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break in question, new engine

1K views 16 replies 10 participants last post by  cjbilt4me 
#1 ·
i just built a new 258 and am ready to start and break it in, any recomendations?
 
#2 ·
If you haven't already, you need to break the cam in. Assuming the oil pump has been primed, fire her up, get the timing close and hold her at about 2200 RPM's for about 30 minutes (assuming there are no leaks and good oil pressure - also watch the temp). Shut her down and change the oil. Next 500 hundred miles, drive around town no more than 3000 RPM's (2500 would be better) and vary the RPM's alot, really go through the gears. Change the oil again. I wouldn't put any heavy load on for another 500 miles but you can increase the RPM's closer to normal driving. You need to watch the oil level, it might use some while the rings are seating. If after 1000 miles it's still using oil, the rings have not seated. Drive her a bit harder, red line the engine once in a while and they should seat. This is just my opinion and you will get different answers from different people.
 
#3 ·
A note on priming the oil pump. Be sure to pull the dist. run that thing up till you get oil out the top end. Use a drill to do this. It is best to connect a mechanical oil gauge. You can watch your oil pressure while your doing thes to insure there isn't any problems.
 
#4 ·
Ive never broken an engine in but Ive always been told to take a piece of cardboard and put it in front of the radiator and drive the he!! out of it to get the seals to seat. I dont know if it true or not but its what ive been told.
 
#5 · (Edited)
fourwheelhigh said:
Ive never broken an engine in but Ive always been told to take a piece of cardboard and put it in front of the radiator and drive the he!! out of it to get the seals to seat. I dont know if it true or not but its what ive been told.
Never heard of that. You shouldn't have to do anything to seat the seals. In case you meant rings, then gosupes procedure should work. No, don't block of airflow to the radiator either.
 
#6 ·
fourwheelhigh said:
Ive never broken an engine in but Ive always been told to take a piece of cardboard and put it in front of the radiator and drive the he!! out of it to get the seals to seat. I dont know if it true or not but its what ive been told.
Don't do that. Gaskets and seals seat by themselves. Blocking the rad is only going to overheat the engine, which could warp the head, if not worse.

And running the hell out of a brand-new engine can trash the cam. Break it in slowly for best longevity.
 
#7 ·
so far good info, i have already primed the engine using the drill method, and oil pressure is at 60 psi on the guage and spruting out of all push rods. Just need to do the rest.... keep it coming

thanks
 
#8 ·
hey gosupes i'm up in bellingham, ever make it up my way?
 
#9 · (Edited)
outdoordad@comc said:
Just need to do the rest.... keep it coming
Gosupes' break-in routine, posted above, will serve you well.

You may want to re-torque the head after a short while, although I had a Ford engine done a few years ago and my builder said that wasn't necessary anymore, due to better gasket materials. Ask your engine builder.
 
#12 ·
its all bull-=-=-=-= !! drive it like your going to drive it. does nascar break in parts does NHRA break in parts does the airforce ,army or other extreme machine using people break them in? nah if it going to break pick a different brand. hell even new cars unlike cars from 20 years ago don't even sugest a break in. new metals, new techquinics, closer machine tolerences
change the oil early and often in the first 5-10 k then drive it like you stole it
 
#13 ·
gumby said:
hell even new cars unlike cars from 20 years ago don't even sugest a break in. new metals, new techquinics, closer machine tolerences
change the oil early and often in the first 5-10 k then drive it like you stole it
Actually, if you look at the owners manual for many new cars, they do suggest a break-in period for longer engine and drive train life.
 
#14 ·
Does NASCAR even try to get 150,000 miles from an engine?

As for the NHRA Big-Time, they don't bother because they rebuild every engine after every run.

When I pay the money to have an engine rebuilt, I expect it to last. And to make it last, I'm going to break it in slowly and carefully so I can get the maximum longevity from that engine.

But if you want yours shot in no time, don't break it in. It's your time and money.
 
#15 ·
Lifter pecking on my new motor

All of these are things I've heard over the years, Although, I drove mine easy for the first 500 and then changed the oil. The problem is, I still have some lifters pecking at start up. I havn't figured it out yet. I dont have any advise for you, but hopefully your thread will also answer my problem. I know my oil pressure is good and there are no knocks in it, but I'm very concerned about my nice and new freshly rebuilt engine. If someone replys to this it might help you do what ever I did not.
 
#17 ·
Jeepin Guy said:
The problem is, I still have some lifters pecking at start up. I havn't figured it out yet. I dont have any advise for you, but hopefully your thread will also answer my problem.
I had to replace the lifters in my bike,they are the same as used in a Mopar engine.
The manual said that the lifters had to be bled first by placing them in a container of kerosene and then push up and down on the plunger to bleed the lifter.
This did not work.So I had to disasemble each lifter and fill with oil and reasemble while pushing down on the checkvalve.This was a PITA but I was able to get them pumped up to 95%.
I asked a mechanic friend about bleeding lifters and he told me he soaks them in oil before installing.I cant see how this will do anything because of the mechanical parts that are inside.
Seems like the oil pump would do this automatically.
 
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