Fastenal was closed so no luck on finding the threaded rod today. I looked through my box of old bolts and found an old 3/8 water pump bolt that had the correct thread on one end and was longer. I cut off the coarse thread side and threaded the remainder of it with the correct fine thread.
The old part was 4" long. I installed this new one and now have 4.25" of distance between the link end and the hex adjuster. I tried it again with the engine running and now I hear the clutch dragging as the pedal is depressed. Gears are still grinding. It's been a long time since I had a manual (i swapped an auto into my other cj) and I don't remember ever hearing the clutch drag on it.
Odd that its so far out, what did you change dimensionally with the body? Did you move it forward from the stock position or get a different linkage? Is the pedal going all the way to the floor?
1" body lift, that's all. The engine sits on factory mounts in the factory frame holes. Pedal goes all the way to the floor and is hard. Worst case scenario is that I go buy 3/8 rod and cut/thread to fit.
Transmission is out, what a pain in the **s! I had to pull the entire exhaust out in one piece. The trans jack I bought helped but it took forever to get the trans out. Here's the problem, the clutch disc is in correctly. Flywheel side 'stamped side' is facing the flywheel, now what?!? Looks like the clutch disc might be making contact with the pressure plate bolts once it's tightened down. This jeep is killing me...
I'm thinking the throwout bearing has something to do with it. I remember the one that came with the clutch kit (left in picture) did not fit the trans input so they sent me the one on the right. I just read on Novak's site that a three finger pressure plate requires the longer throwout bearing and the diaphragm style uses the shorter one. The pressure plate I have is the three finger style and the longer T/O bearing doesn't fit the fork or the trans input.
On my old i6 t4 combo i used the bearing on the right. It is possible you have the wrong flywheel, there were variations with different depths to them. Are you using the correct flywheel bolts? If you browse summit, there are differences in head heights of them. At least you didnt pull it for nothing...youre on the right track now just need to figure out what piece is not where it should be
Ran down to Napa this morning, told the guy what I had and walked out with this clutch kit. 10 3/8" clutch disc with 10 spline x 1/8" , diaphragm style pressure plate and the same throw out bearing as the one I tried to use. Here a side by side pic. It bolted right up but I ran out of time today, my kids have parties to go to. Should be all reassembly from here. You can see how big the other one was (pictured on left). Seems like its for a heavy duty application.
Got it all back together today! I plan on road testing it tomorrow. Lining up the transmission for reinstallation wasn't easy so I used some threaded rod in the 3 and 9 o'clock holes in the bell housing as guides. That helped with the fine adjusting. The rest went back together rather quickly. The exhaust took a bit of adjustment with some ratchet straps to get it all connected at the manifolds again. The transmission jack comes in handy and worked well for holding my crossmember in place during reinstallation. I see me using that if I ever have to drop the gas tank too.
Clutch pedal feels good and I can feel the clutch disengage. We'll see how it goes tomorrow. Wish me luck!
Got it all back together today! I plan on road testing it tomorrow. Lining up the transmission for reinstallation wasn't easy so I used some threaded rod in the 3 and 9 o'clock holes in the bell housing as guides. That helped with the fine adjusting. The rest went back together rather quickly. The exhaust took a bit of adjustment with some ratchet straps to get it all connected at the manifolds again. The transmission jack comes in handy and worked well for holding my crossmember in place during reinstallation. I see me using that if I ever have to drop the gas tank too. Clutch pedal feels good and I can feel the clutch disengage. We'll see how it goes tomorrow. Wish me luck!
It runs and drives! I took it for its first drive and it runs smooth, shifts and stops well. I had to air the tires down to get it out of the garage again. The suspension is soft and I will need to add the swaybar back in. It also needs an alignment. I made several trips around the neighborhood before stopping for gas and heading into the dirt where I took these pics!..........looks great standing still huh?!? Cause that's where it got stuck and wouldn't start back up. The starter bogged down.
Some guy saw me out there trying to push it up an incline and rolled up in his truck to help. I tried jumping it = no go. I bump started it in reverse (downhill) but I jumped off the clutch and stalled it out again. Then I was really stuck.
Luckily I was two blocks from my house and my wife came and got me. I returned with my 79' a tow bar and some tools. I turned the crank by hand incase the starter was bound up = no go. The engine is tight but if I can turn it by hand then the starter should be able to also. I whacked the starter with a rubber mallet = no go. It seemed like the positive lug on the starter was loose so I tightened it = no go. By the end it seemed like the starter was making a sizzling sound. So I dropped the trans and both xfercase sticks in neutral pulled it home with the 79'. Back to the drawing board, it was fun while it lasted. It is much more comfortable to drive than my 79'. I love the seats. Alot of the good pics won't upload because of the image size.