[napoleoneight]

Alright, Im looking for one good tried and true engine break in procedure for a new cam and lifters (hydraulic flat tappet) Comp sent me a bottle of additive (looks basically like used motor oil, not the sort of grease paste i was expecting) So, they told me to use a heavy oil like rotax. Now my only confusion is this: do I leave the oil in after break in and drive it? or do i change the oil and filter?, also, I need to check the mesh on the distributor drive gear, anyone have any suggestions on a die or similar marking material to use on the gears? Last but not least, Im using 2 piece valve springs and am instructed to only use the outers for break in, the last time i broke this motor in i used compressed air and a home made compressor (pipe flattened at one end with a notch) to swap in the inner springs. is there a better tool to compress the springs? Preferably something i can find in the store and dont have to order?

Thanks in advance guys. (and girls)

[BESRK]

Most of your auto parts stores should have a valve spring tool. It's gonna be similar to your homemade tube tool. Single springs on the valves to limit valve train pressure.. sounds logical. Other than that, I install my cams with lots of assembly lube, slather the lifters in the same. Fire engine up, check oil pressure, bring RPMs up to about 2000 for 20 minutes while cam breaks in, change oil and drive normally.

[napoleoneight]

so should i just use the bottle of additive for assy lube? it seems a little thin to me, for some reason i recall my friend building his engine and having some sort of assy lube that looked more like a sort of purple-grey metalic looking gel. Ive also been told its a good idea to prime the lifters through the bleed hole (this seems like kind of a no brainer but it doesnt hurt to check right?)

[Mr.Crowley]

let the lifters sit in a tub of oil overnight...right side up so the air will raise out of them..Your buddy used an assembly lube with molybendum in it...