If you haven't already, you need to break the cam in. Assuming the oil pump has been primed, fire her up, get the timing close and hold her at about 2200 RPM's for about 30 minutes (assuming there are no leaks and good oil pressure - also watch the temp). Shut her down and change the oil. Next 500 hundred miles, drive around town no more than 3000 RPM's (2500 would be better) and vary the RPM's alot, really go through the gears. Change the oil again. I wouldn't put any heavy load on for another 500 miles but you can increase the RPM's closer to normal driving. You need to watch the oil level, it might use some while the rings are seating. If after 1000 miles it's still using oil, the rings have not seated. Drive her a bit harder, red line the engine once in a while and they should seat. This is just my opinion and you will get different answers from different people.
A note on priming the oil pump. Be sure to pull the dist. run that thing up till you get oil out the top end. Use a drill to do this. It is best to connect a mechanical oil gauge. You can watch your oil pressure while your doing thes to insure there isn't any problems.
Ive never broken an engine in but Ive always been told to take a piece of cardboard and put it in front of the radiator and drive the he!! out of it to get the seals to seat. I dont know if it true or not but its what ive been told.
Ive never broken an engine in but Ive always been told to take a piece of cardboard and put it in front of the radiator and drive the he!! out of it to get the seals to seat. I dont know if it true or not but its what ive been told.
Never heard of that. You shouldn't have to do anything to seat the seals. In case you meant rings, then gosupes procedure should work. No, don't block of airflow to the radiator either.
Ive never broken an engine in but Ive always been told to take a piece of cardboard and put it in front of the radiator and drive the he!! out of it to get the seals to seat. I dont know if it true or not but its what ive been told.
so far good info, i have already primed the engine using the drill method, and oil pressure is at 60 psi on the guage and spruting out of all push rods. Just need to do the rest.... keep it coming
Gosupes' break-in routine, posted above, will serve you well.
You may want to re-torque the head after a short while, although I had a Ford engine done a few years ago and my builder said that wasn't necessary anymore, due to better gasket materials. Ask your engine builder.
Only on the way to Canada, eh? Actually last time I was that far up was for the Oyster Run motorcycle rally in Anacortes. Get that beast running and I just might.
its all bull-=-=-=-= !! drive it like your going to drive it. does nascar break in parts does NHRA break in parts does the airforce ,army or other extreme machine using people break them in? nah if it going to break pick a different brand. hell even new cars unlike cars from 20 years ago don't even sugest a break in. new metals, new techquinics, closer machine tolerences
change the oil early and often in the first 5-10 k then drive it like you stole it
hell even new cars unlike cars from 20 years ago don't even sugest a break in. new metals, new techquinics, closer machine tolerences
change the oil early and often in the first 5-10 k then drive it like you stole it
Does NASCAR even try to get 150,000 miles from an engine?
As for the NHRA Big-Time, they don't bother because they rebuild every engine after every run.
When I pay the money to have an engine rebuilt, I expect it to last. And to make it last, I'm going to break it in slowly and carefully so I can get the maximum longevity from that engine.
But if you want yours shot in no time, don't break it in. It's your time and money.
All of these are things I've heard over the years, Although, I drove mine easy for the first 500 and then changed the oil. The problem is, I still have some lifters pecking at start up. I havn't figured it out yet. I dont have any advise for you, but hopefully your thread will also answer my problem. I know my oil pressure is good and there are no knocks in it, but I'm very concerned about my nice and new freshly rebuilt engine. If someone replys to this it might help you do what ever I did not.
Actually NHRA and Stock cars break their engines in an a dyno. Anyone in serious competion always has more than one engine ready and they are all broken in on a Dyno.
I don't know about the Army or Air Force but the Navy makes sure all their engines run properly also before putting them in anything.
The problem is, I still have some lifters pecking at start up. I havn't figured it out yet. I dont have any advise for you, but hopefully your thread will also answer my problem.
I had to replace the lifters in my bike,they are the same as used in a Mopar engine.
The manual said that the lifters had to be bled first by placing them in a container of kerosene and then push up and down on the plunger to bleed the lifter.
This did not work.So I had to disasemble each lifter and fill with oil and reasemble while pushing down on the checkvalve.This was a PITA but I was able to get them pumped up to 95%.
I asked a mechanic friend about bleeding lifters and he told me he soaks them in oil before installing.I cant see how this will do anything because of the mechanical parts that are inside.
Seems like the oil pump would do this automatically.
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