BUILD THREAD: Project "Ghetto Fabulous" - Page 6 - JeepForum.com
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post #76 of 800 Old 01-25-2010, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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I picked up and installed some banjo bolts, cleaned and installed the porportion valve and stripped and painted the skid plate. I tried to run a compression test on the 304 and realized that when I never let the tension off the valve springs when I packed the motor away 5 years ago. I hope I won't need to replace them due to wear from sitting so long with tension on them.







I'm still waiting for my bellhousing to arrive so I can bolt up the motor/trans/xfer case and see what position the skid plate needs to be mounted in the frame.

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post #77 of 800 Old 01-25-2010, 05:47 PM
Ken4444
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Looking good. As with many build threads, my kids are always eager to see the next level of progress.
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post #78 of 800 Old 01-25-2010, 09:37 PM
black954
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Man, great build you have going on, and it's VERY similar to mine with the exception of the SOA. As for the grade 8 hardware, menards has the best prices on them. They sell it in little baggies, most around $3-$6 each bag. I bought all new chassis hardware for about $150 (most grade 8 and some SS) and I still have at least 100pieces left over. I replaced all the 7/16" hardware on my beadlock wheels for less than $20 with grade 8 bolts and washers.
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post #79 of 800 Old 01-26-2010, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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Thanks guys, it's kinda funny that the google add under my last post is a link to wholesale hardware. I think they're trying to tell me something....
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post #80 of 800 Old 01-29-2010, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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My T5 bellhousing got delivered so I started mocking up the transmission and bellhousing to get some measurements....problems....the retainer kit I bought from Novak is designed for the SM420 not the M20 () so when I went to install it on the trans it wouldn't fully seat do to the oil seal installed in it. The stock M20 retainer did not have an oil seal. The bolt pattern matched the Novak piece but the outside diameter was too small for the AMC bellhousing. I put a call into Novak and we figured out that the SM420 retainer should work in the M20 if I knock out the oil seal and install it without it (the stock retainer didn't have one anyway). Problem solved...onto the next one...The P/O drilled out the bolt holes in the stock bearing retainer and transmission case to allow for larger bolts, the hardware that came with the new retainer is now too small and the larger bolts don't fit in the new retainer so I drilled out the new retainer for the larger ones..problem solved..onto the next one..With the new retainer installed I set the trans onto the bellhousing and marked the location for the new bolt holes with a punch (that was the easy part). I drilled out the first three bolt holes then on the fourth my drill bit snapped off flush when drilling my pilot hole, attempts to remove it were met with negative results and when trying to drill over it the hole got a little sloppy..problem.. so instead of tapping threads in all of the new bellhousing holes I drilled them a little larger so I could pass new 7/16ths bolts through them from inside the bellhousing and secure it with nuts on the back of the transmission case ears. Turns out that I had to do it this way anyway because the P/O also drilled out the threads in the mounting ears on the trans case so I have large 1/2 inch holes with no way to tap them. The only other question in this swap is gonna be the pilot bushing for the crank, the one that came with the Novak kit should work but I'll have to wait and see. I need to make another trip to Lowe's for new hardware..Here's some pictures.

Bellhousing before:

Bellhousing after new holes:

Novak retainer vs stock retainer:

Novak retainer vs stock retainer inside:

Novak retainer minus the oil seal:

Lined up ready to mark holes:


I test fit the pilot bushing on the trans input shaft and it fits, I ASSume that because it is designed for an AMC swap that it will fit in the crank. Once it's all bolted up I'm gonna tear it all down, strip, blast and paint it all.
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post #81 of 800 Old 01-30-2010, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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I mated up the Engine/transmission and set it in the frame for mock up today. The combo went together easily. Turns out that I will have to make a custom crossmember/skidplate for this combo. The stock skidplate would not line up no matter which way I turned it. I wish I would've checked this before I spent all that time stripping and painting the original skidplate. Here's some pics:

Mated up:


Left side:


Right side:


