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Unread 02-27-2012, 04:25 PM   #16
PROJECT 23
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1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: North Ridgeville, Ohio
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I know. This thing is getting to be a real pain in the azz with this paint project. I really can't go againest the wife as she is a nurse and scares the crap out of me with pictures and stats. Sometimes you have to pick your battles, but this is not one of them........
Plus with all these threads that I have been starting regarding the paint, it helps get my post count up

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Unread 02-28-2012, 06:18 AM   #17
Bobs85Reny
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There are a few companies that make a waterborne paint. I think sherwin williams makes one. I have no experience with it and I am not sure what type of equipment is needed to shoot it. Its something you may want to look into.
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Unread 02-28-2012, 06:59 AM   #18
inovermyhead2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobs85Reny View Post
There are a few companies that make a waterborne paint. I think sherwin williams makes one. I have no experience with it and I am not sure what type of equipment is needed to shoot it. Its something you may want to look into.
My understanding is that waterbourne paints can't be sprayed at home. They require a spray booth. As a matter of fact, if I remember correctly, a conventional downdraft spray booth needs to have a conversion done to make the transition to waterbourne paint. I think it needs to have air nozzles blowing down on the vehicle or something like that.
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[QUOTE]whoever invented Torx bolts should be shot in the face, burned then pissed on - saskcj7[/QUOTE]
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Unread 02-28-2012, 07:28 AM   #19
Bobs85Reny
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I don't know to much about it. I had posted for some info on it a while back because I was interested in it myself. My next question to you is if your not going to paint it because of the fumes. How are you going to handle the bodywork and primer? That stuff isn't much better but don't worry I won't tell.
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Unread 02-28-2012, 07:40 AM   #20
PROJECT 23
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There is minimal body work needed. I have two small dings which I bought a dent puller to assist with fixing these. Other than that the sheet metal is very solid. The original soft top snap holes on the tub and tailgate will be filled by the paint shop via welding.
The only thing I really need to worry about is removing the bed liner that I rolled on the door sills and around the outer edge of the tub. This will be rolled back on when I get Project 23 back because I like the protection and the way it looks.
So I will not be exposed to any kind of fumes during this process. I know it sounds crazy, but I guess my wife really does love me after all
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Unread 02-28-2012, 07:45 AM   #21
TxJeeper20
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You asked about removing bedliner ? I have some of that duplicolor spray bedliner it served its purpose when my jeep was a bruised bag of apples but I a mwanting to go with raptor liner and need to either remove all of it or remove some areas that are flakin were proper prep work wasnt done by my dad whats your call

strip it all or just areas that are flaking ? how to remove it ?
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Unread 02-28-2012, 07:51 AM   #22
PROJECT 23
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I actually did start removing the bedliner last weekend. I used a putty knife and was able to catch some spots where my prep work lacked proper technique. That and being cold out in the garage probably helped with flaking that stuff off.
By all means, I am still having a tough time with removing it so if anybody has a better method with removing this stuff, please spill the beans.
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Unread 02-28-2012, 07:52 AM   #23
bobthecatkiller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROJECT 23
I actually did start removing the bedliner last weekend. I used a putty knife and was able to catch some spots where my prep work lacked proper technique. That and being cold out in the garage probably helped with flaking that stuff off.
By all means, I am still having a tough time with removing it so if anybody has a better method with removing this stuff, please spill the beans.
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Unread 02-28-2012, 07:53 AM   #24
inovermyhead2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxJeeper20 View Post
You asked about removing bedliner ? I have some of that duplicolor spray bedliner it served its purpose when my jeep was a bruised bag of apples but I a mwanting to go with raptor liner and need to either remove all of it or remove some areas that are flakin were proper prep work wasnt done by my dad whats your call

strip it all or just areas that are flaking ? how to remove it ?
I heard somewhere that if you apply paint stripper on top of the bedliner and then lay a sheet of plastic over the top, it will eat away at the bedliner and then it can be removed by scraper. I don't know how long this process takes but it sounds feasable.
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[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/just-another-83-cj7-build-thread-1325757/[/url]

1983 CJ7
350ci Chevy
SM465 Trans
Rancho 2 1/2" lift
Confer Engineering Shackles
32x11.50x15 BFG All Terrains


[QUOTE]whoever invented Torx bolts should be shot in the face, burned then pissed on - saskcj7[/QUOTE]
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Unread 08-11-2012, 03:29 PM   #25
scooter71954
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Today I found a possible. Brush cleaner dissolves this stuff in minutes.
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Unread 08-11-2012, 06:53 PM   #26
mminorhsd
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MAACO. The local shop did my 1972 Ford F-100 6 years ago, and it still looks great. And a lot less than $1500.00
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Unread 02-02-2013, 05:33 PM   #27
kappa505
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I removed my bedliner today as well as the paint from my tub and hood. I used rust oleum aircraft stripper. It was about 60 out and sunny today when I applied it. The parts of the tub that the sun was shining on evaporated the stripper pretty quickly. The shaded parts stripped much easier so after the first coat I moved the tub into the shade and re applied another thick coat. I let this sit for about 40 min. The bed liner was actually easier to remove than the paint. I used two gallons from summit which was having a sale in the stuff for like 22 dollars a gallon. Covering with plastic may work as long as the plastic does not touch the stripper as it will eat the plastic. I dissolved many sets of nitrile gloves. Took about 2 hours total with scraping.
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Unread 02-02-2013, 07:19 PM   #28
timgr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROJECT 23 View Post
Whelp, I have another update regarding Project 23's paint job. The wifey pooh has been doing research on the overall painting process and she is not a happy camper. To make a long story short, she doesn't want me exposed to paint fumes even if I have a respirator and ventilation. There is no half azzing a make shift spray booth using box fans to get the air flowing.
So with this we are going to fund a paint job which will max out at $1500. So with that I have scheduled to meet with the owner of a shop about 5 minutes from my house. I have met with him in the past to get a quote, but I want to make sure I know what I'm getting for the money. I also want to see what kind of prep work I can do to keep the cost down.
So with that being said, I guess that my trip to the paint shop will not be happening.
These kinds of paint jobs can come out really good - I've done a couple of them. Look around for a one-day shop that does good work, and get the best quality paint they offer. It'll come out nice, and shooting it yourself isn't that much cheaper...
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Unread 02-02-2013, 09:09 PM   #29
jayzcj5
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Putting plastic over the stripper holds in the vapors from the stripper therefor allowing the stripper to better do its job. As the other post said, the part of the body that was in the sun didn't do as well. this is because the vapors evaporated quickly and the solvents did not penetrate the bedliner. Get some painters masking plastic from a autobody supply shop/site. www.tcpglobal.com is a good one, the plastic has many uses...http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ks3m400-6.aspx
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