|
.jpg-1311806189.jpg)
 |
|
|
|
>
Calling JEEPHAMMER!!!, dana 30 Wheel Bearing Help?
| Truck-Lite's New LED Headlamp Series | 4.25" 97-06 Jeep TJ Wrangler Lift Kit - NO SYE Needed | Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit! |
 |
01-17-2009, 10:13 PM
|
#1 | |
|
Registered User
1982 CJ7
|
Calling JEEPHAMMER!!!, dana 30 Wheel Bearing Help?
I'm a weekend/backyard mechanic (no fancy tools, no welding skills) I have to replace/change out my dana 30 front wheel bearings and related seals. I have a 1976 CJ7 my front axle is with disc brakes.
I heard there is two diffrent set of wheel bearings for each side of the axle, and seals. I hope this is not too difficult to do, if it requires the removal of the axle cover and messing with the ring and pinion forget it, I wont do it, I will probably Mess things up more than they already are. please provide me guidance mr. JeepHammer and others. aloha from Hawaii, Reyt
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
01-17-2009, 10:19 PM
|
#2 |
|
Web Wheeler
 
1979 CJ7
|
The hub has an inner and outer bearing. You do not have to remove the differential cover or the axles themselves. You will need a set of snap ring pliers and the large hub nut socket. It is fairly easy to do. Pressing in/out the bearing races are going to be the hardest part. Once the hub is off you can take it somewhere to have this done for you if needed but you should be able to do it yourself with a hammer and punch. Jeephammer tends to do the full write up's so we can wait for the step by step from him. I currently have mine off of my Jeep so I could take a few pictures for you if needed.
__________________
Mike My build thread 1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker. |
|
|
|
|
01-17-2009, 11:34 PM
|
#3 |
|
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5
|
OK!
Here is a thread you might want to reference, since it covers most of what we are going to cover here... (Good reason for a 'Search' before you post!) http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/what-dana-30-spindle-bearings-should-i-use-559139/ ------------------------------- First, you have to obtain a 'Spindle Nut Socket'. DO NOT USE A CHISEL! Only IDIOTS use chisels on the only thing keeping the wheel on! http://www.milemarker.com/4x2accessories.html http://www.cyberjeep.com/prodinfo.asp?number=A692N Anywhere from $6 to $50 depending on where you find it, and every Jeep supplier has them! Here is a pretty good exploded view including the socket you need. Regular sockets are WAY EXPENSIVE in this size, and most have sidewalls that are too thick!  The 'Spindle Nut Socket' is the ONLY thing you need that is a 'Specialty' item for this project... And EVERY Jeeper should have one of these! Everything else is 'common' or 'Rental' from the chain parts stores... ----------------------------------- OK, you need to take the Lockouts off if you have them. there are SEVERAL different kinds, so without pictures of yours, I can't tell you how to do that. They may have 'Allen' (hex) head screws, they may have 9/16" head bolts, they may have studs and nuts... There are all kinds, including the Jeeps that don't have lockouts at all! If you have a Jeep that had or has a factory 'Q-track' transfer case, you only have drive flanges will little domed covers on the outside... (The image above has 'Domed Covers' and drive flanges instead of lock outs) Anyway, remove the domed covers or lockouts, and CAREFULLY Lay the parts on laid out paper towels in the order you took them out. ---------------------- Once you figured out the 'Lockout' or Drive Flange, It's time to remove the brake caliper... Most brake calipers have a single bolt holding the locks in on the outside, facing the passenger compartment. It will be about 1/4" Allen (hex), and the head will be oversize like a big button standing up.  This is A VERY GOOD TIME to replace brake pads and rotors if you need to! When you take this out, take time to study the arrangment/location of the parts around it. It can be a Pain In The Butt to get this back together correctly if you don't pay attention to the wedge and spring this screw locks in place! Use a small hammer and a 1/4" punch and drive the wedge holding the caliper in the bracket out. Again, watch the way the two fit together, and where they are coming from so you can get them back in correctly! Once the wedge and spring are removed, the caliper will pull straight off the rotor (up and back towards the passenger compartment. It might not want to go if you have a lot of rust on the outside edge of your rotor, you may have to give it some 'Persuasion'....  DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG BY THE BRAKE LINE! Use wire ties or wire to keep it from hanging by the brake line! ----------------------------------- GET OUT THE PAPER TOWELS & BRAKE CLEANER SPRAY CAN AND CLEAN OFF WHAT'S UNDER THE CAP OR LOCKOUT. Is this a GOOD time to mention a garbage can & having hand cleaner around? Always good to have one handy when working with greasy stuff! You will see the center 'Stub' axle sticking through the center of the hub. It has a Outside Lock Ring on it, and you will need a common set of 'Snap Ring Pliers' to get it off.  