Front:
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post #82 of 800 Old 01-31-2010, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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I installed the xfercase today for mock up. With the engine sitting level front to back the only part of the drivetrain that sticks below the framerails is the bottom 1 inch of the dana 20. I'm gonna attempt a flat skidplate. Is there a preferred angle for the xfercase output yoke to be set at? Pics:

Left side:


Under frame rail left side:


Bottom of dana 20:


Drivetrain front to back:
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post #83 of 800 Old 02-16-2010, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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I started making the crossmember. This is my first attempt at making anything for the Jeep so go easy on me. I know most people recommended I use larger tube than the 1 inch square tube that I already have, but I'm gonna try to make do with what I have. If it doesn't workout then I'll change it.

I bought a 4 foot piece of 3/8 flat bar and cut it in half. Marked and drilled four mounting holes in each (which was an adventure with my Harbor Freight cheap a$$ drill bits) and then bolted it up to the frame. I just cut and tacked in square tube cross sections until I had what looked like a crossmember. Then I took it off and tacked in some cross bars and also some additional tie ins where the tube attach to the flange (to add some strength and surface area to resist the twisting and possibility of them pulling off). I am by no means a welder and my tacks even look horrible so I'm gonna take it to a buddy's house to have it all welded up with a 220V machine (I only have a 110V Lincoln. I'm gonna add another small 3/8th's plate to the top of it for the trans mount location and skin it with something lighter on the bottom. It will only hang down about 1 3/4 inches from the frame when it's done.





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post #84 of 800 Old 02-16-2010, 08:49 PM
black954
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Looks good, though I do have a few suggestions.
Strength comes in triangulation, so it would be stronger if you made a series of gussets that made triangles instead of the "H" intersections, but I think you should be ok if you plate it after the framework is welded. I would also recommend welding as much as you can with it bolted to the frame because it will warp if you don't, especially with a 220v welder turned up. Your 110v welder might work better cause it won't put as much heat into the welds and warp as easily. With the exception of the 3/8" plate, the 110 welder will be just fine with the wall thickness of the square tubing.
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post #85 of 800 Old 02-17-2010, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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Thanks for the input, I'll add some angles in there to strengthen it up a bit.
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post #86 of 800 Old 02-27-2010, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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I finished the flat skid plate today and bolted it up. It actually held up the driveline and fit nicely. However, it was the first thing I've ever welded up for this Jeep and I don't quite trust my welding skills just yet for something so important and load bearing. A few of my welds were pretty ugly and I used my 110v flux core Lincoln so I spent most of the time cleaning up each weld. About three hours into the project I looked over at the original skid plate when I realized that there was one more way to line it up that I never thought of before. Sure enough, all I had to do was drill one new hole in each side to get the original skid plate line up ..problem solved.
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post #87 of 800 Old 02-27-2010, 08:26 PM
CjAl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsujeeper View Post
Are you sure about the frame and tub years? I'm pretty sure that from is a 1980 or newer b/c of the front shock towers. My frame is a 79 and mine were welded to the frame. Someone will know for sure but I think it was 80 or 81 before they went to the bolt on towers.
my 80 has the welded ones. and I KNOW it's stock. but the bolt on ones are a popular upgrade since they are longer
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post #88 of 800 Old 02-27-2010, 08:53 PM
CjAl
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the frame looks good. it may not be very hammered but it's also not real shiny. I HATE shiny frames
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post #89 of 800 Old 02-28-2010, 02:07 AM
Mud-Rock
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Great build thread. Keep it going.
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post #90 of 800 Old 02-28-2010, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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Thanks guys, I'm having trouble with the trans mount and torque arm bushings. I could be doing this all wrong and I don't remember how it came apart so I'm stumped on putting it all back together. Can anyone point me in the right direction or post a pic of yours so I can use it as a reference? Here's what I got so far:





I seem to remember the bracket being bolted directly to the trans and then a mount under the bracket (between it and the crossmember) and the round bushings on the other end in between the bracket and the crossmember. The urethane bushing instructions say to mount it directly to the trans. Any help?
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