BUILD THREAD: Project "Ghetto Fabulous" - Page 39 - JeepForum.com
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post #571 of 800 Old 08-23-2013, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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I unbolted the trans mount and raised it up to try and get better angles for the driveshafts. This is the area that confuses me, I know the rear axle pinion should be 2 - 3* less than the transfer case rear output to account for the rise under load. The rear axle pinion is pointing up at 15*. Not sure where to set the transfer case rear output. The difference in height between the two yokes is 10.5" and distance is 27". Is the total number of the three angles supposed to add to 180*?

On my other Jeep I had to run a rear CV Shaft and raise my transfer case rear output to near 90*. It still has some minor vibrations at highway speeds and took some shims to adjust the rear axle pinion properly. Trying to avoid all the adjustments.

If I go with a rear CV shaft on this build and put the transfer case rear output at 90* I would have to raise it a full 2". So I tried it and set a piece of 2x2 as a spacer and it leveled out the engine perfectly. It also added an inch to the rear shaft length (28") and corrected the transfer case front output angle downward (was pointing up towards radiator). I gained a ton of clearance. It looks 'right' this way. Anybody got some skills in this area that can help me out?

If this is how it should be run then I built that crossmember for nothing, there is a ton of space between the transfer case and the crossmember now. I guess I'll search CL for a stock one.

I ordered larger injectors for the TBI and have to call Howell on Tuesday to order a new cal-prom.

Only thing left to wire in is the back up light switch and back up lights, which reminds me...I need a backup light switch, some backup lights and a rear bumper / carrier to mount them on.

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post #572 of 800 Old 08-24-2013, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Raising the trans corrected the 1 - 2" travel loss in my clutch pedal but I had to drill two new holes in the firewall mounted z-bar bracket to get it level again. I plan on leaving the trans at this height and seeing if my old crossmember will work now that everything seems to be falling into place. I'm off for another week and the kids go back to school on monday so I should get plenty of Jeep time.
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post #573 of 800 Old 08-25-2013, 10:32 AM
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That sounds about right, you want your transfer case yoke parallel with the floor when using a CV driveshaft, or close to it. I had to do the same thing with my trans mount beneath the TF727... still need to order the driveshaft, and yeah im running the stock skidplate as well.
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post #574 of 800 Old 08-25-2013, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Good info, thanks. I found a trans crossmember for the dana300 on CL incase my stock one doesn't work.
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post #575 of 800 Old 08-25-2013, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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I bolted up the stock 76-79' crossmember and believe it or not 4 of the bolt holes lined up and it went in smoothly without any interference with the bottom of the dana 300. I will need the crossmember from the dana 300 set up though because the transmission mounts are at different positions and these don't line up. The one I found is from an 80' CJ7 with a 6cyl and auto/dana 300. Hope it works.
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post #576 of 800 Old 08-25-2013, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled the sway bar off until I figure out what to do to solve the clearance issues with the brake lines on the upwards travel. Shocks are ordered.
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post #577 of 800 Old 08-26-2013, 10:24 AM
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What shocks you go with??
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post #578 of 800 Old 08-26-2013, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
motiv8ya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjjon7
What shocks you go with??
Doestch DT3000
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post #579 of 800 Old 08-26-2013, 11:25 AM
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Nice I've heard good things and they don't break the bank!
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post #580 of 800 Old 08-26-2013, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Did my good deed for the day, I pulled a hyundai out of a ditch with the 79'.

I went to have one of the Flowmasters installed on the 79' but it was a no-go. I bought (2) 2.5" Flowmasters and the 79' has 2.25 exhaust tubing. Maybe I'll just do dual exhaust on the project now that I have the extra muffler. That will eliminate the cost of having a Y-pipe made and make it easier to work on stuff without having to remove exhaust pipes to get to stuff.

I should have my crossmember tomorrow so that means more stripping and painting. I'm anxious to get this thing done already.
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post #581 of 800 Old 08-26-2013, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motiv8ya View Post
I'm anxious to get this thing done already.
UGH youre telling me! I tallied up everything I have left to do the other day and the total scared me... Its at the point where fabrication is out of the picture without buying expensive tools, so buying or paying to have made is the only option.

How have you liked the metalcloak fenders thus far, liners fit nice? Clean and easy install? (should be for 500$!)

Cant wait to finally drive my CJ again someday
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post #582 of 800 Old 08-26-2013, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjjon7

UGH youre telling me! I tallied up everything I have left to do the other day and the total scared me... Its at the point where fabrication is out of the picture without buying expensive tools, so buying or paying to have made is the only option.

How have you liked the metalcloak fenders thus far, liners fit nice? Clean and easy install? (should be for 500$!)

Cant wait to finally drive my CJ again someday
The Metalcloaks are well worth the money spent. Heavy duty construction, perfect fit, beautiful 'new' aluminum inners and all the required hardware.
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post #583 of 800 Old 08-26-2013, 07:09 PM
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Bill (Lucdog) tells me he doesn't run a sway bar on his CJ and has never felt he needed it. Maybe just take it off?
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post #584 of 800 Old 08-26-2013, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611
Bill (Lucdog) tells me he doesn't run a sway bar on his CJ and has never felt he needed it. Maybe just take it off?
I pulled it off but the springs are so soft that unless these new shocks compensate for them I will have to shorten the link bars or just relocate/rotate the brake lines above the axle before I reinstall the swaybar. The lift springs on my 79' are so stiff that I don't run the sway bar on it and it can't even tell the difference.
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post #585 of 800 Old 08-27-2013, 07:23 AM
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I could see that happening. If you're going to shorten them maybe it'd be a good time to make them quick detachable too.
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