I get the ones with several different tips so I don't have to beat myself up looking for the 'Specific' set of plies that fits a 'Specific' size snap ring! Take that snap ring off, and the rest of the Hub or drive flange should come off the stub axle... Then you will see the spindle nuts. Only cheap bastards won't buy new spindle nuts when they are damaged, so don't be one of those! This is what holds your wheels on, so spend $3 for reasonable nuts! You will find an OUTSIDE nut, and you should have a need to straighten the washer behind it to get it off. That is a LOCKING DEVICE to keep your nuts from getting away! (Punch and hammer again) Outside nut, Large Washer, Inside nut, Small waster with 'Tab' Bearing. Once the two nuts are off, you can yank outward on the hub/rotor and it will all come off together... Not much to it once you master the lockout and and brake caliper assemblies. Here is another pretty good exploded view of those parts,  ------------------------------------ And you will find the Inside 'Hub' or 'Wheel' bearing on the back side of the hub under a grease seal... Pry the grease seal out and remove the bearing, clean both bearings up REALLY WELL! ALWAYS CHANGE THE GREASE SEAL WHEN YOU SERVICE THE HUBS! For $2 it just doesn't make sense not to! ----------------------------------- Once ALL The grease is cleaned out of the hubs, you want to take a look at the 'RACES'... That's the part of the bearing that doesn't have 'Rollers'...  The 'Shiny' part inside the hub is the 'Bearing Race'... There is one in the back of the hub also, you need to inspect both for 'Warbles' , 'Pits', Scratches, ect. Any serious damage, and they need to be replaced as a SET... Bearing AND Race! You MUST NOT put new bearings on old races, or old bearings on new races! This shows a bearing 'Race' that is brand new... Just because they are 'New' doesn't mean they are 'Defect Free'. Check them for any problems before and AFTER install. Thing DO go wrong during install!  Notice the notches in the inside of the hub (where the red straw is). These grooves are provided for you so you can drive a defective race out of the hub. Work side to side with TAPS! Don't try and hammer the race out all on one side, work back and forth and the race will walk out pretty easily... When INSTALLING a race, you can 'Borrow' (with deposit) a seal and bearing driver set from most auto parts stores and they make things MUCH easier than trying to do it with hammer and drift! Just make sure you keep things SQUARE when you are installing, so the race doesn't get cocked in the bore and jam without seating! NEVER, EVER use a steel tool on a race or bearing! If you have to do it the hard way, use a brass Drift (like a punch made of brass but without taper) because brass can't scratch bearing steel. Just the carbon from a steel punch can ruin a new bearing, you don't even have to mark the face! Don't find any serious pits, scratches, 'Warbles', chatter marks, ect, MOVE ON TO THE BEARINGS! .................. CLEAN THEM UP GOOD! Roll them slowly over your finger, check the bearing rollers closely for pits, scratches, 'Warbles', chatter marks, ect. IF you find any, REPLACE BERING AND RACE AS A SET! If you don't find any significant wear, they are fine to reuse, (and 90% of the time they will be fine if they were installed correctly the last time!)... If they are OK, then you need to PACK the bearings... You can do this by hand, which requires nothing more than a gob of grease in the palm/heel of one hand, and the bearing held so it can't rotate in the other... You simply 'Slap' the bearing in the grease until the grease is forced in the large end of the bearings... If you take small 'Bites' off the grease gob as you pack the bearings, you will make a MUCH smaller mess... OR, You can also put your bearings in a vacuum bag, shoot some grease on top of them (Tapered end) and use the vacuum packer to suck the grease into them! OR, For about $5 you can buy a "grease needle" at the parts store, and use the grease gun to 'Shoot' grease in the voids of the bearing.... OR, For about $10 you can get a 'Bearing Packer' made of plastic, Doesn't work very well and makes a mess, but it's an option... Once the bearings are 'Packed', you need to FILL THE HUB UP WITH GREASE. I mean get as much grease as you can to stay in there! Where grease is, moisture and dirt can not be! I even use a grease needle and fill the void up between hub and spindle once the hub is back on the spindle! I drill my hubs so I can put grease 'Zerks' in to fill that void! This has saved my wheel bearings more times than I can count! DON'T FORGET TO GREASE THE RACES BEFORE YOU DROP THE BEARINGS ON THEM! And grease the inside lip of the grease seal too so it doesn't start dry when things are back together! .................................................. ... Last edited by JeepHammer; 05-03-2009 at 02:03 PM.. |
|
|
|
|
01-18-2009, 01:11 AM
|
#4 |
|
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5
|
Now, that covers the 'Hub' bearings or 'Wheel' bearings...
