I have a 1980 CJ7 with AMC360 and T150. My T150 is starting to have the ever dreaded 1st gear syncro "gear pop" in 1st on take off. I have been doing TONS of research. I have come to the conclusion that a T18 with Jeep 6.3:1 first gear will be the best. Since you have a Muncie, you might consider a SM420. It has similar low gear (actually 6.9:1 I think) and may fit in your existing setup. They are also cheaper and more readily available. I have looked far and wide for T18 in junkyards and have been unsuccessful. The problems as I understand them areas follows, the length of the SM420 may require a CV rear driveshaft. I think I found one thin adapter for the D20that was 7/8th inch, but even with that it is longer than the T18. Both of the transmissions are "hosses" and weigh alot. Crossmember beware. Anyway, if anyone knows of a good T18 with the 6.3 first, please let me know. This is what I want for mine. Cool Jeep.
The project took another turn today. The engine choice grew by a few cubic inches. I found a (.030) AMC 401 with forged pistons today on CL and picked it up for $250. One cylinder has a scratch (which probably could be honed) however I'm going to bore it out to .040 and start fresh. I'll build it identical to the (.040) AMC 401 I built and put in my 79 CJ7. I have an entire TBI setup off of a Chevy 454 sitting on my shelf that I will put on it instead of a carb. Even though I had the 304 already I couldn't pass up a 401 for this project.
My 79 CJ7 with a 401 is alot of fun, it'd be even better if I put a manual back in it.
I stripped down, sand blasted and painted my Hurst trans shifter parts so they're ready to be reassembled. My buddy welded the stick back up nice and clean. I'll work on the shifter while he is welding up my 2nd attempt at a crossmember. This time I used 1 1/2 square .188 wall tubing. Here's a pic:
He's got a 220v Miller he welds nicely so I'll let him go to town on it. My mounting plate will be welded to the upper left hand corner and there will be three down tubes(angled) on each side from the 3/8's bar mounting flanges I have bolted to the frame rails . Then we'll add a few gussets for strength.
I've kept track of purchases and sales to get a figure on how much I'm into this project for already so here it goes, this does not include steel or hardware:
Initial purchase $700
Parts sold - $655
New Parts + $1940
I failed to take pictures of the Hurst Shifter during the tear down and paid for it. Hurst does not provide any information on the rebuild of their Hurst Competition Plus Shifters but you can send them back to Hurst for a full rebuild = $$$$$$$$. Luckily I found this on Youtube....I don't know who the guy is but he saved my *** by making these two videos. Here's the two video links for the rebuild of Hurst Competition Plus 4 speed Shifters. I need to replace a broken pin and I'll be done with it. Just FYI if you're doing the same thing, the tension pins are 5/32'nds x 1 1/4 inch. Found them at Lowe's. Total cost of my shifter rebuild .88 cents...
Part 1: YouTube - Hurst Competition Plus 4 speed shifter Rebuild Part 1
Part 2: YouTube - Hurst Competition Plus 4 speed shifter Rebuild part 2a
I got the frame and mounting plate of my crossmember built, now I have to make the down tubes to tie it all together with the mounting flanges. I need to find someone locally with a bandsaw to make some cuts on them. Then it's off to finish all the welds of the stuff that's tacked in right now. I'm making progress...twenty minutes at a time.
Had some time yesterday to cut the down tubes for my crossmember and tack them in. Once my friend welds them up with his 220v welder I'll set it back in place and tack the mounting flanges on so he can finish it up. I'll also need to add in some angles to strengthen it. I couldn't find anyone with a bandsaw so I used my "sloppy" chop saw to cut the angles in the tubes, it went surprisingly well and I still have about 6 feet of tube left over. Here it is so far...Can't wait to get past this point, feels like I've been stuck here forever....
Time for some comic relief...I'm cruising in my 79 yesterday (top off of course) and I'm doing about 50 down the road. As I'm running through the mental checklist while I'm driving (Engine sounds great, transmission is shifting nice, gauges are all reading perfect...come on you all know you do it) I see something flying at my head out of my periphial on the drivers side. I duck at the last second to see a damn KamiKazi Pigeon burst into a cloud of feathers as it impacts my rollcage just above where my head was. Crash and burn dumb bastard , better you than me ...glad I didn't roll my Jeep..
Thought you guys would get a kick outta that.... Hopefully I get to make some more progress on my 83' soon...
I got the crossmember back from my friend today. I'm gonna have do some grinding on this thing to make it fit just right, hopefully I can get that done tomorrow. If I don't get this crossmember built and bolted up by the end of the month the T-150 is going in and the Muncie is going on CL so I can move along with my build. It wouldn't be the first time I changed the drivetrain plans anyway...
Well much like I said yesterday... today brought frustration, I ran into clearance problems with the SM420 retainer on the Muncie M20 so I got fed up and pulled it out and dropped the T150 in. Kinda sucks to put all that time (and $$$) into making the crossmember and rebuilding the shifter only to scrap that whole idea, but better I find out it won't work now than when trying to take it for it's first ride. I would like to stick with a manual but prefer a four speed over the three speed. I found a T176/Dana300 and an NP435 locally and may look into them. I figure if I stick with original Jeep parts I should have "minimal" problems. Atleast I'll make some money off the Muncie trans, Novak retainer and Hurst shifter (hopefully). Here's how my custom crossmember turned out:
It'll make the top of the scrap metal pile look nice!
It must be me, but I still can't get the stock crossmember to line up even with the T150 in place. Anyone out there have an AMC V8/T150 in a 80's CJ7 frame that can post a pic of their crossmember bolted up so I can see what set of frame holes you used?
I picked up a T176/Dana 300 today for this build. We'll see how it all lines up with the stock crossmember. My garage is starting to look like a transmission shop, I've got transmissions laying all over the place!!!