I built an 84 CJ7 and replaced the brake system completely from booster to rotors and drums and calipers...lines and hoses also with new prop valve. The only thing old is the pedal itself. I got new tires and wheel alignment and I'm getting a pulling to the right when I hit the brakes. I also replaced the steering box by the way. ANY idea on what could be the problem???? I got a Cardon steering box which I'm told is a crappy box. Could this be the cause? It doesn't have "steering memory" meaning the wheel doesn't turn back when you let go after a turn. It just stays in the turn. One other thing...I have 2" spacers on all 4 wheels. I could see that causing the memory issue but not the pulling. Any help would be great. Thanks
I'm guessing that the rears are not adjusted properly.... reason, same problem a few weeks ago after a rear brake job and when I checked them after driving and getting everything where it wanted to be I had to put almost 30 clicks in the adjusters on one side but only about 10 in the other to get it close...
Now it self adjusts properly and brakes straight as an arrow.
1982 CJ-7 2003 4.3 chevy vortec, 4L60E, Clocked Dana 300 35 x 12.5 x 15 KM2 on Cragar 399's. Vanco Brake Booster. Power steering conversion. Warn front and rear bumpers with swing away. Moser 1 piece rears. Rear OX.
Support your local MS foundation. You don't know how much this disease sucks until it affects someone you love.
I understand the toe/in/out is not right, if steering wheel will not return to straight or the steering box is too tight.
also, I had the problem on a old chevy truck, one front wheel brake would not release,
it was the inside of the front brake rubber line, from the frame over to the wheel cylinder. It had deteriorated inside and would allow the brake fluid to flow to the brake, but not return fast as it should and this action would cause that wheel to lock up and pull you to that side, when you released the brake petal.
now that was a real trip until I finally found an old chevy truck guy who knew what was wrong the first time I told him about it. new rubber brake lines and it was fixed.
I guess it could work in reverse, if the brake line would not let fluid flow to the wheel cylinder then the vehicle would pull to the side that was receiving brake fluid.
Tire pressure is fine...new tires...new brake hoses and lines so they are good. Had a wheel alignment but maybe they screwed it up. I didn't check the steering box but I guess it could be too tight. As for the rear brakes...This very well could be it as I just assumed they would self adjust. I'll have to redo that. By the way..how do I adjust the steering box? do you turn the screw IN or OUT to loosen the steering??? Thanks again
How much left to right play(engine OFF)do you have in the s'wheel?
TP is 'fine', really??? When when was the last time that YOU checked the tp?
Just cause they're new doesn't mean you don't have a leak or the tire store 'monkeys' have them even set all to the correct psi, BTDT.......
Very little if not any play in steering wheel. New gear box installed. TP is good and even all around. Toe in/out is good but I had to shim the right wheel to get the camber right. It was -.7* so I shimmed it .75* which should get it to almost 0*. The caster is at 3.2 so I'm going to shim that 4*. after that I'm at a loss as to what to do to get this thing braking strait.
Does the vehicle pull to the right (rear brakes) or the steering wheel (front brakes). Answering this question will give you an end to start at.
Things to check.
Improper shoe placement on one side (long shoe on the front)
Improper assembly (shoe hanging, return spring fell off, etc)
Brake medium contamination
Two different wheel cylinder sizes
Dragging or improperly adjusted E brake
Two of the same side auto adjusters (they rotate in different directions)
Pad on backward
Jammed or dragging caliper
Dirt or grit on the area where the caliper rides
Improperly assembled caliper retainer
Ballooned or degraded brake line
Pinched steel line
Loose wheel bearing
There are some suspension issues as well, but since you didn't state the issue was there prior to the brake job, I'm going to skip these.
Just how did you 'shim' only one side for camber
Caster is set at the factory. You have to remove the knuckles etc. to adjust it with an eccentric sleeve in the upper joint.
Sounds to me like a bent axle housing.
Have'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men
As for the brake issue....I bought this in pieces as a project jeep so I don't know what it was doing before I got it on the road. I would say the VEHICLE pulls to the right. I'm not positive though. It is only noticeable at 40 or 50 MPH and braking hard. I'll have to take the back wheels apart and double check everything.