post #691 of Old 03-05-2014, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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1979 CJ7 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjjon7 View Post
Ah bummer. The old seal has been trained for the groove in your old yoke ill bet...you replaced the yokes correct?
Yep, I have a new seal to put in there. I also found a part# for a VDO Temp Switch (vdo 232-011-005-019D E) that will work for my fan relays. Now I just gotta find a place that sells it.

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post #692 of Old 03-06-2014, 01:58 PM
243
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You have made a ton of progress since I last looked, very nice.

Every time I look at a build I say "I should have done it like that"

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post #693 of Old 03-06-2014, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243
You have made a ton of progress since I last looked, very nice.

Every time I look at a build I say "I should have done it like that"
Thank you! I followed yours too and your work is impressive. Very detailed and clean.

It's been a long road for this project but the end is near. I definitely had my share of would've - should've - could'ves over the past five years. Right now I'm thinking I should've replaced the Dana300 front yoke seal when I swapped the yokes the other day .
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post #694 of Old 03-07-2014, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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http://s487.photobucket.com/user/mot..._5770.mp4.html

I finally got the video to upload, just had to do it from my laptop.
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post #695 of Old 03-07-2014, 09:23 PM
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What type of coolant bottle are you using? Sounds like the exhaust is popping a little
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post #696 of Old 03-07-2014, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjjon7
What type of coolant bottle are you using? Sounds like the exhaust is popping a little
The coolant bottle was a universal kit I picked up at O'Reilly's. The exhaust popping stopped after the initial high idle lowered a bit.
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post #697 of Old 03-09-2014, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Reset the timing to 10* and the exhaust popping went away. It idles smoother now too. Replaced the front output oil seal also and that leak stopped.
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post #698 of Old 03-11-2014, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Removed the brass 'T' and installed the TBI coolant sensor in the right front port. I bent the terminal on the thermal switch and it cleared the intake when installed in the back of the T-Stat. Fans work when I tested it and it doesn't leak. Hope to drive it tomorrow!
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post #699 of Old 03-14-2014, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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So much for that!

I got all ready to drive it today and it just grinds when I try to put it into reverse. It won't shift into a forward gear with the engine running either. The transmission shifts fine without the engine running but not when it's running and the clutch is engaged. Scratching my head!?!?
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post #700 of Old 03-14-2014, 02:11 PM
cjjon7
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You probably need to adjust your clutch linkage. Try setting it a little deeper so that full deflection of the clutch pedal pushes it more than it currently is. It sounds to me like the transmission doesn't have the ability to slow down before you try shifting.
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post #701 of Old 03-14-2014, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjjon7
You probably need to adjust your clutch linkage. Try setting it a little deeper so that full deflection of the clutch pedal pushes it more than it currently is. It sounds to me like the transmission doesn't have the ability to slow down before you try shifting.
So add more slack into it?
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post #702 of Old 03-14-2014, 02:32 PM
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No, remove slack. There should be 1/8" or so of preload on the clutch fork when sitting (not stepping on the clutch). Basically you want the clutch to open further when you step on the pedal, but not so far that it slips when you release the pedal. It will take a little playing with but once you find the sweet spot, youll know.
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post #703 of Old 03-14-2014, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjjon7
No, remove slack. There should be 1/8" or so of preload on the clutch fork when sitting (not stepping on the clutch). Basically you want the clutch to open further when you step on the pedal, but not so far that it slips when you release the pedal. It will take a little playing with but once you find the sweet spot, youll know.
Ok, thanks. I'll report back
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post #704 of Old 03-14-2014, 02:40 PM
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Good luck! Everyone finishing their builds are really motivating me to hurry my *** up and finish mine!
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post #705 of Old 03-14-2014, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjjon7
Good luck! Everyone finishing their builds are really motivating me to hurry my *** up and finish mine!
Looks like I need a longer threaded rod to make more space between the zbar and the clutch fork. I adjusted this all the way out (I didn't know it was that far out) and the trans finally went into reverse (but still grinded) then stalled the engine. I tried to adjust it further but it dropped out ontop me, that's when I realized I went to far. Can I use a piece of all thread for this or is it some special part?
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