Brake Problems HELP!!!

scottahicks · 03-02-2003, 12:40 AM

ok I had to remove a caliper to replace some studs and the genius designers at amc placed the brake hose coupler right in the way of the caliper bolt so you have to remove the hose to get it off. anyway took it off fixed the studs and put it back on,, bled that side 3 diffrent ways and the peddlle was still smushy so I went to bleed the other side and the bleeder screw was seized so i went to the parts store and got a rebuilt caliper and put it on. so now I gravity bleed both sides at the same time and then close them off and use a one man brake bleeder on both sides individualy and still after 96oz of brake fluid still no success what else am i missing here???

habman · 03-02-2003, 02:03 PM

Hey Scott,

Did you have both calipers off at the same time?

HABMAN

pontiac58 · 03-02-2003, 05:49 PM

Did you happen to push your brake pedal to the floor. In some cases, you can ruin your older master, by pushing the pedal farther then it is used to going.

Also are your bleeder screws at the top?

I dont understand why you had to take the brake line off to remove the caliper. If it was in the way a simple break the bolt loose, move the line, and retighten the bolt would have kept any air from getting in.

scottahicks · 03-02-2003, 09:29 PM

well in the response as to why you have to move the line,,, like I said before "amc placed the brake hose coupler right in the way of the caliper bolt so you have to remove the hose to get it off" the actual metal fitting that connects to the caliper totaly blocks the caliper bolt so it has to be removed. I talked to a brake mechanic today and I cam to the conclusion that next week when I have the money I will replace the master cylinder and the other caliper just for the sake of making everything new. hopefully everything works
thanks for the reply guys

CJ7Jeff · 03-02-2003, 10:08 PM

Hold on there hoss. Don't go buying parts left and right. Have you checked the brake bleeding procedure in the service manual? You have to put some sort of a clip on the proportioning valve thing to isolate the front and rear brakes.

I had the same problem on my 81 chevy pick up. If you try to bleed only one end of the brake system it won't work. I don't have a clip thing and I can't figure out how to make anything else work, so if I ever do brake work where I open the system, when it comes time to bleed them, I just empty the brake system completely, so there is no resistance from any of the other wheels, and start bleeding them from the farthest from the master cylinder(driver's side rear).

Try that first and see if it helps. Can't hurt to run fresh brake fluid through the system anyway.

03-02-2003, 02:03 PM	#2
habman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Near Flint, Michigan Posts: 187 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Hey Scott, Did you have both calipers off at the same time? HABMAN __________________ PURPLE JEEP CLUB MEMBER #0 1977 CJ-7 with all stainless hardware, fittings. hoses and lines. Glass body in fresh Imron Medium Royal Plum Purple with bright freaking yellow interior. New Tuffy Stereo Security Console New BesTop Supertop Full 8 point cage with frame ties. 33 X 12.50 Yokohama AT + II, I dumped my FRENCH made BFG's 400cid Chevy SB and 350 Turbo trans All fresh from an off frame resto summer of 02, but is it ever really finished?

03-02-2003, 09:29 PM	#4
scottahicks Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Grants Pass, OR Posts: 208 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	well in the response as to why you have to move the line,,, like I said before "amc placed the brake hose coupler right in the way of the caliper bolt so you have to remove the hose to get it off" the actual metal fitting that connects to the caliper totaly blocks the caliper bolt so it has to be removed. I talked to a brake mechanic today and I cam to the conclusion that next week when I have the money I will replace the master cylinder and the other caliper just for the sake of making everything new. hopefully everything works thanks for the reply guys __________________ If its broke I can fix it. if it isnt broke give me a minute!!! 1980 CJ5, 304 V8, flat top pistons, rv cam, quadra-jet carb, edelbrock intake, hooker headers, Purple Hornies 3" header glasspacks, Solid Driveshaft, t-176 manual 4speed, 3" body lift, 1foot extended front bumper for wrecker winch "no winch yet" 33X12.5X15 Wild Country XRT's on chrome wagon wheels, custom spray paint job, lots of rust, dents, oh and a driver that treats it like a jeep "screw the paint I can make it!" Daily Driven!!!!! Green Jeep Club member #37 Flamed Jeep Club member #1 and President

03-02-2003, 10:08 PM	#5
CJ7Jeff Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 138 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Hold on there hoss. Don't go buying parts left and right. Have you checked the brake bleeding procedure in the service manual? You have to put some sort of a clip on the proportioning valve thing to isolate the front and rear brakes. I had the same problem on my 81 chevy pick up. If you try to bleed only one end of the brake system it won't work. I don't have a clip thing and I can't figure out how to make anything else work, so if I ever do brake work where I open the system, when it comes time to bleed them, I just empty the brake system completely, so there is no resistance from any of the other wheels, and start bleeding them from the farthest from the master cylinder(driver's side rear). Try that first and see if it helps. Can't hurt to run fresh brake fluid through the system anyway. __________________ '85 CJ7 258 w/Weber Carb and Nutter Bypass. Dana 44's F&R, 3.73 gears with Trac-Loc rear. Always looking for peoples $0.02.