Patched the hole under the jeep logo... Man, welding body panels is alot different than the heavier gauge metalwork. I got it welded up but i'm not satisfied with it. I burnt more holes through initially than I actually welded and the patch doesn't look great to me. I may cut it all out and make another... or I can just leave it as is because it will be covered up anyway with rocker guards. Took a few pics of the rear corner but I haven't figured out how to upload directly from my iPhone yet.
Coiz, I'm far from cutting and welding on this but these are the rough ideas of what I was thinking. These pieces are 27 inches long and will most likely be shortened with rounded corners and angles on top and bottom to follow the lines of the hood:
I like #1 better.
I welded the two cracks in the floor and noticed that the floor metal is thicker than the side panels (because I didn't burn through it this time) Here are some shots of the drivers rear corner after the hammer and dolly work, nothing major but it's my first time with body work:
The pistons got delivered today and the rest of the engine kit should be here this week. Gotta get the pistons installed on the rods and also look for a clutch kit...after that I need to stop spending money for a while so I'll spend that time building the rockers and other project parts that I have materials for.
Engine kit arrived and the pistons are getting pressed on today. After going over my block I discovered that the rear main groove for the rear main seal has a corner knocked off. I'm kinda pissed off because I just paid over $900 to get this block hot tanked, inspected and machined. You think that the machine shop would've noticed it when he "inspected" it before telling me I needed all that machine work. I hope there are no other smaller cracks anywhere that went unnoticed. I also hope it doesn't cause any problems with the rear main seal. It definately didn't happen after I picked it up because the surface of the metal is rusty from the hot tank, it would be clean metal it I did something to cause it but it's been sitting on the stand since I brought it back, I gotta talk with the guy tomorrow.
My neighbor made a huge donation to this build in the form of alot of valuable automotive parts from his former projects that he no longer owns. He gave me a set of 37 x 13.5 r20 Nitto Mud grapplers, a set of 1996 Dodge Viper stock wheels and tires, a set of 2.5 inch hubcentric wheel spacers for an H2 Hummer, a set of 17 x 7.5 eddie bauer ford aluminum wheels, a set of f350 stock steel wheels, a near new fullsize ladder / work rack for a fullsize truck, four 8 inch procomp offroad lights and an 800 watt amp. He told me to sell it all for jeep part $$$...I already sold the Nittos and the wheel spacers. I didn't feel right about taking his money so left it in his toolbox but I found it in my toolbox later on the same day. This greatly helps in the project fund if I can sell off the rest of it along with some of my other jeep stuff laying around.
Here's a pic of the break in the block let me know what you guys think:
This block is cursed!!!! I went to pick up my pistons and rods today and it turns out that the rods are for full floating pistons and the pistons that came in the kit are press fit.....So it's gonna be another $100 to bush up the small rod ends and press them on. I showed the block to the machinist and he said that it won't cause a problem as long as I offset the rear main rope seal to that side (something I would do on AMC's anyway). I'm looking at an Edelbrock airgap intake manifold for this engine, I've always run the performer series intake so I figured I'd change it up a bit. Has anyone run an airgap manifold on an AMC before that can give me any info on pros and cons.
Did you have your block sonic tested and all that?
I paid for the block to be hot tanked and inspected for cracks and clearances. I don't believe it was sonic tested for cracks. The 401 is turning out to be a very big and costly speed bump in my build.
I posted the picture of the break in the rear main on TheAMCForum.com and those guys say it won't pose a problem so I started cleaning and assembling the engine. I got the freeze plugs and crank in so far but couldn't go any further because my rods and pistons still aren't back from the shop. I changed gears and started working on the oil pump and timing cover. Seems like I've been spending more time cleaning up the old hardware than doing anything else. I'll be looking for an Edelbrock Air Gap Manifold and a clutch kit now that I have some cash from the sale of some of the donated parts.
I picked up the pistons and got them loaded in the block. It went rather smoothly with the exception of one upper rod bearing dropping out as I was tapping it's piston in, no big deal it just set me back about 15 minutes.
I sold two of the 4 donated Pro Comp lights and made enough to cover the purchase of the air gap intake. So I need to order the air gap, the Head bolts, water pump and some valve covers in order to seal this engine up. It's the little details that you don't think about that add up quickly like the oil fill tube, dip stick and other miscellaneous small parts that I will eventually need. I do have the 304 sitting over there that I could pull from but I know it's bad to reuse head bolts. I will use the rocker arms off of it though.
Has anyone run an Airgap on a CJ7 with an AMC V8? I'm wondering what the underhood clearance is going to be.
