Buying a set of Taps & Dies, some Easyouts, and a Helicoil kit
Buying a set of Taps & Dies, some Easyouts, and a Helicoil set for repairing my Tub and Bellhousing.
Well, one of the previous owners of my CHeep did a real number on the thing. When I yanked the trans I found cross threaded and poorly secured bolts on the bellhousing, and I keep finding things like windshield hinges that are poorly secured, or door hinges that are not well secured, or broken off bolts that hold the skid plate up. Basically… I have a LOT of thread repairs in my future!
(Everything is either siezed or its backed off/missing)
Im assuming that most everything that secures to the body, frame and bellhousing are going to be UNC (Course thread imperial) threads, right?
Since I want tools that will last forever (But cannot afford Snap on) are there any suggestions from ya’ll on things to look for on these types of tools?
Buying a set of Taps & Dies, some Easyouts, and a Helicoil set for repairing my Tub and Bellhousing.......
I am satisfied with the 76 piece Irwin/Hanson tap and die set I bought a while back. Definitely used the 5/16-18 and 3/8-16 the most, but many of the others have come in handy. The metric comes in handy if you work on something other than your Jeep. A set of machine drills can come in handy to make new holes for tapping.
The important thing is using them properly. Don't rush or force, and back off to clear the shavings regularly. Use a cutting oil also.
I have a limited set of Craftsmen easy outs. I use them as a last resort. Seems I mostly break them off in the work piece making the job 100 time harder. Frozen bolts = penetrating oil, heat, patience followed by more penetrating oil, heat, patience etc. Heli-Coils I purchase from the ACE hardware as needed.
I bought the Irwin Hansan 117 piece deluxe set. Got the best deal through Sears on it. Snap On man told me that Erwin Hansan makes the sets for Snap On..IDK if is true or not, but two different ones told me that...t18a
I have had a tap and die set from Irwin Hansen for about 5 years, and it has been used quite a bit. I am very pleased with it. Taps do get dull over time, for some reason especially when chasing rusted threads, so don't hesitate to order a second individual tap for the common Jeep sizes. Having a second tap will also save a LOT of aggravation when/if you break off a tap in the middle of a job.
A spiral gun tap in two or three flute works good on a cordless drill on sizes 10-32 and up, I have used them to do 3/8" threads. Use the starter type (or taper as some call it) for most holes,, this cleans and chases threads nice too. The reason they work better than a hand tap is the chips (curls) get pushed forward so you can do it in one maybe two gos at it. With a hand tap it is back and forth all the way through to clear the chips out of the valley, this binds the hand tap when the chips pack in, risking a break, Broken taps in any hole suck.
These do not do blind holes (or non through) very well, you can start the blind hole with a spiral tap and let them hit bottom, then switch to the bottom tap to get the threads on the bottom of the hole.
When using a drill, get comfortable, loose grip and hold straight, once the tap starts let it float with no pressure un-like we do when drilling. Stop and back out right away, don't take your hand off the drill till it is out, I have learned the hard way, leave it in a then bump it and you break a tap and good clean hole needs to be cleared. LOL
Also, a fluid like Cool Tool or Rapid Tap makes the cut cleaner, easier and prolongs the tap's life.