Build Thread - 1982 CJ7 to M998CJ7 - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 102 Old 07-15-2016, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
tsanchez23
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Build Thread - 1982 CJ7 to M998CJ7

Deleted the old thread because I screwed up the title. Give an old man a break...

So a few months ago I bought this 1982 CJ7. I’ve never owned a real Jeep. I had a 2007 Commander for nine years – wrecking it is what got me here. I have owned and rebuilt two other vehicles – a VW Beetle and a Suzuki Samurai. I have always wanted a real Jeep and now I have one – the only catch is that she’s my daily driver so any project I start has to either be done in a weekend or that night if it's a weekday…

I bought her from a guy in GA who said he bought her from another guy and just did enough to get her ready to sell. I believe that. Wholeheartedly. The entire engine was black with gunk. The carb was dark brown. The paint job was terrible and you could see where he’d put a new aftermarket windshield along with some weird carpet and armor corners on her to hide damage from a collision. But when I drove her around the first time I knew I was going to own my first real Jeep. Not sure why, I just knew. We haggled and agreed on a price and away I went.

I named her “Gertrude” right out of the gate because she was a crusty old battle axe and I was sure she was going to give me trouble until I gained her respect. And she did.

In the past three months I’ve replaced:

All four tires
Soft top and doors – she had a hard top and steel doors and yes, I still have them but the window regulators in both doors are rusted out. Top is in good condition.
Carburetor – Went from the Carter to a Solex 32/36 to a Weber 38 DGES
Exhaust system from the manifold to the tailpipe – I did a write-up for that
Fuel pump
Distributor – including Team Rush upgrade
Coil
Alternator
Radiator
Thermostat and housing

In reality, I should have took a bunch of pictures and started a build thread when I bought her, but I didn’t for a variety of reasons; mainly, trust…LOL I’ve spent the last few months getting her running well enough to trust the fact that she wasn’t going to blow up on me and leave me short a wad of cash plus several other wads I paid for parts, LOL. Now I feel comfortable enough to start really building something.

My plan is to make her into a military-style Jeep. The current mil-spec designation for generic unmodified and unarmed “troop transport” is M998 – AKA the HMMWV. I’m going to call Gertrude the M998CJ7

Pics:



The driver's side - the damage from the accident is under the armor on this rear corner. This weekend I will post a pic of what the fender sheet metal (inside the tub) looks like under the carpet.



Damage to the tailgate and tub. I'm going to fix this by replacing the tailgate and pulling/hammering out the tub. Going to replace the cross member when I have the rusty parts of the frame cleaned up and repaired.



The whole backside. No, that spare won't do... I have another stock wheel I bought from a user here, but I haven't gotten a tire installed on it yet.



Dashboard. It had a dash pad, but I pulled it to get to the wiper motor and now I'm going to leave it off. The new dash I'm designing won't work with the pad in there.



Engine. Note the heater core is disconnected and bypassed. It started leaking after I replaced the radiator. I figured that would happen. I replaced the crankcase vent intake yesterday and ran the hose back to the air filter. I've temporarily installed the fuel pressure regulator on the fender there - it won't live there permanently.

Lots of work to be done.

And just so everyone knows up front: I'm not a purist. I don't believe AMC did everything right when they built these and - being as how this one was wrecked pretty good - I'm not too bent up on keeping everything the way it rolled off the assembly line. If I need to cut a hole somewhere to install something I want, or make something work better, I will. That's just me.


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post #2 of 102 Old 07-18-2016, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Replaced the valve cover gasket Friday, but didn't get to do a lot of other work this weekend because replacing the brake master cylinder took WAY longer than I thought it should have.

Figured out that there is far more rust under there than I thought. The front caliper bleeder screws were a no-go and the rear cylinder bleeders would turn, but wouldn't pass fluid so I had to replace them.

How in the hell are you supposed to reach that brake light switch to adjust it? I guess you could take the dash off, but that seems awful extreme just to adjust a plastic switch... In the end, I had to reach up there with needle-nosed pliers and turn it.

Now I need to get underneath and check the main lines into the calipers/bleeders to make sure they're not rusted shut. Otherwise, I will have to back out as far as necessary and I don't really want to replace the whole brake line system.

Looking at the front end itself, I think I may just replace everything from the ball studs out. So much rust... Rears don't look as bad.

Wipers aren't working right - only one speed and they won't park. Going to try to tackle that tonight or tomorrow night. Plus my right headlight bucket is wasted. And at $85 each, I'm going to try to rebuild it first. May try to pull the heater box as rebuilding it is supposed to be this weekend's big project.
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post #3 of 102 Old 07-25-2016, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Re-torqued the valve cover bolts (aluminum valve cover) three times this week. Third time appears to be the charm as they are no longer moving and the gasket is no longer leaking. Wish I could say the same about the oil pan...

Didn't get to much this weekend - cleaned the garage and installed new lights. Hoping to get a work bench and then a nice rolling tool box in there. All of that is taking priority because the Jeep is running really well and I don't want to jinx it.

One thing I want to do this week is reduce the amount of wiring in the engine compartment. I've been looking around and I'm 99% sure there's about ten pounds of wiring in there that I don't need.

