Braking power - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 05-15-2003, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
wiggs
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Braking power

i have a 1979 cj-7 and it doesnt seem to stop as good as it should i really have to stand on the brakes for them to stop. I know that because of no power brakes and big tiresz its gonna be harder but i think it shoudl stop better than it does. If anybody has any suggestions other than going to 4 wheel disc brakes i would appreciate it.
thanks wiggs

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post #2 of 11 Old 05-15-2003, 08:57 AM
dmrodco
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Sorry to break the news to you , I think you already know the answer anyway. Power disc's are the only way to get better stopping power with big tires drums without power assist is just a accident waiting to happen.....just my .2 cents worth.
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post #3 of 11 Old 05-15-2003, 09:41 AM
CSP
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Before jumping to conclusions you need to determine what kind of shape your existing brakes are in. Take the wheels off and see if the pads and shoes are in good shape. Look at the rotors and drums to see if there is any scoring. Many things could be contributing to your bad brakes. Eliminate them before deciding that they aren't adequate. My '75 on 35s will lock up the tires with stock Jeep disc/drums no problem.
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post #4 of 11 Old 05-15-2003, 10:53 AM
mxg342
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Quote:
Originally posted by CSP
My '75 on 35s will lock up the tires with stock Jeep disc/drums no problem.

Same with my old 84. I had 38's with non power brakes and it would lock the tires also. Might also want to check all of the brake lines for leaks and such

'84 CJ-7 Junkyard TBI 360/T18/D300, 4" 4WDH Lift, D44 front with ARB and HS/D44 Rear w/ Detroit, 4.56s, 36" Iroks, TFI, TJ flares, Homemade rocker guards and bumpers with swing out, Optima Yellow Top, M8000, York OBA, 6pt cage
"when you're up to your *** in alligators, it is hard to remember that your original intention is to drain the swamp"
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post #5 of 11 Old 05-15-2003, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
wiggs
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shouldi bleed the brakes? i jsut had the tires off and the rotors and drums are fine shoes are also in good shape. Im not sure what is wrong but there may be a leak or a clog somwhere that i dont know of. Any more help would help great
thanks wiggs
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post #6 of 11 Old 05-15-2003, 11:42 AM
mxg342
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This may be a dumb question but have you checked the level in the master cyl.

Bleeding the brakes is definately going to be a good decision. Although it would be rare there is a chance that air could have gotten in the lines somewhere.

'84 CJ-7 Junkyard TBI 360/T18/D300, 4" 4WDH Lift, D44 front with ARB and HS/D44 Rear w/ Detroit, 4.56s, 36" Iroks, TFI, TJ flares, Homemade rocker guards and bumpers with swing out, Optima Yellow Top, M8000, York OBA, 6pt cage
"when you're up to your *** in alligators, it is hard to remember that your original intention is to drain the swamp"
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post #7 of 11 Old 05-15-2003, 12:51 PM
majordoug
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Lightbulb slack in parking brake cable

Wiggs,
I had the same problem('84 with 31"BFGs) with having to stand on the brake. The first time I tried to launch my 18' boat, the CJ parking brake wouldn't hold the jeep on the ramp. I took it home, and checked the amount of takeup or slack in the parking brake cable, and I was able to tighten the cable almost 3/4" before the rear brakes started to catch. When I took it down from the lift, not only was the parking brake fine ( holds great on the ramp with only 2 clicks of the pedal), but I can lock up the brakes with only moderate pressure-not like power brakes, but still a whole lot safer than using all my weight! This was after I took the jeep to a brake shop to have them give the system a once-over for general safety and wear...
I'm still planning to switch out my old lines for extended stainless braided brake lines ( added a 4" Tuff Country lift), which should improve things a little more.

"84 CJ7, 258-I6,4spd man. Tuff Country 4"lift, Herc'd tub, Painless kit, 4.88s,detroit rear, 35X12.5 Cooper ATs
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post #8 of 11 Old 05-15-2003, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
wiggs
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so what ur trying to tell me is i need to check my parking brake to see if it is loose? I will bleed the brakes this weekend jsut to be sure.
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post #9 of 11 Old 05-15-2003, 08:42 PM
HighCountry
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I would also "consider" replacing the Pads & Shoes with a good quality version. So many folks ask for "the cheapest you got" when they go to the parts store and then the next owner gets to wonder why they don't work...

Bruce from West LA
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post #10 of 11 Old 05-16-2003, 08:47 AM
CSP
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Bleeding the brakes is completely unnecessary unless your pedal is spongy or goes to the floor as you're depressing the brakes. If you don't have those conditions it won't do a thing for you.

Now it still may be a good idea to bleed them to the point where all of the fluid is replaced by fresh fluid, but it still won't help in the stopping distances.

Get a service manual and learn how to adjust the rear brakes. They are supposed to be self-adjusting but about 50% of the time that feature doesn't work.

High Country has an excellent point about quality of brake pads and shoes.
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post #11 of 11 Old 05-17-2003, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
wiggs
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alright ill try that thakns guys
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