I'm pretty sure that the metal bracket gets bolted directly to your transmission. The poly mount will get sandwiched between the metal bracket and the crossmember. your torque arm will go between the metal bracket and the crossmember as well. This is how I put my T176 trans mount together anyways and its been fine.
Still stuck on the trans mount. I can't get it to line up perfectly with the skid plate so I've been bouncing back and forth between the factory one and the one I made (scratching everything up in the process). Depending on how frustrated I get I may just start on a new skid plate. "Exposed" made a nice one for his Yellow Bee project and I may try to replicate it. Is it ideal for the motor to sit level from front to back?
The engine is usually angled down towards the rear so the oil drains back to the sump in the pan. The carb mounting flange on the intake is usually angled to compensate. In the past I have put a level on the carb flange and angled the engine so the carb flange is level.
Thanks, I have the motor sitting level in there now so this effects the transfercase output angle. I'm definitely gonna need to make a new skidplate because the bottom of the transfercase will make contact with the first skidplate I made one once I adjust the angle down. I learn by doing....
I bought two sets of used tires and rims today. A well worn set of four 33 x 12.5 interco thornbirds on white 15 x 12 wagon wheels and a near new set of 35 x 12.5 big o xt's on black 15 x 10 steel rims. One of the black rims is bad so the plan is to strip the white wagon wheels down, paint them and put the 35's on them.
Originally Posted by Cjwho
In regards to the grade 8 hardware. Do you have to buy it in pieces or can you buy a kit? You have a really nice build. Keep us posted.
Thanks, I've been buying it piece by piece as I need it from Lowe's, I wish there was a full CJ grade 8 kit out there, it would have to be cheaper as a kit or in bulk./QUOTE]
Grade 8 is not all that for everything. If you have a bolt that will fail in tension (pulling), use grade 8. If you have a bolt that will fail in shear, grade 5 is a better choice, as in shackle bolts.
Learned this in college taking mechanical engineering, just wanted to share. Nice build project, looks like it's going well.
Jeepmor, thanks I didn't know that. Here's a few pics of the tires. I'm quickly running out of space in the garage. I currently have four sets of rims and two sets of tires for this project. Gotta make space. But for $100 I couldn't pass up on the two sets of tires, considering one of the 35 inch tires sells for more than double that new. The thornbirds are really worn and dry rotted.
Making slow progress on my cross member and I need to get another stick of tubing to finish it. I got another smoking CL deal yesterday. I picked up a near new (still has the part number stickers on it) 21 gallon gas tank and skid plate along with a T150 trans/flywheel and bellhousing for $75. So now I have a backup driveline to put in just incase the Muncie doesn't work out (or I get impatient again).
Not much to report. Life has been very busy with family and work so I've had no time to make any progress. I made the trans mount plate for my crossmember so I just need to tie it into my mounting flanges and that will be done. The project is pretty much at a stand still until this occurs because the Jeep is on dollies and the drive train is held up by the motor mounts and a jackstand, so I can't move it around. I tore down the Hurst shifter to rebuild/repair it. The PO made some nasty welds and modifications to the stick and base plate back in the day. I cut that all out and ground it down for reassembly, its ready to be welded up nice and clean. I stripped and painted the gas tank and skid.
I sold off the Thornbirds for a nice profit to cover all my recent parts purchases and actually walk away with $25 bucks. I'm getting rid of some other parts today to make some more money to buy two more black steel rims and a spare to match the 35's. I'll paint the rims to match the frame with the Black Hammered Paint. I tested it on one of the old rims and it looked good.
Hopefully things settle down and I can get back on track.
So I'm looking into the differences of going with the 3spd vs the 4spd. If anyone following has any input please advise.
3spd t150 - Gearing - 3, 1.75, 1
Pros - Stock parts (that I already have on hand) that was designed for this application and I can bolt it up with the factory skid to get this project moving. Probably better for my tire size and current gearing due to the numericaly higher first gear. If I go with this transmission I can sell off the Muncie and the Dana 20 adapter to make some money to further fund this project.
Cons - its a 3 speed and I had the same transmission in my 79 before I dropped in a 401/th400. It's not as cool as a Muncie.
Pros - More gears to run through, not a very common swap, would be cool to do the mods to make it work (especially since I'm new to welding).
Cons - Not a very common swap, The transfercase adapter is no longer made so parts would be a hassle if something breaks. The mods to make it work (which is what is holding me up on this project). Not sure if this is the stronger of the two transmissions. Questionable on whether the Novak front bearing retainer kit for the SM420 would work for the M20 (would suck to do all the work to put it all together and the retainer not work)
I know I've changed directions several times with the drivetrain on this build (from extreme to mild) but I didn't have anything mapped out on paper. With the ghetto budget I learned to be flexable. Basically I don't have a preference between the 3 and 4 spd because in the end I still have to shift. I put an auto in my first two 79 CJ7's so I figured I'd do something different here. Just looking for a little guidance the experienced guys.