I used a print of the wiring diagram to make this list of wiring that I think I need, but I'd like someone to verify it:

White, Gray, Gray/TR, Green, Green/TR - Headlights, Signals, Running Lights
Yellow - Wiper switch to washer motor
Red/TR - Horn
Black/TR, Red - Alternator, Choke
Purple - Water Temp Sensor
Red/TR - Spliced to Coil, Electric Ignition
Blue - Electric Ignition to Distributor
Green - Electric Ignition to Coil
Red - Alternator, Solenoid, Battery

The following, plus any others that may be laying around in there, are not needed:

Orange, Yellow - Kickdown/QuadraTrac
Brown - AC
Light Blue - Neutral safety switch

Once I have all that sorted out, I can add the grounding cables as JeepHammer discussed.

Anyone care to verify that list?
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post #4 of 102 Old 07-28-2016, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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So I got this off e-Bay



It's a NOS (from 1991) engine compartment wiring harness for an M35.

Originally, I was going to cut it up for the wiring, connectors, and parts - but I'm going to lay it out and use a wiring diagram I found to see what might fit where right out of the gate. Maybe I can make it work without having to cut it completely to pieces.

I already spotted some stuff that would not make the Jeephammer "list of things done right" like the ground cables lacking heat shrink - but other than that, it seems pretty high quality for $20.
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post #5 of 102 Old 08-01-2016, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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So a few things happened this weekend...

I got the wiring harness from eBay. It's definitely for an M35 style truck. I mapped out and re-tagged all circuits based on the tag numbers. What I mean is that I used white electrical tape and actually wrote the name of the circuit on the wire at each end. What I figured out was that this is only the front wiring harness - engine compartment only. And no fuses. There are two or three connectors that are supposed to (I think) connect to the firewall and from there, they'd go through a fuse box although I'm not 100% sure of that.

What I do know is that it is all lower-gauge wire seemingly far sturdier and much better made than the stock Jeep wire.

What I'm going to do is order another one of the harnesses, and take both apart and make one that works for the whole car, then re-wrap it and cover it with the armor that comes on it - going to have to source that separately however.

It's hard to explain what I mean, but once I get going, I will post pics and illustrate.

And this happened:





That second pic sucks.

If you can't tell what that is, it's stainless steel 5/16 tubing that I bent up to imitate as much as possible the stock fuel line. Mistakes were made and undone and that left some weird bend and tweaks on the line, but as a test, it worked flawlessly.

And after speaking with Tom at Weber I decided to eliminate the fuel pressure regulator because - to paraphrase him - you don't need it if you have the stock filter with the return line.

I tried to get the filter the correct height and add the loop before the carb to hold fuel and prevent it draining back. Already saw improvement here as when I woke up and cranked it before work, it started right up and ran steady instead of dying and requiring a re-start by turning the ignition until the fuel pump caught up.
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post #6 of 102 Old 08-01-2016, 11:58 AM
Ken4444
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I'm not seeing the photos. Is anyone else seeing them?

EDIT: The pics in posts #4 and #5 are showing up now, but not the others.

"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
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post #7 of 102 Old 08-01-2016, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Weird...

I can see them.
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post #8 of 102 Old 08-01-2016, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken4444 View Post
I'm not seeing the photos. Is anyone else seeing them?...
Some, but not all

Hoss

"Gimme three gallons of low lead; two hot dogs and a strawberry soda..."JGW
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post #9 of 102 Old 08-02-2016, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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The Google Photos album wasn't shared - only some of the pics. I guess I could see them because I was logged into Google in this browser...?

I shared the album - let me know if you can see the pics now.
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post #10 of 102 Old 08-02-2016, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone interested in the wiring harness here is the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272277436849

It's a hell of a deal at $35 including shipping. I've seen the same harness go for much more at surplus shops. You get lots of brand new heavy gauge wire and some good connectors although they're all female so you'll need to get the male connectors if you want the full benefit of military-grade wiring. And each one contains at least five feet of good heavy welding-type cable for those Jeephammer grounds.

I bought two of them from the guy and may buy another next paycheck just to have it laying around.
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post #11 of 102 Old 08-02-2016, 09:34 AM
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I still cannot see any in the first post?

Hoss

"Gimme three gallons of low lead; two hot dogs and a strawberry soda..."JGW
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post #12 of 102 Old 08-02-2016, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah - it looks like I'm going to have to go through and edit the whole first post and replace all the pics. Not sure why, but I will do it after lunch.
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post #13 of 102 Old 08-02-2016, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Okay I think I fixed the issue with the pics.

Let me know if you can see all of them in the first post now.
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post #14 of 102 Old 08-02-2016, 02:22 PM
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All but the last two in the first post?

And what was up with that spare???? Guess the PO only figured he'd ever get a flat on the rear?

Hoss

"Gimme three gallons of low lead; two hot dogs and a strawberry soda..."JGW
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post #15 of 102 Old 08-03-2016, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
tsanchez23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoonHoss View Post
All but the last two in the first post?

And what was up with that spare???? Guess the PO only figured he'd ever get a flat on the rear?

Hoss
Will try to fix those in a bit - not sure why they're not working...

Yeah - I'm hoping I don't get a flat at all until I have the chance to mount a new spare on the CJ rim I bought...
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