But there is one more bearing and seal set you need to have a look at/service! It's the SPINDLE BEARING! Remove the 6 ea. 9/16" Wrench size 'Prevailing Torque' nuts holding the brake dust shield and spindle on... (and on early models, they hold the brake caliper mount arm on also), And pull the spindle off.  This spindle can be a B-OTCH! To get off! This is one method, And you can rent the gear puller shown at most chain auto parts stores or tool rental places...  OR, You can buy/rent a spindle puller tools (Auto Zone p/n OEM27104) but don't forget the slide hammer that is needed for that puller! It just threads on the spindle nut threads, then you use the slide hammer to yank the spindle off...  Now, the spindle bearing and it's seals are the #2 most overlooked thing on the front end of a jeep since they don't leak or complain! I use NAPA p/n BK1 for most applications.... Comes as a 5 piece set for about $15 (you will probably need one for each side, but I'd check first...) If the spindle bearing cleans up OK, then regrease, slime up the gaskets, and put it back together. If the bearing is shot, or the gaskets/seals are screwed, time for new parts! Look at the spindle graphic above and the pictures below to figure out how this all goes together!    ---------------------------------------- Some food for though.... While the spindle is off, you simply pull the axle through the hole... It pulls straight out, nothing retaining it now. And check out the U joint, replace if necessary. Check the splines to make sure your axle isn't twisted and ready to break! ------------------------------- MAKE SURE you use new 'Prevailing Torque' nuts when reassembling! They are only good for one use... Torque specs, if you pay attention to that kind of thing!.... 
__________________
REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, |
|
|
|
|
01-18-2009, 01:16 AM
|
#5 |
|
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5
|
*IF*...
You find out your Ball Studs are shot while you are there.... Let me suggest THESE for replacements! Greaseable without having to pull the hub/spindle/axle to grease the top one!   If yours are bad, loosen the nuts, Pop the bottom one with a 'Ball joint Fork' (we call them 'Pickle Forks' and you can borrow/rent them also) then you will need some slick fingers or a socket for the top 'Split Ring'... If you pop the bottom first, usually the 'Split Ring' will come out of the top pretty easy after the ball stud is removed... You can rent the 'C' clamp looking press that removes/installs the ball studs at the parts store... JUST KEEP IN MIND WHAT WAY YOUR GREASE FITTING WILL BE FACING WHEN YOU INSTALL THE TOP ONE!
__________________
REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, |
|
|
|
|
01-18-2009, 01:19 AM
|
#6 |
|
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5
|
Now, when you have changed, fixed, repaired all the shot parts....
