Here is a thread you might want to reference, since it covers most of what we are going to cover here...
(Good reason for a 'Search' before you post!)
First, you have to obtain a 'Spindle Nut Socket'.
DO NOT USE A CHISEL!
Only IDIOTS use chisels on the only thing keeping the wheel on!
Anywhere from $6 to $50 depending on where you find it, and every Jeep supplier has them!
Here is a pretty good exploded view including the socket you need.
Regular sockets are WAY EXPENSIVE in this size, and most have sidewalls that are too thick!
The 'Spindle Nut Socket' is the ONLY thing you need that is a 'Specialty' item for this project...
And EVERY Jeeper should have one of these!
Everything else is 'common' or 'Rental' from the chain parts stores...
OK, you need to take the Lockouts off if you have them.
there are SEVERAL different kinds, so without pictures of yours, I can't tell you how to do that.
They may have 'Allen' (hex) head screws, they may have 9/16" head bolts, they may have studs and nuts...
There are all kinds, including the Jeeps that don't have lockouts at all!
If you have a Jeep that had or has a factory 'Q-track' transfer case, you only have drive flanges will little domed covers on the outside...
(The image above has 'Domed Covers' and drive flanges instead of lock outs)
Anyway, remove the domed covers or lockouts, and CAREFULLY Lay the parts on laid out paper towels in the order you took them out.
Once you figured out the 'Lockout' or Drive Flange,
It's time to remove the brake caliper...
Most brake calipers have a single bolt holding the locks in on the outside, facing the passenger compartment.
It will be about 1/4" Allen (hex), and the head will be oversize like a big button standing up.
This is A VERY GOOD TIME to replace brake pads and rotors if you need to!
When you take this out, take time to study the arrangment/location of the parts around it. It can be a Pain In The Butt to get this back together correctly if you don't pay attention to the wedge and spring this screw locks in place!
Use a small hammer and a 1/4" punch and drive the wedge holding the caliper in the bracket out.
Again, watch the way the two fit together, and where they are coming from so you can get them back in correctly!
Once the wedge and spring are removed, the caliper will pull straight off the rotor (up and back towards the passenger compartment.
It might not want to go if you have a lot of rust on the outside edge of your rotor, you may have to give it some 'Persuasion'....
DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG BY THE BRAKE LINE!
Use wire ties or wire to keep it from hanging by the brake line!
GET OUT THE PAPER TOWELS & BRAKE CLEANER SPRAY CAN AND CLEAN OFF WHAT'S UNDER THE CAP OR LOCKOUT.
Is this a GOOD time to mention a garbage can & having hand cleaner around?
Always good to have one handy when working with greasy stuff!
You will see the center 'Stub' axle sticking through the center of the hub.
It has a Outside Lock Ring on it, and you will need a common set of 'Snap Ring Pliers' to get it off.
I get the ones with several different tips so I don't have to beat myself up looking for the 'Specific' set of plies that fits a 'Specific' size snap ring!
Take that snap ring off, and the rest of the Hub or drive flange should come off the stub axle...
Then you will see the spindle nuts.
Only cheap bastards won't buy new spindle nuts when they are damaged, so don't be one of those!
This is what holds your wheels on, so spend $3 for reasonable nuts!
You will find an OUTSIDE nut, and you should have a need to straighten the washer behind it to get it off.
That is a LOCKING DEVICE to keep your nuts from getting away!
(Punch and hammer again)
Small waster with 'Tab'
Once the two nuts are off, you can yank outward on the hub/rotor and it will all come off together...
Not much to it once you master the lockout and and brake caliper assemblies.
Here is another pretty good exploded view of those parts,
And you will find the Inside 'Hub' or 'Wheel' bearing on the back side of the hub under a grease seal...
Pry the grease seal out and remove the bearing, clean both bearings up REALLY WELL!
ALWAYS CHANGE THE GREASE SEAL WHEN YOU SERVICE THE HUBS!
For $2 it just doesn't make sense not to!
Once ALL The grease is cleaned out of the hubs, you want to take a look at the 'RACES'...
That's the part of the bearing that doesn't have 'Rollers'...
The 'Shiny' part inside the hub is the 'Bearing Race'...
There is one in the back of the hub also, you need to inspect both for 'Warbles' , 'Pits', Scratches, ect.
Any serious damage, and they need to be replaced as a SET...
Bearing AND Race!
You MUST NOT put new bearings on old races, or old bearings on new races!
This shows a bearing 'Race' that is brand new... Just because they are 'New' doesn't mean they are 'Defect Free'.
Check them for any problems before and AFTER install.
Thing DO go wrong during install!
Notice the notches in the inside of the hub (where the red straw is).
These grooves are provided for you so you can drive a defective race out of the hub.
Work side to side with TAPS! Don't try and hammer the race out all on one side, work back and forth and the race will walk out pretty easily...
When INSTALLING a race, you can 'Borrow' (with deposit) a seal and bearing driver set from most auto parts stores and they make things MUCH easier than trying to do it with hammer and drift!
Just make sure you keep things SQUARE when you are installing, so the race doesn't get cocked in the bore and jam without seating!
NEVER, EVER use a steel tool on a race or bearing!
If you have to do it the hard way, use a brass Drift (like a punch made of brass but without taper) because brass can't scratch bearing steel.
Just the carbon from a steel punch can ruin a new bearing, you don't even have to mark the face!
Don't find any serious pits, scratches, 'Warbles', chatter marks, ect,
MOVE ON TO THE BEARINGS!
CLEAN THEM UP GOOD!
Roll them slowly over your finger, check the bearing rollers closely for pits, scratches, 'Warbles', chatter marks, ect.
IF you find any, REPLACE BERING AND RACE AS A SET!
If you don't find any significant wear, they are fine to reuse, (and 90% of the time they will be fine if they were installed correctly the last time!)...
If they are OK, then you need to PACK the bearings...
You can do this by hand, which requires nothing more than a gob of grease in the palm/heel of one hand, and the bearing held so it can't rotate in the other...
You simply 'Slap' the bearing in the grease until the grease is forced in the large end of the bearings...
If you take small 'Bites' off the grease gob as you pack the bearings, you will make a MUCH smaller mess...
You can also put your bearings in a vacuum bag, shoot some grease on top of them (Tapered end) and use the vacuum packer to suck the grease into them!
For about $5 you can buy a "grease needle" at the parts store, and use the grease gun to 'Shoot' grease in the voids of the bearing....
For about $10 you can get a 'Bearing Packer' made of plastic,
Doesn't work very well and makes a mess, but it's an option...
Once the bearings are 'Packed', you need to FILL THE HUB UP WITH GREASE.
I mean get as much grease as you can to stay in there!
Where grease is, moisture and dirt can not be!
I even use a grease needle and fill the void up between hub and spindle once the hub is back on the spindle!
I drill my hubs so I can put grease 'Zerks' in to fill that void!
This has saved my wheel bearings more times than I can count!
DON'T FORGET TO GREASE THE RACES BEFORE YOU DROP THE BEARINGS ON THEM!
And grease the inside lip of the grease seal too so it doesn't start dry when things are back together!