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Unread 02-27-2014, 05:30 AM   #676
motiv8ya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjjon7
Sounds like you alternator might not be putting out, had the same issue when i first ran mine, it was just firing off the battery and didnt want to start after running for a bit
I think the alternator is functioning properly. Volt gauge reads 12v with key forward and 14v when it was idling/running.

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Unread 02-27-2014, 11:52 AM   #677
Tigerjeep79
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Sounds like you're getting close! Murphy's law has been doggin' you at every turn lately. Maybe that starter you put in there wasn't so fresh? I wish you luck, it's going to be an awesome Jeep.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 02:07 PM   #678
motiv8ya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigerjeep79
Sounds like you're getting close! Murphy's law has been doggin' you at every turn lately. Maybe that starter you put in there wasn't so fresh? I wish you luck, it's going to be an awesome Jeep.
Thank you, I'm gonna turn the crank a little by hand and hope it starts the next time. Maybe I'll even get to complete the break in cycle properly. I'm thinking that's the problem, that I haven't given everything the ability to properly wear into each other.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 05:20 PM   #679
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IT'S ALIVE !!!!!! I cranked it by hand about 1/4 turn and the starter was able to do the rest. It fired right up! I did a 30 minute break in varying rpms from 1500 - 3000 for 5 minutes each. I kept my fan relays grounded to the battery so they were on throughout entire break in cycle. I also backed that up with a shop fan pushing air through the radiator (and fumes out of the garage). I have some squealing coming from the front only on increased throttle. Sounded like a squealing belt so I used some belt dressing and it went away for a minute. But it came back. I saw that my volt gauge went from 14v to start down to 12.5 so maybe my alternator is bad after all cjjon7. I'm hoping that is the cause if the sound and that its not the water pump/ps pump or HEI squealing under load.

I need to remove the brass 'T' I made to install both water temp sensors and my fan thermal switch in the same port. Neither sensor is getting the contact that they need in the coolant stream. I'll leave the water temp sensor for the TBI system in the right front port and worst case scenario I can just wire the fans to be controlled on/off with the dash switch if I can't relocate the thermal switch.

I will keep the direct wire setup from my battery distribution block to the TBI fuse block and utilize my extra dash switch as the on/off. That'll let me utilize the existing wire loom to hide the wire and not have to add anything extra.

Yokes and driveshafts are up next. Swapping the allen head bolt on my dizzy hold down to a hex head so I can properly tighten it down, fixing the wipers (linkage disconnected inside frame when I turned the motor on), cleaning up and securing the wiring harnesses, final safety checks and then the rest is cosmetic (fab a steering column cover, trans tunnel cover and either buy or build a rear bumper/tire carrier.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 05:41 PM   #680
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It took some humility on my part to think that my "brand new" 12si "delco" (shell) alternator from autozone could have been a bad apple, but brought it in for a test and it surely was toast...not very comforting knowing how easily they fry.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 06:02 PM   #681
motiv8ya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjjon7
It took some humility on my part to think that my "brand new" 12si "delco" (shell) alternator from autozone could have been a bad apple, but brought it in for a test and it surely was toast...not very comforting knowing how easily they fry.
Could be, it is a part I pulled from that CJ7 I found in the junkyard. I can just put the same O'reilly's 95amp alternator in it that I used on my other 7'.
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Unread 03-01-2014, 06:38 PM   #682
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Everything I'm reading says my plugs should be gapped at .050 with the HEI. I know I have them set at .045 so I'll be regapping them.

I took video of it running the other day but photobucket won't upload it from my phone and it won't load directly from my phone to the forum either.
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Unread 03-02-2014, 10:42 PM   #683
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Cleaned up the wiring and wired the constant 12v for the TBI to a dash switch. Regapped the plugs and picked up the new 95amp alternator today. Tomorrow it gets another oil & filter change and driveshafts installed.
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Unread 03-03-2014, 06:35 PM   #684
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Finished today's goals. Yoke swaps went well with the exception of the front dana300 output. Once I popped that one off it started pouring gear oil out. The new yoke had a large dust shield on it which had clearance issues so I removed it. Reinstalled easily but I'm not so sure it's 100% leak free. I need to remember to top off the gear oil, does the trans and transfercase share gear oil? I don't remember. Driveshafts dropped right in with no problems.

It fired right up after the oil/filter change and sounds really good. I need to dial in the timing and fix my coolant sensor / thermal switch system before I take it out on the road. I keep the fan relays grounded (keeping them on constantly) while I have it running in the garage because they don't kick in when they should. The brass T is the problem.

I have a quick video from today but still can't upload so here's some driveline shots and a picture of the part# tag from the Oreilly's 95amp alternator.
image-1791684716.jpg

image-438715500.jpg

image-3237730867.jpg

image-4169406583.jpg

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Unread 03-04-2014, 10:35 AM   #685
cjjon7
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They do not share gear oil, separate units. Im glad the alternator suggestion helped! Lookin good.
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Unread 03-04-2014, 12:31 PM   #686
motiv8ya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjjon7
They do not share gear oil, separate units. Im glad the alternator suggestion helped! Lookin good.
Thanks, Its amazing how much noise a bad alternator bearing puts out under load. Maybe I over filled the t-case, who knows.
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Unread 03-04-2014, 12:54 PM   #687
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Nah mine runs out all over the place too when the front yoke is off...i think the proper level nearly covers the front output yoke
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Unread 03-04-2014, 06:24 PM   #688
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I'm having a hard time finding a 1/8th 27 Temperature Switch for my fan relays. That is the size of the original coolant sender and I want to reuse that hole for a temp switch to eliminate the brass 'T' on the other side of the intake manifold. This will allow me to put the TBI 3/8th coolant sensor in the port on the passenger side so it will be directly in the coolant stream. The thermostat housing has a port on the back that I used on my other 401 (with an Edelbrock Performer intake) but the Airgap intake manifold has clearance issues between the switch and the intake runner.

I googled and also spent some 'quality time' at the parts store looking through books with no luck. I'm assuming the original sender can't be used to ground the relays like a thermal switch does, correct? I may try to put a 90* fitting on the back of the t-stat housing to see if it'll clear the runner with the 3/8th switch I already have.

I made a strap out of paracord and a carabiner to keep my rear passenger ebrake cable from making contact with the exhaust. The cable slides freely through the carabiner and it's quiet. It worked well.

I fixed the wiper linkage also. Thankfully I saved all of the spare little clips and parts. It's nice to walk over to a shelf in your garage and have what you need.
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Unread 03-05-2014, 05:19 PM   #689
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Gonna have to replace the seal on the front tcase output. I lost a lot more fluid overnight.
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Unread 03-05-2014, 05:32 PM   #690
cjjon7
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Ah bummer. The old seal has been trained for the groove in your old yoke ill bet...you replaced the yokes correct?
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