Remember! This isn't a race! Take your time, look everything over and learn how it all works together! Remember to use 'Never-Seize' on bolts and metal to metal mating surfaces... You WILL have to do all this again if you wheel very hard or own the jeep more than just a year or two!... Make it easy on yourself and use 'Never-Seize' on those metal to metal fit parts! -------------------- There are NO SUBSTITUTES for TIMKIN bearings and SPICER U Joints! Seals all pretty much come from the same place, but USA made Spicer U Joints are the ticket unless you want to pay $400 for one of those 'Unbreakable' things for a stock Dana 30 Front end! Absolutely nothing runs like TIMKIN bearings and races! I have to order them and wait on them around here, but it's worth every penny of extra expense, and every day I have to wait! ---------------------------------- Spindle Bearings ride on the bearing surface of the 'Stub Axle'... Use Emery Cloth (not sand paper!) and clean off that surface until it's shiny, then grease that surface before you put the axle back in or the spindle back on. Sand paper in-beds grit in metal, emery is designed NOT to. You want a shiny surface because this bearing might not ride in the same place as the LAST bearing! ---------------------------------- Use NOTHING but a high quality, high temprature, high pressure FULLY SYNTHETIC grease in/on the bearings! Synthetic withstands higher temps, pressures, and REPELS MOISTURE! Where 'Petroleum' grease actually ATTRACTS MOISTURE! It's well worth the extra $2.50 a tube to NOT have to do this two or three times every season! AND, Grease is a darn sight cheaper than new bearings, seals, ect. every time you tear things down! -------------------------- WHERE GREASE IS, MOISTURE CAN'T BE! -------------------------- DON'T FORGET TO GREASE THE SEALS WHERE THEY RUB ON METAL! A DRY seal is a DEAD seal in the first 5 minutes! -------------------------- DO NOT hammer on the spindle bearing! It doesn't have to 'Bottom Out'... It only has to be in far enough for the little grease seal to fit in the bore with it! Lots of guys ruin the little roller bearing right away by hammering it in too far and too hard! Use a socket the correct size to drive that bearing if you don't have a seal and bearing rental kit that goes down that small... ------------------ When you are tightening up the inner spindle nut... DON'T FORGET THE LITTLE WASHER BETWEEN OUTER BEARING AND INSIDE NUT! And you HAVE NOT changed races/bearings in the hub... You are looking to take all the top to bottom, side to side play out of the bearings, but have NO DRAG when you spin the rotor/hub... If you HAVE changed the bearings, Tighten the inner nut up to about 50 Ft.Lbs. then back it off. The 50 Ft.Lb. should seat the races without damaging the bearings. Once backed off, tighten like above, shake the rotor side to side, top to bottom and see if there is any 'Play' in the wheel bearings... You want ZERO lash or play in the bearings, but no drag when you spin the rotor/hub. -------------------------------- Outer spindle nut should be 'Grunted' on! (About 65 Ft.Lbs) The inner nut is the bearing preload and keeps the outside bearing from damaging anything, so you can bear down on it pretty good. Then the large washer bent OUTWARD over the outside nut. ------------------------------- Remember, gravity has probably made the brake fluid push the piston in the caliper out, so you will probably need to push the piston back in. There are 'Specialty' tools for that, but I just use a large 'C' clamp to push the sucker back in there so I can get the caliper back on the rotor! The spring and wedge lock can be a PAIN to get back in place to lock down the caliper in it's mount... This is where that 'Good Look' is going to pay off! Don't forget to 'Never Seize' the metal to metal surfaces on that caliper to bracket! DO NOT twist off the brake caliper lock bolt! It's VERY easy to break once you have been 'Heavy Lifting' on the other stuff! Remember to pump your brake pedal two or three times when you are done, to get the piston back out against the rotor.... Just two or three long, slow strokes and you should be fine since we didn't open the system! ---------------------- This is VERY important! Your lug studs should have about 80 Ft.Lbs. of torque, and you shouldn't have to 'Re-torque' but once if you didn't change rotors. If the ROTORS were Changed... Then you will need to RETORQUE the lug nuts a couple of times a day, for several days! See, the lug studs go thought the rotor & hub, holding the entire mess together. Most places don't get the lug studs pressed all the way back in like they are supposed to be! So as the studs get pulled through the hub/rotor, the nuts get loose, and you WILL loose a tire/wheel if you don't pay attention to this! ------------------------- It DOES NOT hurt anything to use Never Seize on lug studs/Nuts! If NASCAR does it and can keep wheels on, then you will be able to also, no matter what the 'Shade Tree' mechanics tell you! ------------------------- If the 'C' clip groove doesn't want to show it's self when you put the inside part of the lockout or drive flange back on... Stick a pry bar in the axle U joint and pry outward... It's just being stubborn and doesn't want to come through! (And this is VERY common!) R
__________________
REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, Last edited by JeepHammer; 01-18-2009 at 01:55 AM.. |
|
|
|
|
01-18-2009, 01:57 AM
|
#7 | |
|
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5
|
Quote:
__________________
REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, |
|
|
|
|
|
01-18-2009, 02:02 AM
|
#8 | |
|
Web Wheeler
1979 CJ7
|
Quote:
__________________
Mike My build thread 1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker. |
|
|
|
|
|
01-18-2009, 02:05 AM
|
#9 |
|
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5
|
Think I stressed 'NEVER-SEIZE' and GOOD GREASE enough?