Anyway....the engine is 8 pistons closer to being set in the frame rails. Here's two iPhone pics, one of these days I'll remember to bring the real camera out here with me for some better shots. I'll try to get the cam, timing and other smaller parts in today. The 401 is going to wind up costing around $2200 when done, I'm thinking I could have finished this entire build around that figure if I used the 304 I already had..oh well...but then I wouldn't have a 401!
I got a few minutes before work so I got the cam and timing installed. I forgot to buy two new keys for the camshaft where the cam sprocket and fuel pump eccentric install so I pulled one off the 304 and found another in my hardware rack. Turns out I had a whole drawer labelled and full of keys and cotter pins. It's the little parts that I never think about that could really halt the progress, it's a good thing I had them. The cam went in rather easily, sliding it into the last bearing is the most difficult due to lack of leverage. They should make a AMC 304-401 cam install tool like they have for the chevy's and stuff. Just a handle or a long threaded rod that screws in to give you the leverage you need to slide it in without banging the cam lobes all over the bearings. I'm sure there is a tool/dye maker on the forum that is reading this....I bought a cheap made AMC V8 oil priming tool off ebay for $19.99 a few years back which is nothing more than a piece of round stock with a slotted fitting welded on the end. I'm sure other AMC'ers/Jeepers would buy a cam install tool for the same price (I would if I don't make one for myself).
I made sure that I had 20 pins in the timing chain between the marks on the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket to ensure proper timing as per the manual.
I resized the photos this time.....
I'm shopping around for the air gap manifold, balancer, head bolts and clutch kit. Right now I could get it all from Summit for their low prices however that is all offset by the taxes and handling charges because they have a warehouse in my state. Jegs doesn't have eveything I need, I'll see where else I can find it all.....
It's been a while but the ARP Head bolts came yesterday. My wife is out of town with my two oldest kids so I've been in the garage working on the Jeep while the baby sleeps. I got the heads on but ran into a question with the head gaskets. I couldn't remember if the Felpro head gaskets require sealant on both sides or just on the metal side. Then I read the instructions...duh! So I got the heads bolted on and torqued them to 110 ft/lbs in three different passes (50,80,110) using the torque sequence from the manual. Then the lifters, pushrods and rocker arms were installed. I moved onto the timing cover and after torquing it down I looked on my bench and saw the oil slinger sitting there laughing at me, I love doing things twice. The FlowKooler water pump went on without any impeller interference issues that most people report. This is the fourth FlowKooler pump I've installed on four different AMC V8's and what I've learned is that if you use the two supplied gaskets and install the bolts to the proper torque (4-5 ft/lbs per the manual) then the impeller does not have any contact issues. After that I installed the oil pickup and then had to stop because I realized that I need to clean up the old oil pan hardware before I reinstall it. So I'm done for today.
Tomorrow I'll install the airgap manifold and oil pan. I need to find my old set of valve covers (I think I have a set of chrome Milodons around here somewhere) for this thing, either that or I gotta dump a $150 on a set of cast aluminum ones off ebay. My crank pilot bushing for the T176 was delivered today but the balancer is still a no show. Here's some iPhone pics:
I was going to repaint the heads orange to match the block but the shop put a nice black paint job on them and I didn't want to ruin it. The brackets and pulleys are black too so it'll all match. I will need to tape off the black and put another coat of orange on the front of the block when it's all sealed up. I over taped it when I initially painted it and there are some bare metal spots on the front around the timing cover. I can't wait to drop this engine in the frame rails and get the rest of the drivetrain bolted in behind it.
There's quite a few CL deals right now (NEW in Box MSD, 35 BFG's, seats, and shocks) but money is getting tight, maybe I can unload some more of my unused parts on CL.
Baby is asleep so I went to finish up. I painted the bare spots on the block, installed the dipstick tube, oil pan, spark plugs and Air Gap Manifold. I know alot of guys have problems with the dipstick tube install and here's what works for me. I file the bumps of the tube down to just slightly bigger that the O.D. of the tube. Then I put a thin layer of "right stuff" around that spot on the tube and insert it in the block. Then I slip the closed end of a 3/8 wrench over the tube and hammer it in (hitting the wrench). Never had one leak or break that way.
The Air Gap was a little difficult. Some of the bolt holes in the casting were just a hair off causing some of the bolts to misalign with the holes in the heads. It took me a while and I resisted the urge to beat on it, but I got it on without breaking anything. I taped up any open ports to keep stuff out. I only have one Milodon chrome valve cover but I found a set of cheap chrome valve covers on my shelf. I painted them black a while ago so I'll blast them again and paint them orange.