn't require machining, but I'm not aware of one.

Matt
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post #90 of 204 Old 08-13-2013, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Would they be better then the stock ones she has now-seeing they are from 1980 ?

I'll have to look on their site.
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