Here's what I was talking about reference using a switch in the water neck on the 401. I found this switch http://www.ebay.com/itm/185-Degree-F...#ht_2472wt_956 and thought I could use it here on the water neck to control my fan relays on/off with 12v power from a dash switch.
Simple but will it work? The plug in the back of the water neck is 1/2 inch.
That will work fine if you are running a lower temperature thermostat. Mine is a 190* so the fan would run all the time with my set up.
Just take the ground side switch of the relays and run one to the thermal switch and the other to your switch on the dash. That way when either switch grounds the wire the fans will come on. Also be careful with pipe thread sealer as the switch's body does need to have a good ground.
Mike My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Here's the test piece that I sprayed a light coat of each multicolored textured rustoleum paint on. Since 12/20 this thing has been outside and has been sprayed with water daily.... No rust !!! The bare metal piece I had next to it is covered in rust. I really like this paint! I think it'll hold up well in the dry desert environment.
Replaced the chrome valve covers with some cast finned aluminum ones today because the right side valve cover was leaking. Here's why
I've done valve covers with rubber gaskets, cork gaskets, rtv, the 'right stuff' and every combination in between, always wound up with a leak. So I decided to install the aluminum valve covers dry with rubber felpro gaskets. We'll see how it goes. The valve covers came with hardware, 10mm hex bolts. Guess I know where these were made. I'll report any leaks.
I need to spend the rest of the day cleaning out the garage (bins of xmas crap) so I can get my workspace back.
I moved a ton of stuff out of the garage and now have my workspace back. I'm happy to report that my new valve cover install is leak free. Dry rubber felpro gaskets and cast aluminum valve covers is the way to go.
I got back to work stripping the grill today. My wire wheel disintegrated in my face and luckily I was wearing my safety glasses, this one could've sucked an inch or two lower.
Then my angle grinder burnt up so I went at it with some sandpaper and elbow grease. I have a couple more hard to reach areas on the back to clean up then I'm gonna get some primer and paint to spray it the tan color and see how it looks.
I guess I need to invest in a quality angle grinder because these harbor freight ones aren't gonna cut it anymore, especially when I start on the tub.
I started stripping the tub today. It's gonna take a while to get it done. I figure i can do the majority of it with the wire wheel and use my spot blaster for the tight spots on the bottom of the tub. I realized that I probably don't need to take it down to bare metal but unfortunately I already did in a few spots.
I spent about 3 hours stripping the tub today and I got the entire left side down to bare metal. I had two shop vacs running on either end of the tub to try and cut down on the dust but I still made a huge mess. I need to go buy some more discs and wire wheels. It's getting there...
I got some 'gator' strip discs from lowes. They were about $10 a piece and lasted about 10 minutes each. They work extremely well but they don't last long. I need to check online and see if i can get a case cheaper.