Probably should have hammered on Timkin and Spicer parts more? $6 difference between the 'Store Premium' brand and Spicer U joints here... Broke both 'Premium' U joints in 100 yards of each other, and it just HAD to be in a MUD PIT on a 100 Degree day with mosquitoes, deer files and 'No See'em' eating me alive! Jack kept sinking in the mud, and if you sat down, the hole filled with black stinking crap from the stagnant water! REALLY miserable place to brake down without a winch or enough traction to get out to fix it! (Just got all the tools and crap put away, and BANG again! ) Went back to Spicer, No problems! To my way of thinking, While it's tore down, fix everything right you don't want to do 2 or 3 more times in short order! If you can't take it off in 5 minutes with a belt pouch 'Multi-Tool'... FIX IT NOW!
__________________
REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, Last edited by JeepHammer; 01-18-2009 at 02:15 AM.. |
|
|
|
|
01-18-2009, 02:22 AM
|
#10 |
|
Web Wheeler
1979 CJ7
|
I'll have to admit Spicer are the joints that lasted the longest in my Jeep. Even using Spicers I had a problem were I broke a u-joint then cracked another shortly after. I replaced them with two non-greaseable Spicer joints and they lived until now. I just picked up a set of Federal Mogul "Super Strength" u-joints to give them a try and because I really wanted greaseable u-joints. It won't be finished for another year and there is not a lot of wheelin around here so it will see the street more than the trails. I'll keep both the Spicers as spares. If one breaks, I will replace them both.
__________________
Mike My build thread 1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker. |
|
|
|
|
01-18-2009, 09:02 AM
|
#11 |
|
Registered User
1970 CJ5
|
Also note, you say your axle is a '76 with discs, so you you need to find out what was swapped. There are two different sized inner bearings and seals used on the CJ D30; make sure you know what you've got before you order parts.
__________________
My '70 CJ5 Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/my-jeep-build-thread-359375/ |
|
|
|
|
01-18-2009, 01:07 PM
|
#12 |
|
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5
|
'76 Factory order discs were the same as '77-'78 Factory Standard disc brakes.
Caliper bracket had 6 mounting bolts, discs, hubs, everything was the same as '77-'78, so if the kid on the phone or at the counter tells you there "Isn't Any Disc Brakes In '76", Tell him '77-'78 parts will work. If by chance you have a Conversion from a newer Jeep, '79 to (I think...)'86, the caliper bracket will have two bolts and bolts to the steering knuckle Where an early '76 to '78, 6 bolt bracket bolts to the six spindle bolts... Looking for images of the two... TWO BOLT CALIPER BRACKET, '79 to '86  These are '6 Bolt' calipers... 
__________________
REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, Last edited by JeepHammer; 01-18-2009 at 01:38 PM.. |
|
|
|
|
01-18-2009, 01:15 PM
|
#13 | |
|
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5
|
Quote:
I'm INTERESTED! Got a part number? Source? I'd trust a part from Federal Mogul enough to risk a set of axles to one! ------------------------- NO ONE makes better engine bearings than Federal Mogul. The Clevite 77 bearings are absolutely the best on the market and have been for the past 30 years or so! Once you take a few engines apart, do some abrasive testing of bearings, there just is NO CONTEST between the Clevite 77 bearings and any other brand! (Just for future reference!) I'd try their U joints on the basis of their engine bearings and piston rings/valve guides alone!
__________________
REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, |
|
|
|
|
|
01-18-2009, 01:27 PM
|
#14 |
|
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5
|
Some quick brake information tid bits...
*IF* You have the '6 bolt Calipers, then you have the 'Big Brakes'.. That means the rotors are 1-1/8" thick and the calipers are slightly larger. *IF* You have the two bolt calipers, you have the 7/8" thick rotors, and the calipers are slightly smaller. It's the same master cylinder for both brakes if you need one anytime soon. Get some 'Anti-Squeal' silicone stuff for the back of old and new pads alike. Shoot a fat bead across the back of the outside pads, and let it stand up before you install. I'll add more as it comes to mind...
__________________
REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, |
|
|
|
|
01-18-2009, 02:27 PM
|
#15 | |
|
Web Wheeler
1979 CJ7
|
Quote:
__________________
Mike My build thread 1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker. |
|
|
|
|
|
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
|
«
Previous Thread
|
Next Thread
»
|
| Suggested Threads |
|
 |
|
|
Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.
|
