broken rear spring hanger bolts cj5. got the broken bolts out now what? -
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post #1 of 7 Old 11-12-2004, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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broken rear spring hanger bolts cj5. got the broken bolts out now what?

while removing the rear spring hangers (frame mounted) i broke 3 of the 4 bolts getting them off, the bolts are 7/16. i drilled and got the old bolts out (not an easy task). i ran a tap down the threads to clean them out, the threads appear to be damaged in a few ways, can i drill out the old threads and tap then out to run a 1/2 bolt? i realize that i will have to redrill the spring hanger not an issue. is there enough beef inside the old frame insert to drill out to 1/2" or should i try something metric?


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post #2 of 7 Old 11-12-2004, 11:11 AM
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Burn the hangers on the frame unless you plan to remove them later on.

'79 CJ5
4" lift, 4 corner DT3000's, 33x12.5R15 TSL on black steel 15x8's (2"b.s.), full cage, C.C. 4X4 3/16x2x4 rear frame, C.C. 4X4 S.R.S, stretched wheel base, C.C. 4X4 front and rear bash bumpers, work in progress.
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post #3 of 7 Old 11-12-2004, 12:10 PM
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1980 CJ7 
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Yes, drill and tape them out to 1/2". I had one broken bolt on my front end. I drilled and taped them all. While your at it see about getting some heavy duty spring pearches.
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-12-2004, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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i have heavy duty hangers, i would rather not just weld them to the frame. i am going to try a 1/2" tap i was just hoping that someone would tell me that there is enough sidewall in the insert to over size it.

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post #5 of 7 Old 11-12-2004, 03:44 PM
Web Wheeler
1980 CJ7 
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Yes Bryan, go for it! Plenty of meat in there.
If you're not sure take your front bumper off, the nuts are right there on the frame rails. Run a 1/2" longer bolt and double nut them.
Or chisel the or nuts out drill the holes for 1/2" bolts and install new locker washers and nuts.
Piece of cake!
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post #6 of 7 Old 11-12-2004, 06:36 PM
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Wink Fixing spring hanger

If you have access to a welder, and can get at where the bolt comes through on the inside of the frame, you could weld a new nut on top of the old one, to make new threads, this would probably fix any worries you may have on the durability of going to a 1/2 inch bolt. If you go that route, make sure you go with at least a grade 8 nut.
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post #7 of 7 Old 11-12-2004, 06:55 PM
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Just weld new HD hangers on.

I'd quit wasting time with the bolt setup. It's going to rust and corrode those bolts in there again, causing future issues your are dealing with now. I would just get some HD hangers from an outfilt like MORE and have them welded on. Easier, stronger, and good welds look cool. You can usually find new hangers for about 40-50 bucks a pair. And you won't be breaking bolts anymore, or worse yet, having them work loose and shear off from a wobbling hanger.

There is one downside about this method I can see having done something similar recently. Because you will no longer be able to drop the hanger with your leaf spring. You have to drop the tank to get the shackle bolts out since the head of the bolts are usually facing the tank. Because installing them the other way around usually causes interference with the end of the bolt and nut protruding towards the tank more than the bolt head itself. Maybe hard to follow this verbage, but take a look at your jeep and it should make sense.

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