BUILD THREAD: Project "Ghetto Fabulous" - Page 44 - JeepForum.com

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post #646 of 800 Old 02-16-2014, 12:08 PM
twinstickd20
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I know it sounds dumb but have you made sure that all the fuses are still good?

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post #647 of 800 Old 02-16-2014, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinstickd20
I know it sounds dumb but have you made sure that all the fuses are still good?
Just triple checked them all, every fuse visually and continuity check operational. Did you have to add anything to the circuits to get the LEDs to function correctly?
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post #648 of 800 Old 02-16-2014, 01:23 PM
dan-cj7
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Mate, I would suggest that you start trouble shooting from the beginning of the power circuit. Start at the PDC and work your way to the fusebox. Then test each circuit separately to see where you have power and where you don't. If you have the key off you should only have power to certain circuits. Have a wiring diagram handy to identify every circuit as you go along. After you identify all the key off circuits you then move on to the key in accessory position circuits. Then on to the key in run position. Make sure that each circuit is complete to the ground. Your dodgy circuit will show up somewhere as you are working through. It might take a while to get through them but trust me you find out what is going on. I've just finished re-wiring a CJ7 from scratch with a YJ wiring harness using the 100 page wiring diagram for my stroker.

Good luck!

CJ7 under construction - frame up restoration 4.6l stroker, AX15, YJ suspension

1984 CJ7 - Under construction
4.6L stroker with MPI & AX15 with D300
OME 2.5" YJ springs
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/dans-downunder-84-cj7-build-1299387/
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post #649 of 800 Old 02-16-2014, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-cj7
Mate, I would suggest that you start trouble shooting from the beginning of the power circuit. Start at the PDC and work your way to the fusebox. Then test each circuit separately to see where you have power and where you don't. If you have the key off you should only have power to certain circuits. Have a wiring diagram handy to identify every circuit as you go along. After you identify all the key off circuits you then move on to the key in accessory position circuits. Then on to the key in run position. Make sure that each circuit is complete to the ground. Your dodgy circuit will show up somewhere as you are working through. It might take a while to get through them but trust me you find out what is going on. I've just finished re-wiring a CJ7 from scratch with a YJ wiring harness using the 100 page wiring diagram for my stroker.

Good luck!

CJ7 under construction - frame up restoration 4.6l stroker, AX15, YJ suspension
I guess I'll start from scratch. I just cut out the wires to my rear turn signals and backup lights (which never worked) and still had no change.
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post #650 of 800 Old 02-16-2014, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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With the battery connected and the key off I have 12.65v present at each wire in the turn signal plug on the steering column with the hazards activated except the purple which is listed as 'turn flasher'. Painless manual lists Brown #751 (Emergency Flasher Relay - EF Switch B+) and Purple #752 (Turn Signal Relay - TS Switch Flasher B+). With the hazards off I have 12.65v at Black #753 (Horn Relay - Horn Switch) and Brown #751 (Emergency Flasher Relay - EF Switch B+).

I followed this purple wire all the way back to the fuse block, pulled the fuse and checked for voltage and got nothing.

At the ignition switch I have 12.65v Red # 734 (Battery +) with key off.

With key forward I have 12.65v at Brown #732 (Ign accesories), Orange #733 (Ign Switched B+), Pink #731 (Ignition Coil) and Red # 734 (Battery +). Purple/White #719 (Ignition Start) should get power with key all the way forward but I don't want to bump it because I haven't fired/broken in the engine yet.

Key forward I have 12.65v to my wiper switch but no wipers also.
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post #651 of 800 Old 02-17-2014, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Incorrectly wired taillights?!? I crossed wires somehow because I was paying attention to color code, unfortunately ground is white and not green or black on the LED taillights. I guess its a good thing that I cut all of the lights out in the the rear because it helped me chase the power through the wires.

I wound up having to rewire the headlight switch according to this diagram (splicing #727 & 729 together on the same terminal how I originally had it) to get my headlights, front turn signals and taillights all on when the switch is in the headlight position. I need to check the amber lights in my front wheel wells to ensure those aren't wired backwards too because they are the only ones not working now.

Next step is fixing the no wipers and no heater motor operation issue and replacing an under dash LED that I broke a terminal off of.

I hate wiring!!!
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post #652 of 800 Old 02-19-2014, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Down to the wiper and heater checks on the electrical side. I'm thinking of installing the 4" flush mount front signals like Twinstickd20 has on his 7' to eliminate the regular bulbs from the circuit completely ( then they'll actually flash ).

Other than that it's break in the engine and install the driveshafts.
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post #653 of 800 Old 02-20-2014, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Wiper switch is done. Here's the correct list of connections for a 4 wire motor to a seven pin wiper switch with the painless harness (utilizing a reposted picture from another thread).

1 - Black from wiper motor
2 - Green from wiper motor
3 - Blue from wiper motor
4 - Red from wiper motor
5 - Jump to 7 for Battery +
6 - out to washer pump
7 - Painless Blue #705 Battery +

Pretty sure my non working heater is due to not installing the wire on the motor where it sticks through the firewall. I remember that I tucked the Heater wire in the loom with intentions of remembering to hook it up at a later date. Tomorrow I'll pull it out and connect it. Yokes will be here on the 24th.

Hoping to break in the engine either tomorrow or Saturday.
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post #654 of 800 Old 02-21-2014, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Heater works, not that I really need it in Vegas but it works none the less. Time to go down the break in checklist.
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post #655 of 800 Old 02-22-2014, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Oil pressure during priming = 60psi

Battery = new and fully charged

Confirmed TDC on #1 compression stroke

Timing light staged and ready to use.

All connections double checked, no leaks.

Turn key forward and fuel pump primes, confirmed fuel to the tbi unit by removing line and reinstalling.

Turn key to start = no start!?!

Starter engages and turns engine but then stops.

Where do I start? Check for power at the dizzy?
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post #656 of 800 Old 02-22-2014, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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I used the painless electric choke red wire # 754 for my power wire to the HEI and its getting over 12v confirmed with meter with the key on accessories but not when starting. Purple/white #723 goes to the HEI - terminal along with a white wire for the TBI.

I need to find a constant b+ 12v wire with the key forward in both positions.
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post #657 of 800 Old 02-22-2014, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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I spliced into pink #720 (coil +) which painless recommends using to power the TBI ECM. Now i have spark at the HEI confirmed with a timing light. Still doesn't fire up. Starter turns initially then slows.
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post #658 of 800 Old 02-22-2014, 05:55 PM
twinstickd20
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Is the battery's state of health good? A battery can be fully charged but still be bad. Other than that not sure maybe somebody else will chime in with more help.
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post #659 of 800 Old 02-22-2014, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinstickd20
Is the battery's state of health good? A battery can be fully charged but still be bad. Other than that not sure maybe somebody else will chime in with more help.
Brand new battery. I have fuel to the TBI but nothing is spraying. I have spark to the HEI.
I checked fuses at the TBI harness and all three 5 amp fuses are good.

I think I have this TBI fuse block wired in wrong.
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post #660 of 800 Old 02-22-2014, 08:32 PM
twinstickd20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motiv8ya
Brand new battery. I have fuel to the TBI but nothing is spraying. I have spark to the HEI. I checked fuses at the TBI harness and all three 5 amp fuses are good. I think I have this TBI fuse block wired in wrong.
Okay are the injectors getting power and pulsing? Trying to think through my 92 chevy truck with tbi.
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